spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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No, just pulling your leg
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I think you should buy one before telling him
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You did that on a 390XP
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Ah - won't be long - is that in the lifespan of the common Mayfly or the history of the earth?
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Bugger me - that's Matty F on a big lump of beech Nice evening out!
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I found burying the complete bar in woods like oak would do it. As others have said, turn up the oiler, you could try thinning the oil a bit if it is a bit gloopy and the weather is cold. There is only one oil pump on the IPL BUT two pump pistons, the one that should give more oil is the Australian spec -1122 647 0602 rather than the normal 1122 647 0601 UK/US version - you will need to strip the oil pump apart and fit the new piston but it may be an answer on the longer bars.
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I never realised chainsaws were such big polluters, I would have thought planes, trucks, cars and dodgy factories were as there are more of them and are running all the time they are in flight/on the road etc. I was always told to look at the big figures because in the big figures, there are easier gains to be made but what do I know. Looks like we will soon have loads of trees to do work on but nothing to cut them down with, perhaps harsh language would do it!
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I know that owning a Stihl 009 and a couple of vintage McCullochs, I was being tongue in cheek comparing the latest technology with the old vintage bangers but the same advantages! Obviously a bit too subtle.
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Like a reed valve then?
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Not that big bird that was flogging the burgers and coffee?
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Sounds like poop to me as well!
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Sounds like a reasonable Idea to me, may need to make up a stud with a plate on it or some sort of washer on the inside of the tank and bond it in to the hole with a bit of epoxy but may just work fine.
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Fortunately, the other 200 the guy has in was sweet, decent machine and now very nice!
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It will be safe and not cause any issues if you take that out and should make an improvement.
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0.02" is 0.5mm, no drama. You need to move the gasket from the cylinder to the crankcase and see how different the cylinder lower transfers are to the crankcase opening and then gauge if you can open the lowers to improve flow and resistance. Some high revving saws don't like too much opening as it kills transfer velocity but from your picture, you are looking at small amounts In an ideal world, you could split the crankcase and attach one half to the cylinder and see and feel the differences that can be blended but don't get that chance too often. Like Wes says, ring ends, free porting, skirt width, bevels are all dangerous areas to the uninitiated and need to be understood before you grind metal on an expensive top end!
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Yes, no other option, full strip, split and rebuild!
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Does the drum have a bit of end float on it - in and outy movement as it should? All OEM parts?
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Not a great day, noticed that the clutch drum had a bit too much end float BEFORE the clutch was removed, everything looked fine, went to put it back after rebuild and crunch, this happened. Have had the flywheel side go a bit like this on another MS200T but looks like it has been fractured for a while and that little light grey bit was the only part holding it together as it is the only clean bit that hasn't oxidised. Bad, bad, bad got another OEM part on its way!
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Have you not got it meshed with the oiler pinion correctly?
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No need, nice and gleaming again.......I did take it you did meant photos of the saws
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0.5mm and make sure all the carbon is off before measuring!
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Why oh why do owners do it to the tools of their trade! Just had three MS201s in, man they were really minging - think that is the modern way of saying covered in ye olde shyte! I don't expect pristine but do expect the chip to come off with no more than two applications and scrub with a brush and white spirit!
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Identify the thread on the stud that screws in to the hole - it will have an external diameter and a number of threads per mm - something like M5 x 0.8 etc, you will need to purchase a helicoil of the correct size and a tap that will cut a receiving thread for the helicoil and will match the outer thread of the helicoil (not the internal thread). I have done a couple this way and had success with it as a repair - the saw should have an alloy crankcase!
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I will take your word for it Matt but you do wear your hair a little long anything we should know about Just kidding!
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I usually take the muffler off and wobble the flywheel to and forth and you can see the play caused by the ring groove and the rest is backlash and movement in the bearings. Generally on a healthy engine, you only get a little movement on the ring groove and little else on the big and small end. Worth trying at TDC, BTDC and mid stroke as it will also show up wear on the piston skirt - you did vernier the piston top middle and bottom or put it in the cylinder and wobble it in the opening to check for skirt wear? You can remove the clutch and fire it up without it - admittedly this is a bit of a sod of a saw having that strange top hat flanged bush that may come out of the PTO side but it is probably the clutch rattling....more common on the 346 though. Check the ends, then the mains and if the saw hasn't got the "Death Rumble" of bad mains, you should be OK.
