spudulike

I did get a call a while ago from someone offering crank rebuilds but usually try to get an OEM crank new of second user fitted. Used some aftermarket ones but have horror stories on MS660s so tend to swerve that option. So, I scrap the old crank and fit new OEM but scrap the saw if costs are too high - there are even things I can't bring back to life!

I grew up as a kid with power cuts, strikes, Arthur Scargill, British Leyland, Today/Eddy Shar and the winter of discontent. Times were rough with four day working weeks slipping in to three day weeks and big unemployment. The Labour Government, to be brutally honest, didn't have a clue what to do as their paymasters, the unions, had them by the nads British Leyland, Norton, Villiers, Triumph consolidated in to NVT making shyte mopeds etc and our bins not emptied for weeks! I started work in the early 80s and jobs were freely available, money was to be made and fortune favoured the brave. The tory government brought in PEPS, latterly hijacked buy Blair and called ISAs, a great idea allowing the unwashed British public to make a bit of tax free dosh by investing in UK companies although this has changed a bit now. I can't say selling off council houses & lack of respect for UK production were good but I can say that in my own circumstances, I benefitted through those years and they set me up through hard work and opportunity. Shame Theresa May doesn't seem to have shaped up to have the same Kahoonas as Maggie.

It would be a boring video, bit like a tap dripping! You put the HT lead in to it and close the pliers and they punch a small hole in to the lead so you can fit the spur HT spring. If you are "Refitting" the spring and cap, you can use the existing hole!

Look at invertors, they are a box of tricks that let you ramp up a motor over a predetermined time to give you the motor speed you desire and the same on shutdown. I got involved with them on manufacturing machinery some 20 years ago and they were somewhat interesting once you understood what they did and how they worked. The start up of the motor takes the juice so you need it to be slow and controlled.

I use both these companies and never had a problem from either, L&S are very much a reseller of the main manufacturers OEM parts, GHS are more aftermarket orientated but both seem pretty good to me, never an issue with either!

After swerving any form of recall or compensation. Those saws that knocked out their cranks are dire and the 362 had similar issues. Not good that the customer had to take the hit!

Mityvac is one of the best, you can purchase the Stihl unit which costs £££ or make a tester from various gauges and valves, those are the normal options. Cleaning the bore - Acid or alkali will oxidise and erode the transfer on the bore. Ideally the honing marks will be against the ring direction rather than with it. Either abrasive paper or a light go with a bore hone will do the job, just clean it well afterwards. HT leads, I just put the spur on, hold it in place with a piece of heat-shrink, oil the cap and then push the spur HT connector in to the cap. It works for me! Oh - you never pay any excise, tax or import duty from EU countries, China - you tend to get away with it on small Items as they don't bother with duty on small purchases , US - you tend to get a mother load of tax and duty on anything unless you import pre paying the tax and duty which tends to be the best way of doing it. That's what I have found!

On the bar size, your 181 will take a time to get through wood with a 16", a 50cc saw will take much less time and you will be able to lean on it with no risk of bogging. It caught me in the early days when I saw a professional using a 15" on a 357XP, couldn't understand it until I gained a bit more knowledge and experience!

Unless I am mistaken, Greece and the UK are both in the common market so no import duties....at the moment!

Forgot to answer the original OPs question. I usually either bypass the cat or take it out depending on ease of modifying it. On the L screw, most of the plug colour comes from flat out running. The L screw gives fuel for idle and around 1/3 throttle so effects pickup off idle and then hands over to the H speed check valve. The L screw would normally be wound in to where the revs increase, a bit more to the point the saw is stalling and then out again, past the high revs part and then around 1/4 turn more. On most saws, the engine note changes from being rhythmical and consistent to getting slightly uneven and noticeably shaking a little more on its AV. This is my sweet spot! If the L screw is too far in, you will lack throttle response and starting will be difficult. Too far out and the saw will tend to die after a long cut when it falls back to idle. That is what I have found anyway. Echo saws can be a bit finniky on the carb adjustment - the small ones being a right sod on occasions!

