se7enthdevil
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Everything posted by se7enthdevil
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as long as the thread goes the right way it will never come off... good looking saw.
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if you are going to do a fair amount of them i would simply make a template from ply and use a router to take out all unwanted material but make sure you score around any edges that may break out.
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i was referring to sloth but good to hear more people are taking it up, with any luck less beautiful wood will go straight on the fire...
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never too late to get back in to it mate...
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any crown cut board is invariably unstable as it is highly sensitive to radial shrinkage and expansion with the first few boards being the worst affected... nearer the middle of the tree you will still get cupping down the middle of the board so wider boards 25-30" are usually split in to 12-15" widths and then put in a kiln or stacked for air drying. the very middle of the tree can be quarter sawn and will obviously yield the most stable stock. not all beech is horrible and unstable. it's been used for centuries in furniture and kitchenware and i don't think it deserves the bad reputation it has. i use it for my skittles and as long as its dried correctly it's perfectly good wood. the reason people hate it is that it like to dry very quickly naturally and splits because of this. as long as you control the process you have an excellent material to use.
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when i started my joinery apprenticeship i bought a yellow handled set from b&q 13 years ago and i'm still using them... you don't need to spend big bucks. this page could be of some help. Woodworking Tools - An Independent furniture maker's Report
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for me the question is, is it dust or shavings? as a woodturner my shavings (wet or dry) go to a chicken farmer and the dust from my ripsaw, bandsaw and chopsaw go either to the tip or a mate took some for his chemical toilet.
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been at the mulled wine already me thinks...
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genetics i think mate. as you say some trees only live 80-100 years but some can be thousands. i'd guess conditions have a part to play.
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those prices are better than most timber yards to be fair. i do tend to try my best at getting a cheap price if i can but that usually means buying in bulk. 2 or 3 cubic meters at a time gets a good price... i should point out min is not top grade joinery as i only need it for skittles so just need a solid bit of wood rather than an unblemished one.
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say who:001_tt2: if its a nice bit of wood i won't ask for it for nowt... green wood regardless of species i pay about 10-15 quid ft3. i buy 4" kiln dried beech at £18. kd oak is usually quite pricey and the cheapest i've found is £30 ft3 sycamore should be roughly the same as beech.
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interesting to hear you had someone have a reaction to the dust. was it bad???
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can anyone point me out a good file for sharpening chains with as i've lost my cheapo one and wish to buy a proper one.
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no one mentioned cedar mate (except yourself) and i didn't think cedar was in any way toxic. i notice you spelled it lebenum when i believe it's spelled lebanon. it's no relation to laburnum.
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i'm a great believer in leaving the wood as nature intended so i won't fill a hole if i see it, however i did fill the exposed pith on part of the base as it created a long channel that look very unsightly. all the platters have warped but i'm happy to say that this was the worst looking bit regarding warp and obviously the split pith. that's why i turned it as i thought if this bit can be turned then the rest should be fine. i've made a note to rough turn it slightly thicker next time as parts of it are only 3/8"-1/4" thick and on a platter 22" wide it can be worrying if it starts to vibrate... the rest are a bit bigger so i hope they aren't too thin eventually.
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just an update on the handles performance. i've put it through it's paces and i've been given no trouble whatsoever. it's kept outside and just brushes off any weather conditions as well as holding up to the shock of plenty of high speed impacts and not giving me any probs when i embed the axe in the wood and swing axe and lump up and over to use the back of the axe as an impact point letting the weight of the lump split it's self. use robinia as it's great stuff...
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those are absolute corkers mate, mine is also a crotch but nowhere near as good looking as those... you got none spare then???
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vegetable oil is a good all round safe one for food.
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just started to turn some of that gorgeous walnut from delabodge and its stunning... just one coat of danish on the outside so far. i'm going to try to build up layers to give it a proper sheen... .
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nice one mate, for me that's got to be the way forward. i know it's more work but i think it looks loads better than just screwing them on the base.
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i had a bit of mahonia given to me recently and the bark looks nothing like the picture so i don't think it's a mahonia. acacia has a rancid smell and a 1/2" of white sapwood so would be easily identifiable. here is what mahonia bark looks like.
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my number is 01628666191. i'm here all day, any luck i'll see you later.
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i prefer the other variety, it's big brother. (growme fiftyquidium)
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googleing red berries i think it may be a sweetbay magnolia, (magnolia virginiana)
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rough saw it in to the sizes you require then seal the ends and leave it in the workshop for a year. next year you can do what you like with it...
