Rich Rule

Cheers Tim. I was actually trying to reiterate Reg's comments about the emails and messages he gets from people saying the have learnt this and that. It is all good and well copying what is done in a video providing there is an understanding of the forces generated, in this example of speedlining.

I will watch the vid later Reg. I must admit though a lot of people are using and documenting the process with video. I, have used simple zip lines for quite a few years when necessary. I have even made a vid of job including them. The point I am trying to make was, not too many years ago there was a video showing a speed/zip line to remove a tree. Many comments were made about dumping loads into a zip line without a control line. It was suggested to conventionally rig into a block. Once the load has been captured, tension the zip line and control the descent with the rigging line. The lowering method then tensioning IMO defeats the object of a quick zip line.

I tend to reduce from within the crown leave plenty of growth where possible. Then reduce the leaders back in a bit of needed to refine the shape.

I have had similar problems with mine. I have fixed it twice now. Symptoms are the saw cuts out mid cut. But then starts up straight away. It cuts out again at the same time angle etc but will start again. The first time this happened I had the carb off 3 times and cleaned and it wasn't an issue. Eventually we found the fault. If you take the side cover off and then remove the really thin sheet of plastic under the handle you will expose some wires. There is an earth wire which connects to the body of the saw. This had come undone and was connecting but then when the saw increased the revs this connection must have broken due to the vibes. Saw cuts out etc... Tightened it up by removing the plastic cover under the clutch and tighten and the problem went away. So might be worth checking that first. The second time, I had the same symptoms and checked the obvious. All good on the connection I described above. So I pulled the plug cover off and the wire came out. There was about 2 mm of bare wire showing. Trimmed back the cover and reinserted in the plug cover and fixed again. Another one to try, but the loose earth connection has happened on a couple of saws.

Say a big hello from me. I work with Ollie over in Oslo.

Would that be Ollie Bennet mate?

Lovely shots Reg. John, that Lime looked a bit tired mate. Nice work gentle lemons!

John, I am in the market for a new truck. I currently have the Navara 190 hp model but think I am going for an Isuzu Utah. If you buy the Amarok I'll have it off you in 6 months when you stick it on Arbtrader.

Apart from me mate. I didn't like the Geckos at all. They didn't fit me the few times I used them but I think my main problem was with the actual gaff. Not for me... A few years later I ended up using the CF Geckos. My mate is a similar size to me so the sizing was spot on. I still found them uncomfortable and noticed the bit going under the instep was too proud. Made it impossible to branch walk unless you were on the stilettos. I will stick to my Bashlin Alloys with Velcro wrap arounds. I may go for a set of KK's o just get a spike cender and spacerfor my Bashlins. Built gotta work out how to get it on there.

I bought one of these last week. Don't reckon I'll use it much for treework yet but who knows in future. The cut and climb is 150, I ended up paying 170 for this reduced from 350 gbp. It is for high end mountaineering so supposedly rugged. BUT we all know how trees wreck our gear. Might be worth it for some people though and it is waterproof.

That surfing video was great. Suppose my hobbies are Muay Thai, snowboarding when ever I can in winter. Travel with and without the family.

Great vid mate. I liked that.

Maybe have a look around the Arbtalk forum. I hear there are one or two climbers tend to post here. Good luck with you tickets.

Nice video mate, cutting and editing.

I have found those rab jackets for 70 quid. It is from a discount website I use. I've bought quite a few things from them for between 50-70 % discount. If anyone is interested then pm me you email address and I will send the link.

Great vid mate. Nice cutting.

I think it certainly depends on the size of tree and the type of work you do. Personally I hated the prussic knot full stop. I used to use a klemheist as it was quicker to tie and did t bind up half as much as a prussic. I switched to a VT and climbed on that for a long time now I tend to climb SRT. I think if the tree lends itself to climbing limbs then the prussic can be effective. If you have 10-20 foot sometimes between limbs then getting away from a prussic is a no brainer.

I think MattyF and John Shutler both have that jacket.

Joe just had a look but I didn't start a thread. Do you use Facebook mate? Look me up there is a picture gallery of shots from the job.

Joe. Not there is space for a city type crane 40t for example and space to lay the timber. Crane the tree out with he brush on far easier. Process in the steer and find some one to pick the timber towards the end of the day. Load lorry with crane or Hiab and go home. I did one a few years ago that way. I did a thread on it. Maybe get some ideas from the pics.

I clip onto the treemotion attachment point. That is in the middle. I usually short clip it on the right hand side.

Yup so it is.

On the Kona? It has poploc but it doesn't lock it out completely. Not sure if I have it set up correctly. Is it supposed to eliminate all travel or just reduce it?

Seems to me to be a lot of reinventing the wheel in this thread. Why no just place a krab to the lanyard and the clip that to the attachment point on the saw. Still has a breakaway facility and you can clip the krab into the carytool.

That's good, as we put an apprentice in one and hauled him up in the air by his arse on the rigging line. I am glad we used the correctly rated attachment point.