There are two trains of thought on the forum, extra oil and bang on manufacturers recommendation. My take on the manufacturers recommendation is that it will probably adhere to EPA laws so will take in to consideration the pollution over oiling may cause rather than only considering what is best for the engine and providing a safety margin. My 10:1 ratio was moving the mix to one you would never use, one so radical, it would have an obvious effect and I don't see a saw over revving on this mix - that may be another test I guess. I have seen home owners saws come in with probably 25:1 in them, certainly not mixed at 50:1 and they don't rev and smoke like mad, it is just what they do and put that down to the oil fouling the plug and causing the plug not to ignite the mix on every stroke - four stroking. It is just what I have found, never seen any damage bar oily deposits and a bit of extra carbon, never seized and the plug was never white or grey....no death ash on it!

If it has failed on the end, get the end to red heat with a plumbers torch and reform the end using pliers etc. It is a lash but has worked on more than one occasion! You could give L&S engineering a bell or check their website with the correct part number!

I measure the petrol:oil to be between 45:1 and 50:1 on my mix as I find a number of saws come in with no significant reason to seize and can only put it down to slight over revving, slight mistake in mixing oil and perhaps a tiny air leak so a number of very insignificant issues making a big issue. My thinking is that a slight over egging on oil will help keep an engine protected more than perhaps making a slight mistake on the mix and risking seize. I wonder how accurate many mixes people use actually are!

So are we saying say a 10:1 mix will make an engine over rev and seize being lean...I would propose it would smoke, run with poor performance and foul the plug....wouldn't it? I don't get it and not having a go, just don't see the logic!

That's the shock, kicking in!

Bet that made your eyes water, lucky it didn't hit the main artery!

Depending where he is from, he could be an hour ahead of the UK or 11 hours ahead. I think he will be impressed by the number of comments

The excerpt is primarily about two stroke racing bikes but chainsaws are either running flat out or on idle and partial throttle is rarely used so there are many similarities. Two strokes like to be flat out as it allows the engine to work more efficiently and allows the heat to burn off the deposits the oil may otherwise produce. The excerpt is from a 1983 book but was added to in 1999 - some tech has changed but it remains a good read. I have yet to find any documented technical info that says a higher two stroke oil content in two stroke fuel creates more heat in the engine!

Not sure Google translation is up to this as I am either pissed or totally confused and I think it is the latter not the former but could be wrong

Excerpt from Graham Bells Two Stroke Tuning Book - My experience has shown that the more oil you pour into a two-stroke, the harder it runs. Just how much you should pour in depends on several factors, but it usually works out that the longer you hold the throttle wide open, the more oil you should use.

Sorry - L&S Engineering, do mail order spares for Stihl, Husqvarna, Makita and much more! Decent outfit IMO.

No problem, brave taking out the internals but did do one recently and you are right, big improvements!

Have you ever experienced anyone seizing a saw through too much oil? In my experience, saws running too much oil generally don't rev properly and smoke like a pope has been voted in. I have found this over oiling mostly on home owner or farmer saws and have never shown signs of getting overly hot - most have oily deposits around the muffler and often have an oily residue in the carb. Personally I don't see over oiling seizing a saw but do mostly see seizure through old fuel, straight petrol, air leaks and poor carb adjustment. No oil in the fuel creates friction, creating heat and piston meltdown and too much air makes a saw over rev making too much heat thus melting the piston! I am interested in this and may use a 50:1 and 20:1 in my saw and take a thermal reading off the cylinder top and see what really gives as I really don't see an over oily petrol mix allowing an engine to create too much heat as in my opinion, right or wrong, too much oil just stops an engine revving and makes it smoke. Had this on another thread and interested to substantiate and prove the fact!

Yup, not that great a saw. If you can't get aftermarket parts off ebay, they are probably not in existence. Why not just fit the OEM parts, L&S now do Husqvarna parts.......

You are probably right, long way to the moon!