MattyF
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Everything posted by MattyF
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Turn and a quarter should be safe if there is no air leak with stihl carbs or copies I guess ? Always set mine to that.
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Just Allen keys I thought.
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Did think the same !
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I would just use normal fuel , I do not think larger carbs are as prone to petrol issues as the smaller ones in two strokes... obviously stale fuel is not great so I would probably drain it if it’s been in there for months to be safe... it would be cheaper to get it gold plated than run it on aspen though.
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So your using the haas as well as a foot ascender? It should work ,mine system will tend efficiently at around 2-3m. The trick is and it’s not some thing I do often my self unless there is a lot of thriffy growth in the way messing up my ascent by taking weight off the tail is tie a heavy throw bag on the tail so it’s hanging a few feet off the ground and keeping it taught... failing that I’ll get the groundy to keep the tail tight for a few metres , it think the technique will come the more you do it with out realising... I’m not sure there is one tbh just practice until you get to where it should be with a throw bag on the tail. What rope are you using ?
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Pics or it didn’t happen vesp... nice story though.
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The climber in Vespasians vid .. the legendary Graeme Mcmahon Top friction lessons the forces on the spar , if your using a friction device on the bottom your doubling the forces at the top... I have a safe block but pretty much only use it for defective trees , most of the rigging I do I will use a block pulley as it’s usually in tight situations and the ability to pull branches off targets or pre tension lines in necessary. I did a job recently though where it was a proper hike to the job a big tree over a wall and none of us could be bothered to carry anything!!it felt invigorating using natural crotch rigging for the first time in years but worrying about the damage on my £150 rigging line !
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I do have a tacho now so will try and find out what it should be and try again , thing screams but not sure if that’s the none oem exhaust.
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Really nice that james [emoji1303]
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Found a few bits of maple , maybe too small ?
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What is the deal with rippled sycamore? I’ve logged up loads as always thought it was pretty worthless but some one told me how much they had got for a stick a while back and I shuddered!
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Will have a look
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Still plenty of time on that one , need to check the plug colour.. still think it’s running lean.
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I only give you the dirty ones Steve.
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Nice saws, you selling them on?
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The metal strip that sits in the plastic casing at the top has a habit of coming out or the plastic lip breaks off , if it has not broken off pry it back in with a combi spanner is usually the easiest way of getting them spot on again.. you have to really look as it’s only a case of barely a few mm.
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What size is a minimum ?
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Older machines had faster rollers but not as much grip on the rollers as the newer ones , also stronger chassis but that may be irrelevant if it’s got tin worm any way... rollers easily changeable though ... We have had 4 stolen over the years amongst all the others I’ve heard of going missing there will be ones that can’t get moved as easily... hence cheaper so check them over thorough. I think they say 400 hours for bearings but I’ve seen them with well over a thousand if looked after and blades changed regularly, check the fins on the fly wheel as they easy get damaged and throw the bearing out. -
Think there was some advertisement for courses up near Penrith , plenty of b&bs up that way!
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Igland make great winches ,should be around 5T pull but I would be very careful about buying any second hand winch.. I would try and have a play with it first , clutch could be knackered.. on igland web site it says there 5t winch is rated for tractors up to 90bhp ... have never ran a small winch on a bigger tractor so have no idea what would happen ,possibly burn the clutch out??
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Does not seem to be any hi viz ones in stock any where.... apart from one full price I saw on eBay.
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Same as stubby.
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I know you don’t want to hear it but try and climb SRT fully.. I was starting to think my career was over a few years back with tennis elbow, tendons sticking out my hands,knacked wrists and shot shoulders !! but the haas and ct foot ascender has given me years more back in the game and not only that it keeps you fresher to work longer so much more so than pulling your body with your hands and arms about all day.. the transition was hard and I still have quite a bit of pain in my joints and pins and needles but nothing like near what it was .. it used to keep me awake .. another thing is to be careful what saws you use , it’s amazing how crap anti vibes mess up your joints.. it’s hard but put the 200 t or ms460 down and pick up a new spring mounted modern saw..but you should feel the difference after a few months if your grip is being effected as well.
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I remember being told that there.. one of the first trees I did after back in the real world was a Scots pine that had one of the worse ivy infestations I’ve ever seen literally 3” deep spiral indented in to the cambium going up for the last 10 ft of crown after been strangled to death by ivy ... I was going to cut a section out and send it to the Arb department.
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So the haas loop works and is satisfactory old mill?
