spudulike

I didn't take it that way and know the industry is in a state of flux with new technologies coming in to counteract the emission laws and the OEMs getting more and more protective over their industry and is a shame they don't train their people in a better way but guess with many it is learning because they are TOLD to rather than WANTING to.....big difference! Personally, I will be OK whatever occurs and this latest chapter in my life, doing what I do is an interesting one.

No offence seeing it is Christmas!

Turns out I was reading the inside of the gun son which is mpa, outside is psi and it has around 160-170 psi Oh dear, could you change your username to T*at

I like O Holy Night and Come O come Emmanuel at this time of year but if we have to bring it down, I quite like this when it came out....

Mmmm, only changed a handful of carbs over the last few years as I tend to fix them....strange that. I reckon you have solved it as a blocked gauze strainer will lean the saw down giving lack of power and poor idle.

It will help but it must have been running lean rather than rich!!! Make sure you flush your fuel tank and check your fuel can as they probably have a bit of chip inside them! Reckon it will be fine now!

I like my X27 coz I am a bit lanky but do find a ported saw gets through the knotty bits rather well and in spring time, the noodles give the birds some nesting material!

Seeing as I started my business to ease me in to an early retirement and since then have had enough work for close on seven days a week I am not approaching your "big problem" but mu success is a direct reflection on how people round here view the local dealer service. Time will tell and am not that deluded to not realise the impact the battery powered kit and fuel injected atotune kit will have on non franchised outfits that don't sell new kit.

Looks like Cash Convertors didn't know what the kit was or offer anything for it!

It is pretty obvious that OEMs want to just have their dealers doing the work on their machines judging by their reluctance on releasing IPLs, making their autotune devices unavailable to end users or non franchised companies etc etc. Most of the guys near me can't wait 3 months while the local dealer sits on their machines and then find they haven't been touched. Better to have a bloke in a shed who is focused on getting it back, working correctly and in a timely manner than a dealer prioritising all his better staff on the big stuff and putting the inexperienced on the hand tools!

This statement is pretty offensive in my opinion. It assumes that only highly experienced Stihl technicians could ever service the new complex machines. Last week I got a KM130 in that had been bounced to and fro from a "Stihl Agent". It came to me not revving out and having a list of items changed including rings, valves ground in, fuel lines, fuel filter and a "genuine Stihl carb". I don't know what was charged but it wasn't going to be cheap! Well, this "man in a shed" found that the highly trained Stihl technicians don't understand how to set the valve timing on these machines and was lucky it hadn't crunched the valves. The agent also liked to maximise profits by taking an aftermarket carb, removing the top and bottom covers/primer and putting them on the aftermarket POS making it look like an OEM carb. The only issue was the carb wasn't the issue in the first place and the aftermarket one had some issues making it damn difficult to get a good tune on it...oh, and no accelerator pump giving lag on the pickup off idle. I have two reports on one local dealer charging for work not done from my customers....not good. I am sure there are some good ones out there but some of the stuff I find is pretty appalling - MS200T, chain brake band almost through on a fully serviced £300 rebuild.....not good on a saw used up trees where injuries are damn difficult to deal with. Similar happened with cars a few years back and manufacturers were legislated to put OBD2 interface ports in their new cars!

All strato saws should be run on better quality synthetic oils, I have explained why. Red was fine when saws were of standard normal construction but now the strato saws use significantly less oil, you need a better oil. The colour makes sod all difference, it is the specifications of the oil that matters. The choice is yours, do you feel lucky.....?

Yes, that is why I keep a varied amount of gasket paper in stock. It helps fixing damaged carb gaskets and very useful to get a good squish reading.

Yank on it till your eyes water.....what were we talking about....oh yes, compression.....yank on it hard 5-7 pulls, until the needle doesn't rise any more. The first pull should make around 70-100psi on a healthy saw. The rough guide is that a hard first pull will be half of the final compression after 5-7 pulls. The 10mm adaptor will strip off around 15-20psi so bear that in mind.

