MattyF
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Everything posted by MattyF
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I remember being told that there.. one of the first trees I did after back in the real world was a Scots pine that had one of the worse ivy infestations I’ve ever seen literally 3” deep spiral indented in to the cambium going up for the last 10 ft of crown after been strangled to death by ivy ... I was going to cut a section out and send it to the Arb department.
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So the haas loop works and is satisfactory old mill?
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That’s all mine is a festive project that I can burn out milling ... crank seal done , saw seems fine not entirely sure if seated the fly wheel side seal deep enough but saw starts first pull idles and revs it’s tits off ... chain brake is shocking... anti vibes feel worse than a genuine stihl ... although I’m fully aware this series of saws when in production where terrible any way, this just seems worse! Overall feels cheap n nasty but all bearings and seals rings are genuine stihl so hopefully will take the abuse of milling.
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I’d rather have a decent climber on the rigging device anyway if it was a complicated operation or a compromised tree as they can read what your doing better , know the loads and what the result of taking lumps off so will let it run or wind it up when needed..it should be common sense but I can think of only one non climbing groundy I would have and trust 100% as opposed to most skilled climbers with experience that I would trust... good climbers make good groundies as they actually look and understand what your doing better in most circumstances .. although helmet coms can make a huge difference, it gets tiresome explaining your every move and wether or not it actually sinks in as I think personally as soon as you stop instructing some people will stop thinking.
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Spent all in 3.2k on this with the wheels and uprated suspension, 90k miles and I know what I would rather drive..problem is now even a shit defender that is rotten with high miles and been ran in to the ground is going to start at 3k
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Another thing to think about is they are highly steal able I’ve heard of at least one a week disappearing around here... make sure your not buying a ringer and your investment has some good security/cut off switches and the like along with pedal clamps!
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If you can ,try and get too drive a 130 loaded up towing a chipper... and then have a think about if you can live with that .... a transit in comparison is pure luxury .. if you do get a Landy get as new as possible or one with a galv chassis that’s had every bit of suspension and brake replaced or uprated... there are plenty of dogs out there so be careful. We run one Landy it’s newish but the brakes are awful , it wallows is noisy and even if you fix all though the cab is cramped no getting away from it.. I would rather take one of our l200’s.
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Bucket Trucks / MEWPs etc - safer than climbing?
MattyF replied to kevinjohnsonmbe's topic in Climbers talk
Taking a lot off the top ....That’s completely different from trimming a hedge or reducing one by a few feet the customer wants lowering. -
I have only heard mine come in once and that was working it hard building a track with the machine going none stop for hours.
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That tuefulberger Xstatic looks good... might replace the horrible static rope I brought recently that’s so bad I’ve forgotten it’s name ! Like climbing on cheese wire , never had a rope milk as bad either!
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The cladding off the small drying shed was left overs that where not quite right for the bigger shed and off cuts, the bigger cladding was two short larch logs and the shingles bent and short lumps of thuja that was good for nothing else but logs , if you have the space you can store anything I guess but it’s good to have a clear out of hoarded stuff and use it other than burn it!
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Bucket Trucks / MEWPs etc - safer than climbing?
MattyF replied to kevinjohnsonmbe's topic in Climbers talk
In doing a conifer hedge like the one in the picture though .. seriously do you need an anchor ?? I have done miles of tall hedges with nothing more than a side strop and maybe a short climbing line for bridging large gaps but there is no way I’m hauling 30m of rope through a hedge, it’s not like there is nothing to grab if you fall ! Use a mewp quite a lot for other Tree work but you can move a lot faster and cover a lot of ground quicker with a topper and double sided hedge cutters and leave a nicer job easily with out one .. if you ever fall in a conifer hedge all you have to do is spread your arms and legs before you get hung up!! Obviously large single conifers or rows of untouched ones being made in to a hedge are the exception but hedges like that? -
Replacement shed with BT poles and I’m guessing around 7-10 tonne (was a long time ago) of larch and Douglas through the mill. I recon this alone payed for a second hand mill what we saved in timber costs. Another drying shed project built out of scraps, the post stones I found buried so thought would be an interesting feature... roof out of of bits of western red cedar cut for shingles, another learning curve! Edit photos wrong way around !
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Aye I find it worrying as I’ve ruined two XRSE crabs on the bottom clip on a haas clipping them to a foot loop.. last two pairs of Andrews I’ve had have not had the foot loop and I’ve near worn out my 4srt one but with the kind of pressure that can destroy a carabiner I’m thinking what will it do to a boot!
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Not as clumpy but probably the best chainsaw climbing boot in terms of movement i have tried , not as comfy on spikes for very long periods , the zermatts where great for that but are a very warm and restrictive boot in comparison.. can’t believe no one has tried the built in foot loop!
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I have never seen a crank in two half’s !
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Not sure either how it’s caused joe , makes no sense if you think about it other than if your spinning on the swivel it’s putting twists in the rope ..I know if I was to do multiple large trees through out the day I would be swearing on the last one ... just seems to encourage massive twists in the rope .. fine if you have the time to lay out and get the twists from stretching 40m of rope between climbs but that’s not the case ... I know I’m not imagining it as other climbers have said the same whilst using a swivel. Give us a shout when your up mark and I’ll treat you in the crown or Cheviot for that swivel... will be interesting to see if it doesn’t make a difference on a single line.
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I love elm ! Try and save any scraps I have lying about , finally got these through the mill the other week And an old cherry log
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You ever had issues with ropes hockling at all james ?
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Yep ... they had a sale on as well that seems to have gone! I’m not entirely sure about the saws though , whilst the 660 sounded a beast even though the seals need doing I’m doubtful about the quality .. just does not feel like a stihl.. need to use it a bit first , basically was going to tach it rich and use it on a mill with a 25” bar so it does not get hammered too much.
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I have played around with swivels in the past on my bridge DDRT and not got on with them , found for some reason it caused the rope to constantly hockle and made self tending and descent a nightmare.. was thinking about giving one another go as I’m now climbing pretty much all SRT but before going out and spending just curios if any one is using one SRT and still has problems with rope hockling ?
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Yes that’s exactly what happened.. is that the symptom of bad crank seals high tick over and even higher revs ? The saw idols and revs ok just high! There is a guy up the road who was a Forestry commission saw tech and still has the proper tools to fit them ... stupidly I didn’t take him up in his offer ! I’ll be going around in a few days !
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Sucking in air like it is running lean ... through the crank seals ... it’s ok , first time I’ve really played with a bigger stihl so interesting to see how they work.
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So finished the saw ... idle is high and the saw absolutely screams ... I think I’m gonna have to re do the crank seals again .. clutch side did not seat right but pushed it in with a screw driver thinking it would be ok .. can’t think of any other reason the idle would be so high.
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So when did they add the SRT floop on the boots ? Didn’t notice it on the above photo. Looks a good idea but don’t want to tear the arse out the boots clipping the haas on.. any one using it and hows it holding out.
