spudulike

The most difficult thing to do in life is to get on the first rung where you get financial stability and a roof over your head. The thing I would recommend him to do is to look at what to do with any spare capital as any decent business will generate a bit, some or lots and doing the hours he is, he will hopefully get there and fast. Some would do property and think he has already mentioned this, some do the equity markets etc but the biggest thing you can do is to start as young as possible, do the hours you can, make the most £££ you can and MAXIMISE how the money you make performs and grows. Compound interest/growth is your friend, keep the profits pilling back in to purchasing more investments for that will make a reasonably well off man richer than his less well educated peers. I was a bit like Stefan, did 70hr weeks in my 20s when I could and 30 years flies by but if you are clever then it will make you relatively well off but do look after your relationships, I got pretty grouchy, tired and stressed - good luck, hope it works out for you.

Being positive is all well and good but you can't blindly ignore the fact that some negative things may happen in your life and you will need to plan for them otherwise you run the risk of taking some hard knocks in your life and being totally unprepared. I thought my days of 70hr weeks were tough, 126hrs is no life and unless you have a 5-10 year plan where you work like a dog and can then implement an exit strategy to enjoy the rest of your life, you won't keep it up and you will find it difficult to keep your loved ones around you and your health in a good state.

Like sticking an OS map on the top of the saw? Does it make it go faster?

Well I guess your mate knows the Husqvarna Software development engineers then as there is no way to "Remap" the autotune as some seem to think there is.

If you can go PCP, coming from springers, it was a revelation, with a silencer they make no noise and have no kick making them damn accurate. I would say .22 for the kick on your target or .177 for penetration, I usually use the .22 for rats but that is the PCP so is just the weapon of choice - 25 yards seems a bit lame on full legal power! The forums are a good place to trade - I got an Air arms PCP from Gunmart for a bargain price and is worth a look.

Well that smells of BS to me. I love the way some hide behind the technology like it has some sort of magical ability that mere mortals just can't understand or comprehend. About all they can do is apply the latest firmware, it will run on all previous firmware if matched with the auto tune/coil correctly. They can reset the saw back to default if major work has been done on the saw, view fault codes or do some very basic tests and that is about it. The actual auto tune program or the saws OS can't be changed like the dealer is saying! The basic spark, compression and fuel tests are still very valid, even on the latest machines! The fact it will run for a few seconds after priming shows that the carb isn't able to pull the next charge of fuel in to the carb. I would suspect that the metering arm is a little low, the needle valve is stuck or the diaphragm isn't able to exert the correct force on to the metering arm to allow fuel in to the metering part of the carb........ possibly the carb pump solenoid has failed and that is able to be easily tested!

Have you reset it according to the owners manual? Not had to on the ones I have done but.......there you go!

Just drop the base gasket, the extra compression makes up for the shift in timing figures!

Sounds like a lifestyle choice to me

That motorised scythe would have had it if the old boy had kept it going. Swap the engine out for a 30HP kart engine, that should do it!

I will give it a go. You get better strimming with a good length line so you just need to get the engine going as well as it can and then experiment in thick grass with different length/thickness line. I am wondering if a head with four lines would improve the cutting over two!

How about sticking a 1m hedge trimmer on a pole - should be effective or does it have to be a strimmer? Lawnmower on a tractor - flame thrower

We had this discussion a while ago, firstly, it is NIKASIL and the emery will have similar abrasives to a hone - Silicon Carbide/Carborundum and you simply do the work and then clean thoroughly with solvent and compressor. Anyone who says this can't be done - go talk to the guys I have rebuilt seized saws for still using them years afterwards! I have used emery paper on localised damage and to smooth bevels, the hone will give a nice finished surface but don't go too mad, an engine doesn't take a view to how it looks but does note how well mating surfaces join together.

I rarely sell machines I have refurbished but have been working on a 2009 MS460 that has been stood up for the last five years after being lean seized. You can see the original piston in one of the photos! I have done some porting on this saw, the muffler hasn't been modded although it could be and the ignition has been advanced a little. It now has a Meteor piston in it, the cylinder is fine and compression is very healthy. The saw has been pressure and vacuum checked, the carb has been stripped and checked and it is very clean. It won't be going at a bargain price as it now owes me a bit but if you are looking at a saw that will pull like a train and keep you in business then PM me for a price.

Just caught up, you should be looking at the most powerful option out of the box and then port, muffler mod and use a head with extra long thick lines. I say this as you will need to keep the thing bang on the powerband and cut as much as you possibly can - perhaps make a special head with wire cable lines so you are less likely to loose one and cock up your chances. Failing that - drive a steel stake in to the scythes path - he won't be so chipper when he hits it

Possibly someone using a piece of wire to unblock the holes and piercing the membrane

Looks OK from what I can see.

I would guess Poundland or Primark

I was saying to measure the ring in different areas around its circumference to compare the thickness but was trying to say the thickness between the outer surface that contacts the bore and the inner that butts up to the bottom of the piston groove and not the height of the ring as if you laid it flat on a table! Ring wear will give too much end gap and will effect compression. Nikasil can wear due to ingress of fine woodchip, seen a few but not common.

Don't know what you are doing to them, I have found one or two get blocked and you get a vacuum in the fuel tank but it is pretty rare and the breather assembly is used on most Stihl equipment albeit with the pipe connector on the back on the MS200T.

A new cylinder and piston will give 170 - 180, a reasonably well worn cylinder will give 150 and is a little low but acceptable. Dropping to 125 is a bit low but probably OK for now, it is normal to get a 20psi drop cold to hot. Ported, it will pull 200 - 220psi due to dropping the base gasket!

No typo on my side???

I thought the breather was located firmly under the air filter back plate to the left of the carb and there is no way the item can be damaged and was unlikely to leak but what do I know!

You can put the rings in the bore and measure the end gap plus measure the ring thickness/depth (where it contacts the bore and the inner surface) in different areas of the ring to check for wear then replace if necessary. I would try to fit a Meteor piston or a complete top end if the bore is worn - they typically fail near the inlet port! If the rings are significantly worn then fill your boots!

Adjust the tappets, they always lose their setting!