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wyk

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About wyk

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Personal Information

  • Location:
    Wicklow and Waterford Demesne, Ireland
  • Occupation
    Timber Cruiser, Sawman
  • City
    Enniskerry

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  1. Use the right tool for the job. It's a good idea to be practical and pragmatic, but there is a point where you must compromise. When it comes to tools, what's more important is the job gets done efficiently, effectively, and affordably, and maybe even safely. The tool needs to conform to these aspects first before being uniform. In fact, the very phrase of having the best tool for the job means that the tools shall differ. It's logistics versus practice here. I would stick with 325 on the 40-50cc saws(and I also prefer it on 30cc saws as well), and 3/8 on the larger saws. Even on strongly ported 50cc saws, I still prefer 325 - smoother, smaller kerf, lasts well enough, and we now have a large amount for choice in various 325 chains for different jobs.
  2. Had enough time to take a vid of my own 044 today. This is nearly bone stock. Just a timing advance and a few more holes in the rear cover. Unported.
  3. wyk

    Echo CS 501SX

    It sounds like a carb tuning issue. Echo's can be fairly lean from the dealer sometimes. But removing the baffle tube from the exhaust - it simply unbolts from the muffler outlet and slides right out, might help a bit too as it's rather restrictive on that model. If you have an Echo chainsaw, you should also own a double 'd' tuning screwdriver to tune the carbs with. Bear in mind the Walbros on Echos tend to be sensitive to tuning, turn the driver in small increments and test the throttle and the saws response. Opening the fuel tank in hot weather if a saw has been sitting helps on most any saw. Take the opportunity to top it off, as this will also cool the fuel in it. Er, unless you leave your fuel in the sun...which I don't suggest you do.
  4. Lol. Carving all day with tipper is shan on the wrists. Probs the same of hedgelaying all day It's a 'forest for the trees' thing. If you swing around a hammer all day long, everything looks like a nail. Having more options and more tools for the job isn't likely to hurt.
  5. Those lovely Japanese folks are hard at work at producing them as we speak.
  6. Gut the muffler on that 7910 and advance the timing a bit, and they really come alive.
  7. If anyone is looking for a good 044, feel free to contact me.
  8. The arb world is gunna lubbit. I would love one for carving and for the christmas turkey: CS-2511WES coming soon. WWW.ECHO-TOOLS.CO.UK A revolution in rear handle chainsaw technology, the CS-2511WES is a game changer. #smallbeast coming...
  9. By virtue of being 1128, it's a 10mm saw. Mine is also a 1128 vintage. It also makes it a later 10mm, which were the stronger of the bunch. What Stihl did, tho, was detune it with a cat and retard the timing a touch. Advancing the timing 6* or so(.025" of the woodruff key), and removing the cat makes these saws run very strong. If you remove the gasket for more compression, I would stick with .020 of the key just to be safe. So, yes, that original cylinder is worth saving if you can.
  10. OK, I've moved on to another saw. Does anyone want to make an offer on a 281xp for parts - let me know.
  11. If it's an early 90's, it's nearly guaranteed to be a 10mm saw. Take a photo of the top of both cylinders. A serial # under about 1129 is an older, stronger 10mm version. If possible, clean up the old cylinder. Early 044 and 046 cylinders were the best Stihl ever made. Replace the catalytic converter if it's still in there with a new muffler, even if it is aftermarket. That cat has killed so many 10mm 044's If it is an auto choke version, which it sounds like it is, then the lack of impulse passage makes sense. If it is not an auto choke carb, you need the standard cylinder set up. At least that's what I was told... I haven't seen an auto choke in person. One thing to be mindful of, is that if you place a 12mm jug on a 10mm chassis you want to be sure the ring pins on the 10mm piston clears the port.
  12. Either a Dolmar/Makita from @shavey or an Echo from @RobD before those two Husky or Stihl options you've mentioned. They are made better in that price range.
  13. I'd get a Dolmar from Andrew before any of those options.
  14. Thanks. Yeah, I have been simply searching for part # 501-81-28-01
  15. Thanks, Bil.. Unfortunately, he's not got the secondary, AKA Ignition module. Local guy hasn't heard from Husqvarna, either. I'll prolly have to drag one in from the US.

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