The Gunson gauge is OK and fit to measure the compression of small engines unless they have changed the type of valve they use lately. You are measuring the compression with 5-7 fast pulls on the recoil handle aren't you? The results on another decent machine will be interesting. Fine dirt in the gauze filter is a common issue, probably worth flushing your fuel tank to ensure it doesn't have any chip in it and check your fuel can as well.

Crazy dude......you smooth talker! I just like to test the theory of statements I don't believe and in this case, it was a load of bowlocks - should have used a glass full of something alcoholic I wasn't proving a point, more proving that what I thought sounded a bit iffy was in fact very IFFY! 120 is well low and even when damn hot it should pull late 130s or early 140s! Cold it should be 150-170 IMO! The issue is either with the saw or the method of measurement - just need to find out which and move on!

I usually test the squish with the carbon removed and then produce a custom gasket to give optimal compression and squish clearance.

This saw has only been out for a few months, how come they have come in for work if they are still under warranty and ultra reliable???

It is very difficult to get to. The limiter, unless removed, makes cleaning it difficult as you can blast some carb cleaner down the H screw hole and this generally will help this issue and the last ditch attempt is the ultrasonic cleaner. It does sound a bit like the valve although it may be worth leaning up the L screw a bit more than usual as I find these saws don't like a rich L screw setting and do exactly what yours is doing. Take the L screw in until the revs die, take it out past the area where the revs pick up and leave it just after that for a clean pickup with no smoke and bogging - seems the mods do cause this issue and need a bit of special care on the carb setting.

Had it a few years back, the temperature went that high I wanted to take my eyes out and put them in iced water! The only time I felt ok was in bed with the heated blanket on full. Aches all over, over a week of feeling weak....see what I did?. I then finished it with a terrible cough and knocked the back out for two weeks before I sorted my core out?

Pretty agnostic on oil but am currently using HP Super. I don't do much cutting, mostly used for the last run up and tach before dispatch. Look at me as being the F1 Mercedes engine guru and the customer being Lewis! I rely on the end user for feedback, always have and have always got positive responses. The only saws I have detailed measurements on are the 372 and 357 as this was where I started.

Yes, the wonders of a muffler mod getting rid of excess heat!

Just put a genuine Stihl fuel filter on a pipe, dunked it in a glass of water and sucked, can't say it tasted great but it let more than a drop or two through.....well, a half glass before I had to stop! I really don't like these "internet facts" that aren't based on fact and go against the water and water damage I have found in carbs. Don't believe me - go try it yourself!

Old conventional non strato Autotune saws are OK on Stihl red although it isn't the best but they will work and not cause issues. All Strato Autotune type engines should be run on Semi or full synthetic oil. It is pretty simple, the new saws are designed to use the very smallest amount of fuel, two strokes lubricate all he internal bearings with the oil in the fuel used. Less fuel used means less oil getting to the bearings so the best oil will give better protection. As I said, pretty simple! But I don't know a lot about these sort of things

If the muffler has been drilled then it won't be blocked. It is worth looking at the piston through the exhaust port and seeing if it is scored - you should be able to see the horizontal turning marks still on the piston and there should be no build up of carbon encroaching on the port and closing it off. The check valve is a one way valve that stops fuel being pulled from between the main diaphragm and carb body when the saw is on idle. The fault is that this valve either stops flow in both directions causing no high speed running or flows in both directions that can cause the saw to load up at idle and get smoky and not run well at all. The valve should only allow fuel to be dragged from it by the vacuum in the carb throat causing a venture effect on it. This valve is the device that shuts the high speed fuel system off when the throttle valve is closed and allows the low speed system to work alone. I recently had a MS200T with a dodgy open check valve - symptoms were very a poor/rich idle but would rev out OK. Is your choke valve opening fully - I know it is a very simple lever. A dirty air filter would cause this issue but you have checked this. Is the plug black or tan? It is possible that the kill wire is shorting out which will cause interesting running. Have you tried a new plug as these 10mm ones can give some dodgy running issues CMR6A from memory!