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About JaySmith

  • Birthday 06/01/1982

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  1. I use a TM and I’ve got a 27in waist. As Joe says there is plenty of adjustment within the harness. I would say anything under 26in waist and the main strap across the waist wouldn’t really be tight enough.
  2. I’ve got a mk1 550. I had an 18 on it to start with but tend to run the shortest bar on my saws. Changed it to a 16 with 3/8 and also got Spud to port it, now you have to hold on for dear life! For me the 16 is the best compromise and it’s a little ripper for chogging down when moving up from a 12 inch 200.
  3. I did the L2 many years ago so the syllabus may have changed but if you are looking for information on tree inspections then documents such as the NTSG doc is what you need to look at https://www.forestresearch.gov.uk/documents/7075/FCMS024.pdf What is the exact question?
  4. Impossible question to answer as everybody is different. What one climber will like another will detest. Best bet is to go along to Honey’s or Jones’s etc and try some on. I climbed on an American import harness for years before moving to a treemotion and they are at opposite ends of the spectrum. Try them on before you part with your cash
  5. Flexi pace can be expensive in the first instance. However when you are re patching the same area on a regular basis there becomes a point where engineering solutions such as flexi pave work out more cost effective long term. It’s just the upfront cost that is often seen as a negative.
  6. The L4 is a big undertaking, it’s possible to do it in under nine months but say goodbye to life as you know it! If you have L3 and experience it would be worth speaking with insurers to see if they are happy with that. If you go down the PTI route read up on fungi, p and d and survey techniques. Do some dummy surveys in a park, assess the trees using the same methodical manner and record the results and the works you would prescribe. I haven’t done the mortgage report writing course as it’s not an area I’m involved in but from speaking to others they have seen an uptake in this kind of work so depending on cost Vs return maybe worth doing. Recruiters such as Complete Tree Care often have part time surveyor roles so depending on where you are this may be worth looking into.
  7. It will largely depend on how much surveying work you have done previously. PTI will obviously help but if you only have climbing experience you may find the PTI hard going. The AA do an intermediate tree inspection that bridges the gap between the basic tree inspection and the PTI. If you have done lots of quoting and some survey work this will help. I would be looking to do L4 if you haven’t already got something like the old tech cert or ND Arb. Although it isn’t a legal requirement to have these qualifications in order to get professional indemnity you will need more than NPTC’s to satisfy the underwriters. There are often jobs advertised for freelance surveyors for council contracts or for larger consultancies who need ad hoc help. Typically these may be surveying street of trees for a set price per tree. Not the most exciting work but gets you a foot in the door. With the building industry busy you may also get BS5837 work as well. A bit more info on your current qualifications and survey experience as well as location would help.
  8. For me I think advances in techniques and equipment will mean that people can climb for a lot longer than say 15 years ago. It still makes me chuckle when I see people using a prussik with no cambium saver, to me that’s like parking the truck on the roadside and hand balling the timber when you can reverse up to the tree and chuck it in. A lot also has to do with your lifestyle and fitness. A lot of climbing is about strength and power to weight but also cardio fitness which is often overlooked. If you are doing a big beech thin and are in the tree for 6+ hours you need a decent cardio base to keep going. Personally I run marathons and race most long distances , as a result I run between 70 - 100 + miles a week, this gives a massive advantage when it comes to climbing. I’m also just over 9 stone so don’t have a lot of bulk to lug around which can be handy. There will be some instances where my size works against me, but the majority of the time it is of benefit and a lot of it is down to technique and working a tree in a smart methodical manner. I would assume that a business owner/operator will continue climbing later in their career as they can pick and choose jobs. Contract climbers probably have the shortest time frame as they are brought in to do all the big dirty stuff that others don’t want to or can’t do.
  9. The older ones were as I understand it build on the 5 ton chassis. I used to drive a 63 plate one and that was a ‘wide cab model’ which was repeatedly built on the same chassis as a 5 ton cab. I’m not sure about the newer ones as they seem a lot lot smaller overall. When I parked the 63 plate next to a 7.5t there wasn’t much in it, the plus points were that it pulled like a train and looked like a bigger truck. So much so that VOSA didn’t take an interest in it as it always carried the weight well. The N35 stickers were removed when it was sign written and even when I dropped it into Isuzu for serving they always questioned what weight it was. However it weighed 3300kg empty so was potentially overloaded with 2 guys and some cones in the box!
  10. Your system sounds similar to that of Valid developed by David Evans whereby it becomes acceptable, tolerable, not tolerable etc. Thing with trees, even those with ADB are all unique and what you do will depend on the targets and likelihood of failure. I’m just not too sure a score based system would work Vs a conventional survey. Many years ago an insurance company moved to a height system for tree removal pricing which a number of contractors ditched as the height didn’t take into account the actual work involved. For example you could get a 20ft oak at the bottom of a garden with a 1100mm dbh for a couple of hundred pounds and take four guys a day or more to deal with if access was poor. To counter that you could get a 50ft ash with a 300mm dbh and post it into the chipper. Swings and roundabouts I guess
  11. Sure, appreciate that roots can impact the drop of pipe work thus causing further issues down the road. However in this instance given the size of the stem and overall tree size not sure it would be an issue here. But agree I would remove as I said to begin with.
  12. You will always get people who will be on more than the numbers I’ve ‘punted’ there. There will be guys who are paid more because they bring more to the party such as fixing kit, running complex jobs, go quoting, undertaking surveying etc the list is endless because of the variables involved. The aim was to give the OP a guide for the area I’m in, I’ve got three mates who all run their own firms and these are the rates they are paying.
  13. Probably not the best bit for planting having a tree that close to drainage when it looks as though it could have been planted in a different location. It is often accepted that tree roots cannot penetrate drains are fully serviceable and intact, however if there are small cracks or fractures roots will often enter and exploit the new water source which is not what you want unless you are friendly with your local drainage contractor. This will potentially lead to issues down the line. If it were me I would remove the tree due to the proximity to the drains and the house and replant something else where on the property. I struggle to see the long term viability of a tree like that with the conflicting landscape features.
  14. Regional variations will always be there. For Kent where I am, for guys on the books I think you would be looking at something like this: Groundie who can use chipper and saw, limited experience - £80 - £100 a day Competent Groundie/2nd climber aerial rescue - £95 - £110 a day Good climber who can undertake a wide range of duties and also do large trees - £110 - £130 a day Top draw climber/team leader who can do pretty much everything like crane work, run large jobs, other skills such as fix machines etc - £130 - £160 a day. I know of guys subbing who are charging between £160 and £200 per day. Obviously there will be exceptions to this but this is just a snap shot and based on three firms in my immediate area.
  15. It’s ok but personally I don’t think it’s a great shape. Too hard on the 10 and 2 o clock areas if looking at a clock face. Not enough curve for me, the top left is higher than the centre point and bottom right sticks out too far. However that being said certainly not as bad as some you see for sure.


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