spudulike

Nice Mac, the sap sounds like bio oil....spawn of Beelzebub.

And that's the way it goes sometimes, hopefully the next five on the bench will go smoothly and make up for one saw that just saps time. Been there and sympathise!

At this rate, the saw will be completely OEM Had a 372 set to over 14200 once, pulled like a train but wasn't very standard

As ADW said, the autotune likes a perfect engine and doesn't take wear and tear as a friend. Expect any wear in the engine to cause idling issues like this. It is a shame you cant raise the idle speed but guess it will breach the emissions the machine is certified to produce....give me a standard carb any day! If the machine marks on the piston have smoothed then it is usually best just to fit a new piston as the saw is a bit of a bitch to strip down in my humble opinion!

The saw had been serviced by me about a year ago and had tached it, found it to be over revving, pulled the limiter, backed it down and then re-tached it at around 12500. It than came back as the owners employee had not put the clutch e clip back on correctly and the clutch had grenaded. It was tached again and OK and after repair, even with the bar off, it didn't over rev so know it wasn't down to that. This work was months ago, one of the lower window supports has a crack in it and the crown has a fine crack running up the shattered skirt and across the crown that looks slightly older but with no signs of impact or poor piston stop use The piston was in good shape and the machine is also. I reckon the skirt shattered and it took out the strato flange - I had always wondered what damage would occur if this let loose - I know now! It may be a casting flaw, one of the lower skirt supports has a very slight honeycomb look about it and it is possible the piston just cracked - not a nice one but hope there are no little hidden surprises - worth a punt on a relatively cheap repair on a very decent ground saw.

Had a MS461 in from a long standing local customer, it felt like the crank had failed or there was a big piston issue. Took a look down the plug hole with the customer there and the crown of the piston looked cracked to me Had the machine apart and either the strato flange had busted shattering the piston or the piston skirt had shattered taking out the flange but it was a BIG mess. The screws were still in there and tight so the flange hadn't come loose. All the debris was cleared, the bore looked OK, no indentations in the squish band or ports and the crank ends were straight, the big end looked OK and the rod was incredibly straight. Fitted a new piston and flange and the saw now runs, am hoping there are no hidden nasty surprises that time will unleash but a risk worth taking.

Never seen one of these fuel tank screws break, more common on the recoil cover. Sounds like all is good now, simple fix.

Unless the OP is dragging his Einhell up Ben nevis, I think altitude in the UK doesn't come in to this issue! Thought you had become a Trappist Monk!

Ya bloody big member

There is a small window of time when both the ring and cylinder are relatively rough. Run it hard for shorter periods of time to get the two friction surfaces bedded in quickly.

Now he is calling us members - isn't a member another name for a blokes appendage.....i.e. cock

You would need to remove the top handle and fuel tank. The biggest issue with removing them is keeping the drill central to the broken screw and not drifting off in to the softer alloy. It won't be great leaving it like it is but the saw will still function OK and be safe. The lack or screws may put stress on the remaining ones and these could break! You may be able to cut a slot in the screw with a Dremel cut off bit causing little damage to the alloy and use a screwdriver on them. Just depends on how flush with the flats the broken screw is.

Masterity New one on me....I wouldn't expect this damage to create any running issues!

er... it is in the name...a pump...pumps and a meter.....well it meters out fuel in the correct amount! In a saw, the fuel is typically held below the carb. Liquid doesn't run well upwards so the saw uses the positive and negative pressure of the crankcase to pump the fuel upwards in to the carb by use of a pumping diaphragm in the carb.

The impulse line carries the positive and negative pressure in the crankcase in to the carb that moves a pump diaphragm (not the metering one) up and down to pump fuel in to the pump section of the carb and is then allowed in to the metering section once fuel is depleted in the metering section allowing the nipple on the metering diaphragm to push on the metering arm thus opening the needle valve allowing fresh fuel in to the metering section of the carb. How does that description grab ya? The OP still has a dodgy Chinese saw though!

I know a trainer in this area - don't know if he could be of help?

eh

Klebfest

It isn't because you may have an iPhone using the same account and it is Apple making sure both devices are yours?

I think this thread was better dead and buried than resurrected like it is now!

I have had quite a few gearboxes in bits and normally you find various bearings have failed. The HL135 bearings in the shaft clamp section go and the grease takes on a silvery hard compacted composition and the inner races get very loose. In the trimmer part, the con rod rollers fall out causing issues and you then get the main gear pinion shaft bearings failing - the rollers get caught in the gears and can make bearings fail or gears get damaged. The grease may be grey and hard or just not there as it has been forced out over time. My thinking is if you are re-greasing regularly, the new grease will tend to shift the old grease about so it doesn't go hard and old. I would think a yearly pre seasonal service would be a good idea, one where all old grease is purged and new introduced then follow the 25hr or once a week system (if the unit is used daily) to keep the parts in good shape.

My ethos is that any grease is better than no grease. Most gearboxes get knocked out by not greasing - the manufacturers recommendation is every 25 hrs and that isn't a great deal of time. I personally use a big tin of Lithium based grease rather than spending out silly amounts of money on little tubes of ...........! Regular greasing is the answer and doesn't often get done and remember to do ALL the greasing points including the one on the shaft clamp!

Unfortunately, it is the modern way, a very small percentage of people who actually know what they are doing and the rest blagging it and making out they are the dogs Bs

I gather that the Spice Girls are reforming but alas, not with Posh.....they are like a bad case of Foot and Mouth in their reoccurrence

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