spudulike

Good luck with that. I can imagine their staff meetings discussing what they see as an insurmountable problem for something you may have done a hundred times before. I guess if the time gets close, they will have to weigh up the perhaps increased costs of getting the tree felled by another, the risks if it falls over or drops a bough and hurts a pupil if left in situ (not knowing the health of the tree), the risk of you doing the job etc If you can't get clearance then perhaps getting another on site with the magic qualification will do it and just stick the extra cost on the quote......customer always pays!

If you have been using a poor oil, it could be the muffler hole is blocked - easy one to check if it is a later model with a removable outlet cowl.

It is in the carb and is where the high speed fuel enters the carb throat before entering the manifold - usually brass!

Erm....the last MS260, MS460 and MS660 I did had new seals fitted and .....well I thought they had the seal pushed in to the bearing!

I don't know much about two strokes but thought that the scavenging bit happened on the downward stroke and is the releasing of the exhaust gases caused by combustion just after the piston clears the top of the exhaust port and completed by the lowering piston releasing combustion chamber pressure and producing positive pressure in the lower crankcase pushing fuel and air through the transfers and scavenging the exhaust out of the exhaust port! The heat in the crankcase is surely transferred heat from the piston and cylinder and not the exhaust gases - the only reason you would have exhaust gasses in the crankcase would be blow-by from the rings and piston leaking at combustion.

The 560 and 550 are "skinny" due to the fact the transfers being situated at the front of the saw making the cylinder thinner - like the MS461!

The seals can be changed on the 560 without splitting the crankcases and these seals in bearings are commonly used on the 560XP, 576XP, 590XP, MS660, MS260, MS650, MS460, MS440, 346XP, 550XP etc etc! They are all removable and can be replaced without removing bearings or splitting cases!

The 150 and 201 are a bit weird like that. They don't tend to react like a typical carb! It may be a dirty air filter or dirt in the check valve holding it open!

References from past jobs, do you have a portfolio of past work?

Right - 120PSI is well below the 150+ I would expect. Check the gauge out on a working saw and see what it pulls. Hones - Damn, been doing it wrong for years, I need to recall hundreds of machines.....bollocks!!! The stones are better in closed transfer cylinders but do the job in my limited experience I have recently had a failure in a similar way, my diagnosis was that the bottom ring had seized and the top ring had stayed loose and continuing to run the saw had put a very slight cavity up the bore where the stuck ring had taken microns off the bore in one specific area. My fix was a new P&C kit and it worked. I could see from the new piston that the rings were not worn in one small area, inspection of this area showed the hone had missed this part of the bore due to this vertical channel of wear.

It's in the name isn't it Rich

When you say it splutters and stops are we talking about when it is left idling the revs slow and die or during heavy cutting, it dies? If you leave it idling on its side and loosen the fuel cap, will it continue to run OK. Have you reset the autotune by cutting hard and continuously for 5 minutes? If you go from snedding to heavy cross cutting, the autotune will have set itself to lighter high rev use and then need time to reset to heavy cutting. May be worth looking at the piston through the exhaust port or put a gauge on it to measure the compression.

Damn, thought it may have been some sort of attrition normalizer, Brexit needs you!

What's an "Atronought" Stubby....new one on me

Got a few customers using them, some in forestry. Pretty robust, well made saws. Parts not too bad to get hold of and spool up and cut fast.

The spine is like a tall pile of jenga blocks (or is it a box of chocolates....Forest Gump). Pretty wobbly without any support and doesn't take much to knock one or two out. Building up your core strength is like adding muscle and fibre around this wobbly pile of blocks and stops them moving and makes the whole construction a lot stronger. I used to barely be able to walk after two days on the bench fixing saws. Slow walking round shops would kill it as would raking leaves and any heavy lifting. I would either get the knife like pain in the lower back or sciatica, never good. I am long in the body and over 6', bad backs are in my genes. A few years back I wanted to get rid of a bit of mid belly fat and started at 10 sit-ups a night and regularly do 30. I didn't shed any fat, doing repair work full time made me shed 2 stone but the almost immediate effect I did notice was that standing up at a bench was now fine, no Ibuprofen after two days, no pain and I haven't had a bad spasm for years. All backs are different but many are just not aware of how important core strength is and what it can do for you. You can be physically fit but core strength may still be poor. Try doing the plank or lift your legs up straight whilst lying on the floor, if you flag out quick and bits ache afterwards then it may help. It may help you and fully endorse ...... no change = same result so you need to change something in your work method, approach, industry to fix it - not easy but good luck.

Depends what I am doing but the 346XP takes some beating. I don't do much cutting, too busy fixing and porting others kit.

And the legal guys are often the only ones to come out of these disputes smiling!

Not sure TBH but if the one you have works, fits and seems OK then that is probably the best option. You could recover the missing friction material on the existing clutch but anything more than you have done is going to cost you more. I sold a real good one for £60 and they are a bit passed their best now and show their age.

If they are out and about, a good PCP air rifle will take them out effectively. Shoot a little lower than the ears head shot as this should dispatch them effectively. Other than that, if they are facing you then between the eyes and ears and through the body works well. Body shots are generally not good enough unless you have a 12 bore! I have used poison a year or two ago and it did work but be careful nothing else can eat the poison. I now only get one or two after the bird food in the winter. If you are over-run, a Jack Russell is as good as it gets, they will take them on the nape of the neck and shake violently and just go at them one after the other - awesome ratters!

I did have a couple of these and both are long gone now. Stick your helmet, defenders, all your PPE on and then rev the bejesus out of it through some big wood. If that new clutch isn't ragingly hot and smoking and the side cover hasn't burst with bits of clutch hitting it after 10 minutes use then you probably have your solution. If you can't find an original unit then hopefully, the MS200t one you have will do the job. Looks like the same diameter and it has spun on OK so run it without the dust cover and nut that was originally fitted and see what happens.

From the IPL, you have two clutches, one with friction material, a dust cover and a nut on the end and the other which looks like it is just spun on and needs no cover etc. The later part without the cover is 1120 160 2003. The older friction covered clutch with the cover should have the cover put on with the inner domed part against the clutch and not like you have fitted it. The part you have fitted, looks like the clutch from the 020T/MS200T which is part 1129 160 2000 but can't be 100% sure but that is how it looks to me. The part you have fitted should work OK, it isn't designed to fit to that saw but as long as the thread is the same, it spins on in a anti clockwise direction and is the same outer diameter, it may be a workaround but don't come back if it fails, grenades or does damage!!! The friction covered clutch has the cover to stop the dust coming out. Modern clutches don't need a cover as others have said.

Looks like an insurance claim off your credit card or Paypal then. Hope your friend gets their money back.

They may get the joke now

The clutch won't undo when the brake is put on, it may spin off if the clutch is not on tight and you rev the saw then throttle off fast - seen it mostly on 357XPs and 346XPs mostly. Jamming the brake on does it up! Your 261 clutch had undone locking the drum to the retaining washer and e clip.