MattyF

Need another set now Dan !

No Mate, don’t think I’ve ever put grease on husky ones so it’s a new one too me... I took them back out looks like I’ll have to order another set , you literally could not move the crank .... not sure what I did wrong so I guess it’s back to the u tube videos to find out.. I’ve done a couple with your supervision before so know to get the big copper mallet out to destress it like that 372 I forgot the bolt on!

Quick question I’ve put the crank seals on and now the crank is difficult to turn, I’ve de stressed it and it was fine ... I’m used to huskys but it should move a lot more freely ??

Aye not worried about the chip it was if I tried to get the bearings out and the case disintegrated! Stuck the cases in the oven and with a g clamp and a bit of flat elm they popped out beautifully ! Spent ages with a can of wd 40 and a compessor and could still see and feel swarf in the bearings so feeling happier they are decent stihl ones in the machine now ...

Also would the seal on this side be put in first?

So today the kit arrived just having a look over , bearings are full of metal swarf, it looks like they have fitted them and then decided to tap out all the screw holes , I have some genuine stihl ones and wondering if I should replace them ... thing that first concerns me is the crank case seems to be made of cheese How is the best way to get the bearings out ?

Wow ... We bored of been racist sexist bigots and now moved on to tearing up people bodies ?

Brought some tractor style tyres for the l200 .. great for this shit weather and off road but has doubled fuel consumption.. did not think that would be possible by changing the wheels !

Been using the cheap ones for about a year now with no problems , I had one unit break /crushed but what happened to it would of destroyed a senna but it cost peanuts to replace.

I would disagree ,step cutting and learning cuts properly so they don’t brake off premature is safer.. it is not acceptable in any way to cut and hold ...that is an industry standard , not saying I don’t do it but it’s in no way unsafe unless the op is out of control... the problem is as soon as a saw user does his nptcs and goes out in to the industry and see every one else cut and holding they see it as the only way And neglect to hone any other skills further or give them a second thought usually with the exception of handling timber because that’s a lot easier than dealing with branch wood. You can quickly set up 3step cuts not have them brake off premature and use two hands too throw them accurately and not damaging the tendons and getting tennis elbow and a range of other ailments in wrists etc from cut n Chuck and it really is a simple skill to learn and faster imo , I’ve seen fellas watch and either think it’s some witch craft and be pretty impressed but it’s really simple... or what a c%#t .... Try not to overlap cuts and make the cuts double the thickness of the branch and go side to side instead of in board or out board unless on small branches as the leverage will just brake them before you get a chance to grab them... if you need to do big bits that you can barely hold then they should probably of been rigged in the first place.

540xp and ms 150 are my go to Climbing saws , can’t stand the 201 and the 200 is unreliable and has bad anti vibes.

Last time I used a silky fully on a reduction...I stick with the ms 150 to tempting to cut and hold with the silky

Silkys are more dangerous than one handing ! I try not to use the things any more as I seem to get complacent and inevitably get idiot rash . I still don’t see why step cuts can not be done predictably unless there is extreme weather. I would not cut a branch I could not cut n Chuck with a step cut any thing bigger needs rigging or you end up like this .. Had to go back up and finish it for him , a proper mess ! Seen it happen so many times , cut and hold done badly isn’t worth the risk.

Practise makes perfect... step cuts hold better side to side , try and do them with the width apart from the cuts double the stem diameter when cutting branches with foliage , if I am dismantling a tree I will set up say 2-4 or more different branches with step cuts and brake them off individually after putting the saw down , it’s quicker than cut and hold.

Waiting for a 066 a few weeks now since ordered .. got some genuine stihl bits waiting bearings and rings , should be a bit of fun over Christmas and keep me off the beer.

They are not to bad once you have done a few , the stop/choke still catches me out sometimes though.

Isn’t the BDB inventor a member on here , surveyor ??

I like the look of this one though.. great idea for those hairy spruce poles you discover you have missed a bit on!

If it works for you [emoji1303] I preferred the Oregon stubai ones , thought they performed a lot better.. but every ones going to have a different opinion and technique.

How do folk find the zz self tends SRT ? I was using it with a long tether and cougar blue non ce and found it really bad , tried to persevere but gave up after a few climbs as I could not see it getting any better.

One end on a footloop the other with a xrse on My hitchclimber wrench set up, some times I will clip on to the harness but find it gets a lot better return on the hitchclimber.

Sad story.. stay safe out there folks... it’s damn hard to put problems and worries and stresses and dead lines to one side and concentrate on a job, no one is perfect. thoughts out to his family and the people who witnessed it happen.

Sorry, just read first post ! Husky man myself

So this was a brand new stihl?

You want about 200 psi so need a decent pump