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wyk

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About wyk

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Personal Information

  • Location:
    Wicklow and Waterford Demesne, Ireland
  • Occupation
    Timber Cruiser, Sawman
  • City
    Enniskerry

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  1. My guess is you are noticing the leak because the oil is discoloured. It's likely been there a while now.
  2. A timing advance on the Echo CDi ignition systems seems to have no effect on performance. The Echo already greatly advances the timing when it's in the cut. It does't even really help the pick up/revving.
  3. wyk

    Bar wear

    Those pieces are eventually moved to a pallet stack made of potato boxes to dry. A hint for other firewooderz, asking local potato or beet farmers if they have old wood boxes they need to get rid of is a good idea. They are huge, easily repaired if damaged, and make great pallets to dry and move wood in, and can be burned once they break down too much. We usually drag them over to the pile on the tractor, use the scoop to fill them, then drag the pallet back to the stack. I never got a photo of them since it's sort of a boring photos, but this is an idea what they can look like. Ours are built with 12X2's instead of 4X2's, tho, and are 4 foot by 8 foot:
  4. I recall this bouncing around 12K in the wood when I had the tach to it. This is a 4300 I did for Shavey. Tuned to just bounce off the limiter at 13.6 or so:
  5. 12-12.6K in the cut according to the tacho, Tuned to 14.5K out of the cut. I would consider this far too hot to run as a work saw(and have since sold it off). But I learned a lot about it having had it all apart:
  6. wyk

    Bar wear

    Do not use Sunflower oil if you can avoid it. It will oxidize much faster than Rapeseed, and it doesn't lubricate quite as well. It tastes lovely, tho. I've said it before and I'll say it again; I set my oilers to maximum, and I run straight rapeseed oil you buy from the grocer. Have been doing so since 2010. It works just fine and has saved me far more in oil expenses than it has caused any issues with my bars and chains. It is also biodegradable and does not cause any health issues that petroleum oil can. I've made a lot of firewood and felled a lot of trees over the years, nearly all of it with ported saws and long bars. If you work in very hot conditions, or stump a lot of trees or mill, you may want something thicker, but in the UK and Ireland, I haven't had issues cutting in freezing weather and in temps above 32C. I'm usually far less happy than the saw is in that weather. When I remove a bar to dress it, I flip it. I dress my bars and clean them out often depending on the conditions. Dressing bars is kind of like sharpening kitchen knives. If you use a light touch with a sharpening hone every time before you use the knife, it stays sharp and useful for a very long time. Abuse it, and the knife stops cutting worth a damn, becomes dangerous now that you have to actually use force to make it cut, and you have to bust out the stones and spend a long time putting the edge back on that knife afterwards. A chainsaw is like a knife this way; when tuned right, you should not have to use much pressure. The saw does all the work. Use a light touch and clean and redress your bar often, vs a heavy touch and rarely. And flip it, flip it good. USGS test on rapeseed based bio oils: https://www.fs.fed.us/eng/pubs/html/98511316/98511316.html Croation Forestry Dept test showing rapeseed based bio oils can run cooler: http://www.crojfe.com/site/assets/files/3945/stanovsky_83-90.pdf The usual mess I make:
  7. wyk

    Orange makita

    I think a few have. Best ask @shavey. I think Makita was avoiding it at first because their homeowner/DIY electric brands were orange in Europe. The saws look great in either colour as Makita blue is rather unique, but red is harder to lose in the brush. And 4300's can be made to run!
  8. Distributor of SugiHara and Tsumura chainsaw bars for Ireland. Give us a ring.

  9. You are better off using semi chisel or micro chisel chain. It is far easier to sharpen, and it will still last a long time in dirty and seasoned hard woods, even encountering a bit of metal, and cost much less(especially since you will need a good electric chain sharpener for the carbide). Carbide chain is better for rescue saws and cutting sleepers or old powerline poles with loads of metal in them. CSB are one of the few people that always stock semi chisel and micro: CUSTOM CHAIN LOOP - Chainsawbars WWW.CHAINSAWBARS.CO.UK Select your pitch & gauge for results. All of this had been sitting for a year in mud and dirt. Not a bother using semi chisel chain, even for the wire and the nails. You sharpen it much less and it wears much less in this sort of environment.
  10. I'm in County Wicklow just south of Dublin. I also visit an estate outside of Clonmel in Waterford on occasion.
  11. It should state on the bar what chain it takes.
  12. On a new saw, I will let it warm up mostly at idle, with the mix set a bit rich for a heat cycle and to make sure there is plenty of oil in the internals. That is maybe 60 seconds or so of it just sitting there idling while I prepare all my other gear to cut with it. Shut her down. Check it over to make sure nothing is loose or improperly set, start her up and then I go cut. For a ported saw when I have just put it all together, I will let it idle for several heat cycles depending on the saw. The bigger it is, the more cycles I will give it(60 seconds of idle, then off for a bit the first time, with some throttle the next 2-3 times). This is mainly to ensure all the internals get oil, the ring starts to break in a bit over the larger ports, and I am sure nothing is trying to come off the saw. If I have the wherewithal at the time, I may even try to figure out where all the left over bolts should have gone.
  13. As Steve said earlier, one thing that I see when people bring saws in is the bar being poorly looked after. What will really hurt performance is not only the rails being uneven or not dressed properly, but the gutter being worn as well. The more movement the chain is allowed on the bar, the worse your cutting performance will be. Like with at least one other thing in life I can think of, you want a tight groove that's properly lubricated.
  14. The 261 was the non xp version. I had a ported 261 chassis with 262xp parts all over it at one point. The main difference was the cylinder.
  15. If you remove the cat or have a straight thru/DP muffler, the cooling plate is not nearly as necessary. The muffler won't get anywhere near as hot as the factory cat one does and the air flow will be plenty except if you are working in Texas or sumfin.. One thing I noticed at least here in Ireland is BAHCO files are cheaper than most others. The last time I bought a set, they were made by OBERG. Oberg make very high quality files, and used to fetch a premium when I was working in the PNW, with some folks only ever using Oberg.

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