spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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He may know me but I don't know him so he has probably seen my threads and done a "me to" on his saws. Sounds like he has done a fair bit of work and can't see that the sell price makes it worth his while!
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As others have said, back to the dealer! The clutch may have partially spun off or it may have a fault with the bearing or clutch/spring - let the supplier sort it or it may invalidate the warranty!
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You sounded convincing and it was actually factually correct so yup, all good!
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Oh dear The bearings in the MS200 are like big needle bearings, there is ALWAYS end float on the crank even when new! It isn't an issue, was designed like that and causes no problems. If you had taken your saw to a decent tech, you would have probably saved a whole lot of time and money as they would have only replaced what was necessary rather than just replacing parts on a whim with no diagnosis or inspection. I had a customer recently send a whole load of parts with his saw and barely used any of them so...there you go!
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How does the underwear look
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What happened to Jon, I miss his garbled PMs about random 361s being made to go faster than 560s or something like that
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A bit hit and miss on the Naked Wines, not the best wine and they like you to buy regularly after the first deal....... we use The wine Society as it is local + very good and also make full use of the Tesco 25% off which they have most Bank Holidays - just get a few favourites they discount regularly and get double bubble when they do the 25% off
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Nothing wrong with that then, reckon it will be 150-170 if you measure it with a proper gauge. This is a very basic test and I call it the "poor mans compression test"!
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Easiest thing to do is to lift the saw with the starter handle and see how quickly it drops and if it holds on each compression stroke or just falls. The comparison with another good working saw on your compression gauge is a good idea.
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That compression is awful, should be 150-170psi if the saw top end is good and suspect you have used a car gauge which is unsuitable for small engines. The comparison is a sound idea but you will need the small plug convertor and it will measure a bit less because of it!
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Sorry, missed this, usually 10mm although I don't drill holes nowadays, have a neater solution!
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Glad to hear it, thought you may be a confirmed bachelor as my Mrs would draw the line at that. It was bad enough her finding two freshly painted crankcases off my 066 in her oven......did she complain
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Just to add to Gardenkits post and knowing he knows his lawnmowers - clean the jet with solvent and or airline, no drills or metal bits up there please!
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Bet that smells nice
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And taking off a far better OEM cylinder.......
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I have used them many years ago and they are sort of OK. With a 346, I would use a Meteor as they have good circlips, proper cast rings by Caber and their machining is excellent. Husky top ends are ridiculously expensive so would fit a quality replacement piston. For some reason, the Meteor top ends I have had in recently have had pretty poor port shaping and believe they come from elsewhere but the pistons have always been 100%
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Better rename this thread "Grumpy Old Men"......what a life when hot taps bear a warning that the water may be HOT
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I have seen a large number of aftermarket chain brake bands being supplied without the dowel bar that stops the band pulling through the casing when applied. I have even seen one fitted without a dowel bar being fitted. A retaining dowel must ALWAYS be fitted. THESE BANDS SHOULD ALWAYS BE FITTED WITH THE ROUND DOWEL FITTED, FAILURE TO DO SO MAY CAUSE THE BAND TO BE DRAWN THROUGH THE RETAINING AREA OF THE CASING IT IS FITTED IN!!!!! I don't like this cheapening up of a safety device and would think many may fit the part without recognizing the function of the little dowel rod retainer....be warned, keep safe!
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We have GM Growers just up the road, great for all sorts of animal feed, garden stuff and do some fantastic fruit and carrot cake! Some strange lines from frozen fish to pickled eggs to saddle soap but they are always busy!
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The screw on the coil is straight in to plastic - you can try fitting a bigger screw but as long as the coil isn't shifting, it may be OK. No Loctite needed on cylinder screws. The idling problem almost sounds like the saws carb is significantly worn. My advice is to set the carb at one turn out on the H&L screw and then set the idle speed. If this still dies, unwind the L screw 1/8th - 1/4 turn out and increase the idle to suit and if this doesn't sort it, the carb or saw has other issues.
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Whindham, not sure how else you would say it....what about Happisburgh!
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In life there are cocks of various sizes, the shorter cocks are usually the biggest cocks. Some live in big houses and some go round pinching "Village Hall" signs but they are all cocks and I for one will be happy to see the day they enter the depths of hell and have a red hot poker inserted up their large arses!
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what is a fair amount of time to wait for a part
spudulike replied to kimtree's topic in Maintenance help
Anything from 1 day to two months. It all depends on where the stock is and if there is no stock, when the next production run is to make it! If your usual dealer doesn't have it on stock, they will go to perhaps, a national distributor and if they don't have it, back to the factory or distributors in other countries. Some of it does depend on how efficiently your local dealer are on chasing through orders and fulfilling them! -
"buttrigging" - is that like .......underpants?
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Organised chaos in the supply chain
