spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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You will need to match the depth, height and diameter of the ring for it to fit. The depth is dictated by the depth of the groove in the piston. The height is the vertical height of the groove of the piston and the diameter is self explanatory. If you meet these, it will fit. Finding out the info is the hardest part but am sure other rings will fit your piston. The aftermarket rings can be a bit hard and brittle, the circlips can also be pretty crap!
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Well one thing I remember is a member called MattyF asking for help from Arbtalk for an ex sub mariner he knew that had busted his back trying to fell a tree at around 80 years of age. Well, a shed load of members turned up working for free and did the job which shows the spirit of the members at that time - some are still on here! I wonder if he did the same again, the response would be the same! Yes Stubby, showing my age! Guess things are changing.
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Personally, what gets me is members with one post, asking for the world and when you give them a solution to their issues and save them lots of time and money, haven't the decency to thank you, give you feedback on the advice or stay around to add to the Arbtalk Forum and its content. BTW - not having a go at any one specific person on this!!! There are still a lot of members with 1000+ posts and many with decent knowledge of their specific industry or skill but many evaporated when the site format changed and never came back or generally got fed up with the site becoming a soap box for political issues or just generally flaming controversial views. Shame as it seemed to have more of a community spirit a few years back!
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Of course it is, most of the long term Arbtalk members don't post anymore and the rest just seem to have a go at new members!
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These plates don't "fall off", as said earlier, it is behind the handle where it mounts to the crank-case just behind the clutch cover.
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If it has been rebuilt with a new bottom end then the plate won't be on it. The serial can be found by plugging it in to the autotune PC interface and getting a print out from it. The dealer that rebuilt it may have the serial number logged!
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If it won't idle it probably has an issue on the low speed circuit of the carb. I would check the gauze strainer as it is the most common culprit on carb issues but generally effects the high speed running than low. It is worth removing the low screw and getting some carb cleaner down its hole but ensure you wind it in and note the number of turns otherwise you will have other issues! Worth ensuring the piston is OK but most issues on kit are carb issues.
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Never snapped one and I do them up pretty tight....actually tighter than tight TBH. I have seen the base snap due to the crankcases being slightly uneven and stripped a thread once but not had too many other issues. It may just be a dodgy batch of bolts, it does happen in manufacturing.
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Unsurprising you were correct. Sticky/bend metering arm. Changed it for another one I had, adjusted height. Working well now. Oh damn, will whack myself with a wet halibut 100 times as penance for being a smug sod! Glad it focused your fixing potential
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Impulse issue or metering arm height most likely!
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Make your own, I have done quite a few when stuck and need a fix on a hard to find gasket. Liquid gasket would work if the gap isn't too large but JB weld dries too hard, a bit of flex is needed in a gasket otherwise vibration and heat expansion will damage the seal a hard epoxy will give.
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Make sure the crank bearings are OK, it is three generations old!
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Life doesn't get more exciting than this. Snail racing starts tomorrow!
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L&S will have them in stock!
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I would rather work on manky saws than stone cutters, that dust gets everywhere!
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I sprayed it with a bit of perfume as someone said you would like it, can't remember who! I will need the bar and chain - just get a wine box from your local supermarket or off-licence.
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Surprised you can manage a 201 with your limp wrist
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Just responded on the other thread, text me when you have it boxed, will get it set up again and give it a thrash to make sure I have sorted it .
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How the hell did you know, I blame the poundland shower gel!
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Send it in again, will get it pressure and vacuum checked then boil the carb and get it reset. I have seen a few of these Echos have some strange carb issues, almost like the carb wasn't quite matched too well with the saw but have also sorted most of the issues one way or another! Text me once boxed and will let you know when to get it in. Probably needs a bit of sushi!
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Not being funny, you do flip the choke on and then off to get the saw in to the "fast idle...start" position when starting hot? While on the subject, if you put the choke on, take it off and then open the throttle (not trying to start it), do you get a slight click noise as you pull the throttle? This should be the fast idle clicking off and back to normal idle. Not recommended but it works - if the saw isn't starting when warm or hot, don't give it any more than 3 pulls on full choke, hold the throttle fully open and pull the saw over hard with no decomp, this is a bit "redneck" but it does get the saw going - not one for the rule book though!
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I am sorry but I don't think I know who you are, I have no idea what you are talking about and don't know why you should be offended. I was commenting more on people who become experts from seeing a small facet of information on the web rather than actually working through why something is designed in a certain way through fit, form and function and then applying a logical conclusion to repair it. If you want to work on your saws, fill your boots, work on others, work on whatever you wish to, no issue with me, I don't give a monkeys chuff, have a nice life. Move on!
