spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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I have burnt Leylandei and cedar and both burn well if you season well and give out good heat.
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These autotune strato saws use much less fuel, less fuel means less oil, less oil means more heat and greater demand on bearings and friction surfaces. The manufacturers will work closely with their bearing suppliers to get maximum life out of them in demanding circumstances. The 560 muffler is pretty restrictive and if you gut it, sure it gets louder but it also gets rid of those hot gasses a lot quicker thus keeping the cylinder temperature down!
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Make sure you clear soot and debris off the baffle regularly as this can take them out. Just replaced our Stovax lower baffle after 14 years. The upper one went after 10 but managed to make one out of thick gauge steel plate. All toasty now.
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If the saw turns over freely with the plug out but not with it in, the only difference has to be the compression. Try removing the spark plug, tip the saw upside down and pull over hard, this will clear the bottom end of any residual fuel. Put the plug in and then pull the starter slowly and see if the saw will actually turn over with the plug in albeit slowly. If it does and I suspect it will, just drop start the bugger and have done with it, it can't be as bad as a 298XP I had once or one of my vintage McCullochs!
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Oil build up on the bore has gone thick and is causing the compression to dramatically rise. Take the plug out, spray some WD40/GT85 down the hole, pull the saw over a few times and then replace the plug and start. If this doesn't work - buy a MS181
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How do I pressure check the carb? No I know how to start stihl saws. It will start after a de flood but then runs terribly and will die if you take revs off. Then if you try and restart it from that point it is impossible and just floods. Pressure check - just put pressure down the fuel line connector and it should hold at least 10psi! from your description, it may be a faulty high speed check valve but difficult to tell without inspection. A carb with a leaking needle valve almost never starts.
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Have you pressure checked the carb? Is the saw flooding due to it being pulled over on choke too many times or is it down to the carb not functioning correctly - get your diagnostic hat on!!
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No mix issues though, just stick a bit of aviation grade kerosene in it
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It is a double edged sword, it can keep a machine running if it has a small air leak and may stop it seizing and will constantly analyse how the saw is running and give you optimal performance even with dirty air filters. These are the good things and you can look at how reliable cars are now with their electronics. On the bad side, the equipment manufacturers like to stop independents using their diagnostic kit forcing the general public toward the equipment dealer/agent as the car manufacturers did until the powers that be forced them to put OBD2 ports in the cars allowing non dealer agents and the initiated general public to diagnose car faults. It appears that only main dealers understand these complex machines For those not initiated - OBD2 and a suitable smart phone app allows you to diagnose car dash warning lights!
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It needs an afterburner - anything else is lame!
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Well......I didn't want to say, he also got an extra charge for grease - seems he likes a bit of grease
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I don't have to work on your saws you know I haven't barred anyone to date but think I will make an exception. Do you know I charge for this - it will be called "sundries" on the invoice but its literal translation is "taking the piss out of the customers" I know you love it
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You sure about that, I thought they were shyte until I fixed em
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A bit of a way from North Herts, will have to see what the owner reckons!
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Plenty of life left in this one!
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I have a freshly ported 088 that sounds a bit hungry, I think it may be a bit bonkers but won't know until it is wearing a big bar and is shown a big lump of wood
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I have learnt that good tradesmen make a job look simple and almost as though anybody can do it but in reality, when you try to do it yourself, it isn't quite as easy as you had thought it to be. I find that sometimes, these tradesmen forget the years of experience they have gained and the value this has to their customers. In my experience, the guys that are most vocal are the ones that don't know and the ones that smile from a distance are the ones with the true knowledge....just saying!
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No, not this time, it is up again, stated as not being a real Husqvarna and still making £108 with three days to go. After reporting it twice and putting a post on here, I declare people are stupid and a fool and his money are easily parted! What more can you do!!
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Glad you are happy PJ, I hate those stone cutters but worth repairing in the end. Glad the 357 is working well, thought it would after having a new piston and they often need a tweak once they have a bit of fuel through them - just glad the courier could tell the difference between Birmingham and Eire
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Best keep where you are and look after your saws as nothing out there compares.....as Sinead warbled about!
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Glad you are happy, I could tell that you thought the bad running couldn't be contributed to the oily air filter but there you go. The rest is just....Alchemy
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So the problem with a few years chainsaw production is the metal the drums are made of.....it isn't like Stihl haven't made a few million chainsaws in their time So what's the excuse with the MS362? I have had quite a number in now with the same issue! Funny that I have never needed to change a bearing on a MS200 and 066/MS660s seem to go on forever
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Stihl put a big ole hole in the choke plate and have done away with the fast idle setting unless on full choke - it basically makes it more simple and therefore doesn't work as well as it should as if you try to start it when warm, full choke can flood it but the normal run position can be a bit hit and miss.....we will call this Progression through technology!
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I surmise that people ARE stupid!
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Carlisle - that's Ooooooooppp North isn't it, damn, I don't go up there
