peatff
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Everything posted by peatff
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It's a 64cc saw I wouldn't think it was up to milling for long anyway. The oil oozing out has to be bar oil so it's probably a pipe split but if you don't tinker or dismantle it you'll be no wiser whatever is suggested. You've already had the clutch off and the sprocket and bearing out it's only a couple more screws to get at the oil pump and see what the problem is.
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I picked some up a few weeks ago. The woman whose garden it was in was glad to get rid and not have to pay someone for the job. The cutters had promised to come back for it but never showed
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Iphones after the 4s are not bad to do. I've done a few 6 and 6s and they are a doddle.
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Stretch a leg of your tights over it and crack on?
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I looked at an 088 shortly after I had my second hernia operation. I lifted it 2" off the ground and then walked (limped) slowly away from it.?
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My friend had one and every time he fixed one thing another went wrong. It never ran well.
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How the hell do you hear that when the saw is running and you have ear protectors on The gasket doing the work is trapped between two layers of metal how can it make it leak? Oil will find the path of least resistance eventually, having colourant helps you spot it sooner and tells if it's oiling the bar so can only be a good thing.
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It's a petrol electric hybrid, a bit like the Toyota Prius of the saw world.
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The plugged line is a tank breather
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I don't use a vacuum, the opposite is my favourite. I use a blow gun on the compressor but make sure you have a mask and face/eye protection. Blow down before you start stripping.
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Bolt too long and has a shank
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That's my old climbing saw. Wasn't plastic invented then ?
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I resemble that remark and feel it is an insult to people who OOh look dicky birds....
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I was looking at splitters and settled on an ebay purchase from woodmanstore, a Black tools 18t splitter. It works in horizontal and vertical and is a good strong tool. I haven't found anything it will not tackle yet. If it doesn't split it minces the wood. My friend gave me a piece his home made splitter wouldn't touch to test it and it just cruised through it. There is a 2 way head with it but the wood gets trapped in it and has to be pushed out so I am looking at a modification. It is towable but they do a 22t model with suspension which would be nicer on the road.
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Wouldn't that cause it to cut a wider kerf ? It would cause it to cut round corners like having one set of cutters sharper.
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Wife and I were walking across a field with sheep in it a few years ago and she noticed all the sheep had disappeared. We turned round to look where they were and they were following about 10 yards behind us roughly 60 sheep in a big V formation. It was funny. Glad he's got something sorted, money back is a result.
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No it's almost back to perfect, it's just not how you want it to be ? Fence it and chuck a few pigs and goats in there it will soon look better.
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Never tied it, I cut wood that's been dumped down at the farm by a local tree surgeon and some of it has been stood for years but normal chains work fine on it. There has been Hornbeam in with it but I think the hardest wood I come across is some biggish Hawthorn. The worst thing for the chains is going into the ground or sometimes you get a stone in the actual wood. I've been using the Northern Arb Rotatech chains because they are cheap and they work well for the job.
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If there is it's not going to be the MS391, that's a farmer, home user chainsaw. More forestry oriented would be something like a Stihl MS362 if you are going the Stihl route. Holding their money is not a very good reason to buy a saw once you cut with them they are used and anyone will only pay what they think it's worth, you don't have a verified service history.
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With the twin spikes roller chain catcher in place do you need to unbolt it to get the clutch side cover off ? Scratch that, I just looked at a kit with the roller and it just pushes through the inner spike.
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Don't know what it is but it will be well seasoned ?
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Friend of mine has had one a couple of years now and it's still in the box with batteries that have never been charged, cost a few hundred quid as well from an exhibition at NEC.
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That's how we learn in my opinion but then again I do have a vague idea and am not an idiot (well in my opinion, others may differ). Has he checked the obvious stuff like is there a spark and is fuel getting into the cylinder. My go to when all else fails is to put a drop of fuel straight into the cylinder and warm the plug then give it a pull with no choke after checking there is a spark. Has he checked the piston for scoring ? I know it shouldn't on a new saw but it's best to be sure but if you can't take the silencer off and put it back on again without leaving evidence that could invalidate the warranty like us idiots can then sending it back is your only option. ;)
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Turn the adjusters in then out again 1 1/4 turns each and turn the tick over up a bit just to start with then follow the start procedure. Pump the bubble, I usually give mine 8 or 10 pumps then pull the choke lever out and lift it up. Put your foot through the handle and pull the cord till the saw coughs then push the lever down without touching the trigger and pull it over again and it should start on fast idle. Give it 10 seconds then pull the trigger to disengage fast idle and run it. I find they start easier without the chain brake on but it's not always advised. The mixture screws are splined and the tick over is a straight, has he got the proper driver ? Whereabouts are you and who did you buy it from. Local help may be available from someone who uses saws regularly. Did he not use it for a month after it stopped working ?
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Stihl and Rotatec 3/8" pitch - different file sizes
peatff replied to arboriculturist's topic in Chainsaws
I use Rotatech chains but I usually sharpen them with the electric sharpener. I have used files to do them with no problems.
