spudulike

I am not sure on the 024, I would think that there is an advance on a saw that late. One way of telling is to line up the coil with the magnet, take the top cover off, paint one of the top flywheel fins and then use a Xeon strobe on the thing and rev from idle and it should stay static if the ignition is fixed. Simple eh

Check the state of the piston, do all the normal things you would on a non AT saw as they often are the things that fail on AT saws. You can spray carb cleaner down the carb and see if it will fire but would do the compression and piston check before going too far. No reset button on the carb, the saw should fuel and flood if you pull it over on full choke a few times. Check the gauze filter and metering arm, same as on a normal carb - they aren't that different!

The 026 coil in NOT limited, the thing should spin up to silly revs if allowed to. It may be worth starting at a lowly 10krpm, rev the saw up, get the tach counting and wind the screw in and see where or if it goes loopy. Only limited coils will bounce all over the shop, an unlimited coil will hold revs and the tach will display them. Is the coil OEM? Some Chinese coils are pretty shyte and that is being polite! You can do a rough test on HT integrity by taking an old plug and opening up the electrode gap to 5-7mm and seeing if it still sparks OK - it should be able to jump that sort of distance.

Whose this "Spude"?? Sounds a bit French

I missed the fact that both pots have ended up with the same issues as the thread has been going on so long and it is also damn difficult to compare two saws performance on a vid where the camera falls over. A couple of things to try - have you tried a new plug? I always thought it not worth it but have had a few bits of kit in recently with plug issues. The other one is that often the kill wire can wear on the top AV mount (the one that screws in to the air box) and cause the saw to misfire when it earths on the metal washer on the mount. The issue here is that you may spend out on an OEM pot and find the thing still isn't right due to a simple issue - it may be a coil breaking down - they can sometimes act like a rev limiter kicking in early! Just read the thread again - if the gauze strainer filled and stopped the saw working well, the fuel tank probably has pulp debris in it and it will need flushing out until 100% clean. The split fuel line will have helped fill the carb with crap. The fuel filter doesn't always take out all the crap in the tank so check again and make sure the strainer comes out completely and is inspected with a magnifying glass. Have you checked the flywheel to coil gap? That may knock off a fair bit of performance! Is the oiler working OK? Had many saws in "Lacking Performance" only to find faulty oilers! Good luck with the new saw.

As others have said, it is due to the flue getting cold when not used and then not drawing properly once lit. Cold damp and still days are far worse. We fitted a Wildkat cowl and it helped a lot, the firelighter trick can work and have heard of electric fans that you fit in the flue to draw the air/smoke initially to ensure a draw on the flue. If we use our fire every night, it works better than leaving it a few nights especially if frosty. We always open the door once the fire is lit as it helps get the warm air up the chimney. The fire may light without doing this but it helps to get the fire lit. Perhaps a fan heater would work as well as the hair dryer. We don't have an issue now with our Stovax.

If you want the server overclocked, just let me know

my experience is from factory/engineering work, if an operative is employed to do a hazardous job (in my case operating heavy plant equipment - power presses, robotic assembly plant etc) then he must be qualified to do so and the company must have the records to show that they have the correct training/qualifications to do the job. This can be internal training by Management/Supervisors or other qualified staff and MUST include a section on safety - I used to tell them that the machine wouldn't hear their screams. That usually seemed to do it - that and the prospect of squashed limbs looking like pizzas! If a person is injured and has over two consecutive days off (correct in my day), the H&S is called in and will investigate training systems, training records, written instruction and equipment control/servicing etc. If someone has been given a hazardous job to do and the company hasn't checked out the guys qualifications and someone is hurt then if you were an insurer and facing a multi £1,000 claim what would you do..... Think of a warehouse taking on a forklift driver and not checking his certificate - what happens when he clumps the high rise and takes out £50k of stock!!! Companies Liability I reckon!

Great saws, I got pretty fit when I had one in to fix, all that replacing parts and pulling it over with no starting. Gives you a pretty good workout! You don't cut much with it though

Probably best to get an electrician to do this properly. I had my head stuck in machine cabinets for most of 20 years but never messed with the big grey boxes on the wall bar testing fuses the size of your fist! The job is pretty simple but you wouldn't want to lash it and have consequences such as fire, hospitalization or death!

