spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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You can tune the carb a bit more if you like but you need to have a good feel for it as you can really cock things up if you deviate from the normal settings - these are one turn each on both screws, the little bit more ensures correct starting, idle and flat out revs as a little lean can cause issues with poor starting (L screw) and seizure (H screw) Just leave the plug as is, put an hour or two on the saw and see what colour it is - light to dark tan is fine, black means you will need to lean up the high screw a little but go VERY carefully as too lean will make the saw go pop. Glad you sorted it, looks like I may know what I am up to after all
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I would just set the carb to around 1&1/8th turn out on each screw and adjust the idle to be normal without the chain spinning. If limiters are fitted then just turn the L screw fully out and leave the H screw as is. If this doesn't solve it, you should try the internal carb gauze strainer as it can get clagged up with woodchip. If the diaphragms are OK and the strainer is OK, then it may be one of the issues I mentioned which will be the next step. Always difficult to find an issue without seeing the body!
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Just read back through the thread, it is a Husky 350....not a bad saw but can have issues. The impulse connector on the inlet manifold/boot tends to split or get squashed when being rebuilt by the inexperienced. Also, the saw can get air leaks where the cylinder mount meets the engineered plastic bottom end. The plastic tends to warp and cause leaks, you can usually tell when doing a leak down test.
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Seems a bit excessive writing off a saw with a good crank and top end!
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Go careful on leaning the H screw as it can seize the saw. Only do it if your sparkplug looks jet black and not if the plug is tan in colour!
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That stalling is probably the L screw being a bit lean, the H screw too rich making the saw load up under load or a bit of an air leak.
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Yup, they were going the wrong way
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Teslas financials looked a bit dodgy. From the press, it said they were in the process of asking for early payment on orders not yet delivered to keep the company in the black and out of the red!
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illustrated parts list!
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Got a tub of Taylors of Bond Street shaving soap and a brush. My preconceptions were that all the talk of expensive grooming products was a load of balls but after using it for one day, my face post shave was very noticeably less dry, red and "abraded" and at the end of the day, it is smoother and feels softer so am actually quite impressed. I think much of the art is in re-lathering after each pass and that really seems to work. My first attempt with the new safety razor wasn't great but wasn't using the new soap and was still in cartridge mode rather than using less pressure! Time and experience will tell!
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I believe that you have answered your own question! Either buy the tool or make one yourself. I am guessing you know it has a left hand thread?
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One of my customers is running one but says his ported old style 372 is keeping up with it with ease but there you go! Oh - heavy forestry work so no light domestic work either!
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Poor starting can be the L screw too weak and worth checking the metering arm height as sometimes the diaphragms settle and leave the needle just on the verge of opening when it should be firmly closed. Guess the fuel line and filter are fresh.......not read the complete thread!
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Officially it was a Black and Decker Electric but first petrol one - Stihl 009 and still have it! From small things......
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Been porting and servicing a 346XP 45cc this weekend, nearly got it finished and to my surprise, found another faulty manufactured OEM Husqvarna carb elbow. The tank breather pipe is pushed on to a union just below where the air filter pushes on to. This union should have a hole straight through to the inside of the union and had previously found a faulty one on Stubbies 346XP after he had years of poor running. This one is 2006 so am amazed no one hasn't thrown it in the village pond but there you go - a damaged plastic mould tool and no tests on ensuring the hole is clear......and nobody found it until now!
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Your mate has $8m invested in Bitcoin? When did he buy in - at the beginning I would guess and think I would have sold out just before Christmas if I were worth that much!
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Damn, what is one to do, I wonder what the repair shops do??? Looks like your sockets have big round lips on the end of them, not good for shallow hexes like this......how about getting a cheap socket and grinding the rounded lips off so it has square ends and grips that shallow hex head down to the base....now that would be a good idea - I may have even done that on a few sockets
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Just put a bit of recoil rope in the plug hole and use a socket and wrench on it spinning it off clockwise as previously mentioned, should be easy for a man with your gargantuan talents Anyone saying "don't use rope".......sod off
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So much for the "easy start" and "reliable...." it sounds like the low speed fuel circuit isn't delivering, you will need to find the fuel adjustment screws, there will be two of them and a much larger one which is the idle screw. The two close together - possibly marked "H & L" are the cookies, find the one closest to the engine and give it a 1/4 turn anti clockwise and see what that does for you. You may have to increase the idle a bit but that is normal. If you don't understand this then there is no hope and either take it to someone who does, give up and buy a major brand saw or purchase another of these dodgy imports. A Stihl 181 or small Husqvarna may be a prudent choice!
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I have been using the Hydro 5 for a good while and get cartridges off ebay for around £1.50 each which is about as low as it goes and make them last around a month but they do get a bit scratchy after 2 weeks but I do get a decent shave. Anyway .....damn Arbtalk, I read this thread again and now have a long handle Edwin Jagger DEL89 on order and will see what a quality English razor and traditional blade can do for me. I sort of think shaving is a PITA but also like the pampering and preparation etc.....when I have time. It will be interesting to see what the differences are, the blades are much cheaper and will be able to bin them when they go off and know the thing isn't costing a fortune but there we go, next weeks experiment.
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MAKITA’S 18V LXT BRUSHLESS POWER CUTS WHEELBARROW EFFORT
spudulike replied to Steve Bullman's topic in General chat
Looks like a bit of overdesign to me, it would be better to design one where the wheel is closer to the middle of the loading fulcrum so it didn't take so much effort to lift it. The single wheel design is such that it allows the barrow to be steered around corners more easily then a two wheeled version......well that's my opinion! I think modern man has become a bit whimpish and baulks at a bit of heavy lifting - think I would man up rather than spend £700 on a barrow! -
I think a lot of modern saws are on the edge of being lean purely to meet the environmental specs. I find a lot of 361, 461 etc running well over max revs with the limiters in place so am having to remove them, undoing the H screw by 1/3rd turn and refitting them just to get the saw back in to safe levels. I am sure the autotune saws are running close to the edge for the same reasons.
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We had one over the house whilst I was on the summer house roof cutting the hedge around the garden, the wife must have asked me three times what it was and I kept shouting "P51 MUSTANG", nice noise It will be out of Duxford or Shuttleworth, both being close by!
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How about this one - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/THROAT-BAFFLE-PLATE-FOR-THE-MORSO-SQUIRREL-1410-1430-1440-/151840574656?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10 I fitted one of their Stovax ones, half the price and made of stainless rather than mild steel. It was a good fit and looks like it will last.
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I have burnt Leylandei and cedar and both burn well if you season well and give out good heat.
