spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Worth pulling the springs off the shoes to see if the actual shoe is that worn. The sprocket needs to be checked for wear, the chain brake mechanism needs cleaning, the brake guard shouldn't wobble too and forth, it should be SPRUNG using a flat spring which commonly breaks through poor cleaning. The chain catchers are often missing on these saws and also check and clean the recoil cover and rope. I do much more than this on my rebuilds but these are the relatively simple things to do.
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Just measured my vice and it is a smidge over 1m, I am 6'2" and made my bench relatively high and it has never caused me back pain and know a lower one in height would. Kitchen worktops make a good workbench, pretty solid and resilient. I have placed magnetic tool holders round mine and are useful for tools, bars, chains and stop some parts rolling off the top. I didn't bother with chairs, standing up is good for you and shifting two stone is testimony to that!
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Done three now but no vids as I live in a village where they have difficulty sharing my enthusiasm for cutting wood for the fire I believe all are happy with their kit......often it is just the lack of any follow up that proves it but have heard some positive comments from the 088 owner who is relatively local.
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That is what Kim Jong Un said when he pressed the button.....I am worried, bet Steve likes a good cheese as well
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Just make sure that the house and environment where they are is going to be where they want to be for the next 12-15 years at least as you don't want to do the work only for them to want to move or having to move down to changing circumstances in health or family/friends moving. Work out the total costs of the improvements and then work out how long they need to stay put to break even and then make a gain on the work you do - make sure you include any servicing/maintenance costs of having the work done. Don't forget that any costs incurred could have been invested and produce an income that may have given the ability to pay towards their utility bills.
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The only real comparison is to cut the same wood with the same bar and chain with the same person using the same saw before and after porting. All these factors make a difference as you can port a new saw with good as new compression or one that has seen better days plus all the factors i mention earlier can make a difference. Nice idea though and always interesting to see what people are running and who has done the work etc.
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Good thing I made that 660 a tad louder so you know when it is running, for you oldies it is a blessing
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New pistol grips-finishing advice.
spudulike replied to felixthelogchopper's topic in Woodcraft Forum
I used this stuff on my TX200 and S300 - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Birchwood-Casey-Tru-Stock-Finish/dp/B01LZG42G0 They do a number of products to darken wood and to seal up porous wood etc. One stock was beech and the other walnut, the walnut stock needed oiling and then light sanding to fill in the porous grain but turned out very nice! It is easy to apply, you just rub it in with a finger tip and will eventually build up to high gloss which can be lightly abraded with very fine wire wool if you want a more satin finish or just don't apply too many coats! -
That graph pretty much says it all and is a curve from a relatively modern coil/saw. Earlier than that, the coil had a fixed ignition advance, no "soft" ignition start like on most modern machines so the manufacturer set them to around 27 degrees as a 30 - 34 degree advance would probably break bones on start up! Two strokes need an ignition that advances rapidly and then falls off mid to high revs unlike a four stroke that advances more and more through the rev range! Anyway - the saw is set to just over 30 degrees which is slightly more than a standard 660 - been some time since I did it but that is where I believe it ended up!
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Not my favourite saw to work on for the reasons you have found!
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They are a pro saw if having a vertically split alloy crankcase, variable oil adjuster and closed port cylinder denotes a pro saw. They are heavy, old school sluggers but are strong. They may get a bit of piston slap on heavily used ones, the AV won't be up to modern machines but are a solid unit!
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That's because the food is cheaper in Lidl
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Not at all, I speak for the majority of my customers and air their views! Some may differ........
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The main trouble with the MS200T carb is the fact that no one seems to know what makes them work. There are three main issues....................etc etc, once fixed, you have a reliable saw again!
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Yup, a bit of porting and a muffler mod gets them going as I am sure Cutter Sy and AndyT will verify!
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Looks like some powdered shyte that replaces proper food like veg, spuds and meat!
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They seem pretty good saws, spin up pretty fast and port well. Their main weakness seems to be the oiler worm and the chain brake hinged link that the stud gets worn pretty quickly. Other than that, they punch pretty hard!
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Very exciting, wonder how long it will last in forestry or everyday real world use!
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One of these valved engine Stihl strimmers
spudulike replied to Baldbloke's topic in Maintenance help
The compression usually goes up if the valve clearance is too great. There is a reason for this but I won't bore you with it! -
I think the early 201s were that bad, the later Mtronic one seemed much better as many forgot how good the MS200T was. Most of my customers love the MS200 best with the Mtronic MS201 being second best. I am not a climber but find the MS200T has the most aggressive performance of them all!
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Not on holiday but mad busy. Yes, oil pumps can wear, there can be gloop in the bottom of the tank, the oil pickup filter can be blocked, the oil pump feed and outlet can be partially blocked, the bar oil holes can be blocked or the feed to the bar mount can be plugged....oh, and the worm can be stripped! It is usually easier to clean and inspect every part and if that doesn't do it, buy a new pump!
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Just the thing for cutting the harder cheese at the next dinner party!
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You may like to tell him that you are operating within the law and the council have found no issues with your set up so he should go and sod off but life is too short to build wars with others especially those people who live closest to you and in these sorts of disputes, it isn't the way it starts but the way it ends so just affirm your position and let him wallow in his own bile!
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Could be a carb or fuel line issue but it may be the mechanism that holds the throttle open when starting. As said before, the clutch and drum are a big issue on most but the very latest versions of this saw and get pissed off with replacing them but it is worth checking that the drum and bearing are OK.
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Mtronic or conventional carb?
