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Peter 1955

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  1. Our Charnwood inset boiler is the only heat source for the whole bungalow, and hot water. We have an electric shower, so don't need fire for that, and only use immersion very rarely for hot water. Looking good for next year's wood ( it's awaiting logging to length, splitting and stacking in shed ) but we've just about used two year's worth of wood in one, and have very little left ready to burn. A combination of a long cold spell or three, and the wife being home all day due to various flavours of lockdown have been disastrous. The stove will run on coal, which is a more attractive option than buying bags in from log suppliers, at the rate we are using it. It's been a blessed relief these past weeks, being able to reduce log usage, but I'm still lighting it every morning.
  2. Apologies, I can see how that might be misinterpreted, my mistake. I was referring to batteries and charger, not saws. The blighters have now put that up by £50, item number 665FV. It's not the bargain it was earlier.
  3. Clever little blighter, ain't it? 😉 That I think is the difference between a saw designed for hard nearly continuous use, and one designed to be used intermittently.
  4. Heat is the enemy of batteries. If I run my saw hard and stick the batteries straight on charge as they flatten, they refuse to charge, being too hot. Have to let them cool first. Absolutely correct about sharp chains and light pressure. It's only a battery saw after all. If I'm using a 16" bar, there's either a Stihl 038 turning it, or a mains powered saw. Stihl/Husky/Echo electric saws are capable of running bigger bars than mine, but that's Pro gear. I have three Makita battery drills, one has a side handle about a foot long, and needs it. One has a six inch handle, and one has no side handle. As you might guess, I don't put huge great drill bits in the one with no handle, it's not designed to turn them. Horses for courses.
  5. The battery Makita is a great saw, and relatively powerful too. I got mine because I have more Makita tools. Rear handled saws are readily available in this range, not just climbing saws. Make sure the chain is sharp, because that really saps the battery power, and I'd recommend a 12" chain, no longer. Also, you will need spare batteries, and a twin charger, unless you like having long tea breaks. The best deal anywhere is at Screwfix. 4x5ah batteries, and a twin charger for £279. Now it may or may not help you, but don't discount the 240v saws, ie cabled. I have an old one, and it's amazing. Easier than starting a petrol, but a length of cable to deal with.
  6. I've had similar problems with Kombi attachments. Usually it's been as a result of dirt getting into the system. I replaced one pump myself, and had the second one done by dealers, as it's a tad fiddly. I don't know if the dedicated units are similar.
  7. I think you may have misunderstood the idea. The way I've done it is to drill say a 4" hole with the petrol auger, and then bash a 6" post into the hole. Makes the knocking in so much easier. No concrete or postfix used.
  8. Ask, and ye shall receive. 5 Tonne transit. Heaven knows how deep pocket's you'll need? 😲😁
  9. The Makita 36v saw ( with ten or twelve inch bars ) is very good, but not in the same league as the professional saws like Stihl and Husky. ( In my humble opinion). I wouldn't be parted from mine, but I have loads of Makita tools already, so it made sense to get that one. Years ago, my son bought a Makita corded chainsaw, and it's been unbelievable. Cuts like a petrol, and very quiet. Until checking out some other models, I'd expected to replace it with another Makita, but I see that many other makes have significantly bigger motors. Although I've never felt the Makita was lacking oomph, it's food for thought.
  10. I too was told on here that for the 4-mix engines, you need the Stihl HP Super, the green stuff. Lower ash, or something. 👍
  11. Very little to add to the excellent advice given already. Ah, the excitement of the unknown, when excavating. We did two jobs for the same customer in a village. First one, we dug almost every hole with the Stihl BT 130 petrol auger, piece of cake. She then moved across the village, and up the hill. About ten inches of soil, over stone. Every hole dug mainly with one of these , and a pair of grabbers, absolute nightmare.
  12. Stihl and replacement parts prices are something else! Once upon a time, I broke the casting on my Kombi pole saw attachment. " Allegedly", only me and a bloke in Scotland had ever done so. I was quoted something like £175 for the casting only, by the parts department. Over in the Sales dept, I purchased a whole new attachment, ie shaft, casting, bar and chain, for: £160.00 You couldn't make it up.
  13. Blimey! Sounds simple, will keep you all posted. Thanks.
  14. I have just started the process with NatWest, and am opening a business account purely to service the loan. ( No fees ). For anyone who has done this already, to get the loan, do you have to send them copies of accounts, and if so how? File attachments? Scans? Photos? I'm presuming they need to see some? 🤔
  15. Manufacturers are moving to higher voltages on many tools. The reason behind this is to lower the current draw for a given power requirement. If two tools had batteries of equivalent watt hours, eg a 12v with a 5Ah battery, and a 30v with a 2Ah battery, and they both had a 60 watt motor, the 2Ah battery should last longer. That's a very simplistic explanation, but just cos a battery has a bigger Amp Hour rating, doesn't necessarily mean a longer runtime than a smaller higher voltage one, as Justme quite rightly says. That's why Makita for one are doubling up batteries on many high power tools. Don't forget though, that two 18volt 5Ah batteries in series ( to give 36v ) are only in effect one 5Ah battery. Also, very importantly, don't mix different sizes of battery, for best results they need to be as near identical as possible, eg both 5Ah, not a six and a three, and they ought to be of similar age and condition. Sorry if I haven't explained it clearly.

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