spudulike

It is pretty simple, if you fit a reasonable stove and pay for commercially dried and split wood, you are unlikely to save money. If you get a stove fitted and you are prepared to find, cut and stack free firewood or have a way to get firewood/timber for no payment or beer money cost and process it yourself then fill your boots. I have dragged the ditches after storms and more latterly relied on contacts in my business to drop excess wood off and have done repairs for firewood before, it all works and makes for cost saving, I am not sure I would bother if I didn't have access to a decent supply of timber. Oh - don't turn your nose up to any timber, it all burns and gives off heat!

In for a penny........ Last time I looked it was....... B) The MS 661 C-M

Don't forget to plug the impulse line as well. A suitable nail works for me!

The 395 is pretty much bullet proof, similar to the MS660, rock solid construction and rarely have serious issues on both!

Rope works well if you know what you are doing and what the risks are and what to do if it goes wrong.

You can use some recoil rope but go carefully as some get it stuck in the ports so the piston needs to be close to the top of its stroke! It isn't a difficult job if you know your way around small engines and have a bit of mechanical knowledge.

125psi sounds low but will depend on what a well running machine registers on your gauge. Other then a worn or nipped up piston, it may be a split fuel line or carb issue but check out that compression again.

Relatively easy if you are mechanically minded, almost impossible if you are an Iphone, jelly brained teenager!

You have a bit of rust in your clutch....that's clutch not crutch which is something completely different. You will need to strip it down and strip the clutch, clean off the clutch, apply a bit of grease or copper slip and reassemble. Be OK for a good while then.

Very true but what is the reason why it's doing it ?? Any one from husqvarna on here?? I would say they know about it and may not know why it is happening...call me cynical

From what I have seen, they pull pretty hard and are made reasonably well so don't feel too bad. There is a hinged link in the brake mechanism, a bit like the MS200 one and reckon that is why the recall - have seen a few that are a bit dodgy.

Probably that pivot pin that is always failing on the 7900 but don't know for sure.

Either the saw has partially seized or it has a fuelling issue such as split fuel line or shyte in the gauze strainer. It may be something else but these would be my first thoughts.

That's about 4.4HP - pretty high output!

Simple, fit the boot and clamp then stick a permanent marker pen down the boot to block it!

Yes as you have an extra void to fill within the adaptor so the compression will never read as high through when using one.

I think you are on the wrong forum, try Mumsnet.com , I think they discuss this sort of thing on there!

That 661 looks low to me, most well used saws will pull 150, lightly used ones around 170 but will depend on altitude and the gauge being used. The small gauge does knock a fair bit off and can be misleading, I tend to get around 20psi drop using it - the reason is that the void in the adaptor has to be filled with air before the meter starts reading so in effect, makes the combustion chamber volume bigger and lowers the reading.

I reckon a GSX1100 engine on an Allen Scythe may get this Simon fella a little worried

The most difficult thing to do in life is to get on the first rung where you get financial stability and a roof over your head. The thing I would recommend him to do is to look at what to do with any spare capital as any decent business will generate a bit, some or lots and doing the hours he is, he will hopefully get there and fast. Some would do property and think he has already mentioned this, some do the equity markets etc but the biggest thing you can do is to start as young as possible, do the hours you can, make the most £££ you can and MAXIMISE how the money you make performs and grows. Compound interest/growth is your friend, keep the profits pilling back in to purchasing more investments for that will make a reasonably well off man richer than his less well educated peers. I was a bit like Stefan, did 70hr weeks in my 20s when I could and 30 years flies by but if you are clever then it will make you relatively well off but do look after your relationships, I got pretty grouchy, tired and stressed - good luck, hope it works out for you.

Being positive is all well and good but you can't blindly ignore the fact that some negative things may happen in your life and you will need to plan for them otherwise you run the risk of taking some hard knocks in your life and being totally unprepared. I thought my days of 70hr weeks were tough, 126hrs is no life and unless you have a 5-10 year plan where you work like a dog and can then implement an exit strategy to enjoy the rest of your life, you won't keep it up and you will find it difficult to keep your loved ones around you and your health in a good state.

Like sticking an OS map on the top of the saw? Does it make it go faster?

Well I guess your mate knows the Husqvarna Software development engineers then as there is no way to "Remap" the autotune as some seem to think there is.

If you can go PCP, coming from springers, it was a revelation, with a silencer they make no noise and have no kick making them damn accurate. I would say .22 for the kick on your target or .177 for penetration, I usually use the .22 for rats but that is the PCP so is just the weapon of choice - 25 yards seems a bit lame on full legal power! The forums are a good place to trade - I got an Air arms PCP from Gunmart for a bargain price and is worth a look.

Well that smells of BS to me. I love the way some hide behind the technology like it has some sort of magical ability that mere mortals just can't understand or comprehend. About all they can do is apply the latest firmware, it will run on all previous firmware if matched with the auto tune/coil correctly. They can reset the saw back to default if major work has been done on the saw, view fault codes or do some very basic tests and that is about it. The actual auto tune program or the saws OS can't be changed like the dealer is saying! The basic spark, compression and fuel tests are still very valid, even on the latest machines! The fact it will run for a few seconds after priming shows that the carb isn't able to pull the next charge of fuel in to the carb. I would suspect that the metering arm is a little low, the needle valve is stuck or the diaphragm isn't able to exert the correct force on to the metering arm to allow fuel in to the metering part of the carb........ possibly the carb pump solenoid has failed and that is able to be easily tested!