De Boomsleper

Idle at 2000 is damn low, should be around 2800 - 3000rpm but will make no difference to top end power. 13200rpm is about where it should be on the top end. Sounds like you are putting off the inevitable in changing the top end. Those Chinese ones give you a working saw but that can be about it and sounds like it is in your case. Options are that you can use it as is, make some money and get it sorted or sell it on eBay to the uneducated public.

Sorry, nothing like that. Have listened to the vid and your 026 is holding much lower revs in the cut and that will be down to either the saw being overly rich (check the colour of the plug) or just down to the aftermarket pot not making the power. The OEM parts are a fair bit cheaper now, around £130!

Farmertec manufactures some of the cheapest aftermarket parts, I would say it is damn likely that this is your issue. I would either fit a new OEM top end, fit the OEM top end you have and a new Meteor piston or if funds are tight, go for the Hyway Chinese option. The saw is running and sounds like it is doing it's best! Measuring the compression cold then hot would give you part of the equation but looking at the ports and port durations with a timing wheel and comparing to standard would do the rest!

Happy customers keep me going, glad all worked out well, I really push for 100% but it is damn difficult to achieve!

Here we go again....you need to verify that the cylinder and piston are OEM or at least quality aftermarket. The reason is that the OEM kit will raise around 170psi compression and even high hours machines do this. If the machine has an OEM top end on it then you can get severe skirt wear on high hours machines, usually accompanied with a metallic slapping sound on idle. This would give a lacklustre machine! Lack of power is most likely either a poor top end or a carb that is miles out of adjustment or has issues. The carb should be set to one turn out H&L and if you cant get a decent idle and max revs then you have issues elsewhere. If the saw revs out and idles OK then it is likely the top end is a bit iffy. I have known many Chinese kits make around 140psi and this isn't enough to get decent torque in the cut. It sounds like you are going round in circles. You should always verify that the saw can make good compression, that it has no issues like a nipped/seized piston and once you know the mechanics are good then you can look at the carb and ancillaries. The saws generally cut pretty well and have a fair turn of speed, not a racer but a reliable workhorse! If it is pretty flat then I would be doing the above! Compression isn't the only part as I have seen machines with good compression make no power but a hot compression check usually shows a significant drop in compression. If you don't understand or can't do this then find someone who can!

You have to be careful on aftermarket parts, some are worth having and some are dire. The inlet manifolds and AV Mounts (annular buffers) are in the dire category!

Do it early on a Sunday morning when everyone is in bed or as near dusk as it safe assuming it is a fair distance from homes. You are doing a service, not taking anything and is hardly criminal damage. If anyone asks, just say you are clearing a public footpath. Footpaths outside of towns are rarely looked after and only stay clear because of footfall, I have felt like carrying a hedge trimmer on many an occasion. If you look the part, most will think you are a council worker anyway and will probably be happy some bugger cares!

Had a local guy return a rebuilt 066 with similar, smelt like paraffin coming out of the saw, couldn't start it and as a last resort, filled it with fresh fuel and when it fired, man, the smoke, it literally filled the street with a pea souper, what a stink - got it going though!

Don't wish that sort of failure, just send it in anyway - just shipped one out to Ireland...he will be happy, nice saw!

They are OK, Johnny Birch had one until some scrote pinched it a few weeks later. I believe he was pretty happy with it at the time!

Yes, still running, he looked a bit sheepish and did the off a bit quick

Here we go - Customer - got a MS440 to port...Me - lovely, bring it in......Customer - here it is......Me... Feck - have you tried cleaning the air filter - it may give you more power!!!! He will of course, notice a good increase, made better by the fact that it will be all clean and nice inside and out!

Nice seeing an employer investing in staff rather than shafting them like most others! It is sometimes the easy simple things like a cheap family holiday that mean the most!

Never knew Rip Van Wincle worked for Northern Arb