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About Indian_cola

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  1. All running good now. decomp valve at fault. And of course my error in the carb.. but yeh thanks so much for all your help!
  2. The ones before the air filter? If dust can’t be in there the saw has a major design flaw ha
  3. Hopefully it will be the fuel sorted now! gave the air tube inlet things a real good clean today too they very thick with petrol/dust gloop. took the bellows off as I could see dust/ gloop in them where I’ve been disturbing stuff and have them cleaned them up good with soap and air. took decomp valve off, pretty dirty tried getting carb cleaner in there and open closing loads and I duno if I imaging it but I think it’s closing better. Ordered a blank plug too tho to retest with. thanks so much again guys.
  4. Hi thank you for so many helpful replies people. very embarrassed to say, pump diaphragm and gasket order wrong. can’t believe it so simple almost didn’t want to admit it. moving on.... some pictures for you. Looks pretty smooth right? I don’t know if I want to dismantle the bellow to get a look at inlet side unless you guys think I need too? might try a bolt in the decompression valve hole to see if that is causing loss of compression? Is that a done thing? I don’t ever remember moving or tilting effecting idle so guessing it’s not crank seals? thank you so much for help and support people!
  5. Yes pipes all went back on same way. Checked yesterday with a parts diagram. Yes rings seem free enough. the original bad running was bogging on full throttle. after replacing things it was difficult to start, have to blip throttle to keep from cutting out and full throttle was as if power was being cut. It would then cut out completely cut out and would need the purge pressing to get it started again. think tomorrow I’m going to get carb off, check piston. check needle lever Remove purge and triple check legs. I do remember that the bottom of the inner air filter always used to be a bit wet but never knew why or questioned it to much as it always worked. I believe the tank vents into the air filter area. might also top fuel back up and keep purging it and see where the petrol comes from
  6. Forgot to add the small? Amount of scoring I can see is only right on the top.
  7. Thank for all the replies guys. so it’s fairly old, 2010 at a guess. it been used of course but not heavily or regularly. just put compression reader on, it says 115psi. so bit more story for you. was running iffy, took carb off for clean, bit of super fine dust in there. Thought okay found problem. back on, still running bit crap. Around this time I check compression it was about 145. pull cord breaks. Keep calm, it’s old no big deal, wasn’t hard to start or anything like that. fix cord, still runs bit crap, that’s when I buy all the genuine bits, put it all back on and it runs super bad. something I’ve done made it run super lean? , push petrol out to filter and **************** the compression? I will avoid the cheap carbs as much as I can. Bad experience with one on a ms180 before to me and in my fairly small experience the piston don’t look that bad. The rings move and the back wall looked smooth. I could take the carb off and get a look from other side too. hoping maybe the compression valve is bad?? And the kink in my fuel line was the fuel problem. when the carb is off I can check the needle lever. Thanks a lot guys!
  8. Hi, sorry not a chainsaw but you guys have lots of useful knowledge. saw been running bad, put new genuine filters and plug on. no better, cleaned carb, rebuilt with genuine gaskets and diaphragms and replaced the 4 hoses around the carb with genuine Stihl hose and also genuine primer. after this running real bad, go to investigate and the air filter is full of fuel. I did find slight slight kink in line from tank to carb. could that do that? I check the primer bulb is plumbed correct, and it appears to be. Do I need to swap the legs around on it? mall went back together the way it came off Any ideas?? big thanks


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