scraggs
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Everything posted by scraggs
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Good luck with that if you are involved in a serious accident or get pulled by vosa. it's something we will have to disagree on.
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Ifor Williams/Other Trailer with Hi-Ab built on.
scraggs replied to WillTimberlake's topic in General chat
Isn't that some what hugely overloading a 1500 ? Someone local has just had a pc2700 put on a twin axle ifor by web hydraulics in suffolk, haven't seen it close up but it looks a very nice setup from a distance. Nice thing about stiff boom cranes is the weight saving you get with them, but for taking pallets off I needed a knuckleboom but at the cost of payload. -
I have come across a couple of 130's rated at 3050kg, so you need to check the plate. generally you need front bump stop spacer and longer bolts front springs rear springs rear helper springs helper spring top and bottom holders Heavy duty rear shocks Not sure on anti-roll bars, it's listing that the 3500kg has a front one fitted. there may be other odd bits but there is plenty out there on the net you you have a hunt about, trouble is you will probably find that changing the springs ends up replacing the spring base plates and retainers and other odds and sods. get the parts manual off the net to get all the part numbers.
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anything was possible with LRSV, depended on what was on the shelf I think Am finding my LR rear and helper springs a pretty hard and uncomfortable ride at the moment, wishing I had gone with air assist bags now.
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If you go through the parts catalogue they are the same discs and calipers, my utility spec 130 has the same front and rear braking as my 3050kg 110 hicap. so although he has that fitted you don't need it to uprate to 3500kg we are uprating our hicap when it has it's new chassis.
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As far as I am aware uprating to 3500 differences are, extenders on the front bump stops, front springs are 90 rears iirc, salisbury rear axle which were fitted to all hi cap pickups regardless of weight rating, and finaly rear helper springs. strengthened chassis were generaly specked by utility companies when they ordered them new, it is not essential as I found out when I had to replace a utility spec chassis.and as far as I am aware the brakes are the same. If you can find a good landy dealer they might be persauded to order you an uprated plate, which is the proper way to do it. Will try to get some pics of my rebuilt 130 up now it is finaly on the road
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Ifor Williams/Other Trailer with Hi-Ab built on.
scraggs replied to WillTimberlake's topic in General chat
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Ifor Williams/Other Trailer with Hi-Ab built on.
scraggs replied to WillTimberlake's topic in General chat
I have just bought a 14ft tri axle ifor with a bonfiglioli knuckle boom fitted last week. I have yet to really give it a try out but will say that the nose weight is a bit of a problem when empty and the crane needs to be opened out to the back of the trailer bed but it tows really nicely set up like that, once loaded I just fold it up, this one is built into the front part of the body and not on the drawbar so although it is a 14ft it has 12ft of usable bed. It's way cheaper to find a small lorry with crane, but that wasn't a route I wanted to go down again. -
Any sign of the digger and trailer ? Sadly it's true that they will probably get a slap on the wrist and be asked to promise never to do it again.
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Don't bother with the reminders, get yourself around there knocking on the door, ignoring a reminder is easy but people generally pay when you confront them.
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Should be, take the beading out around the edge of the panel (usually needs something thin and strong) like a really good narrow scraper, then the panel should come out.
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wooden frame with a mesh at 45* angle, use 8ft high 4x4" posts at front and 4ft at rear then box it in, put a mesh over it to whatever size you want to sort down to. I have used this method for years to sort soil when there isn't enough to warrant putting a powerscreen on the job. Load it from the back and not the front for best/quickest results
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I considered an ibex instead of rebuilding my 110 but aside from the fact they are fugly, at £8k for the basic shell I couldn't see any benefits unless I had to buy a lot of new body panels to get the defender up to scratch, and the resale value will be crap compared to the defender. Also all the body panels are glued on which is ok until you bend it.
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I do drive like an old fart though
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I am getting about 25-27mpg out of my 300tdi hicap towing at 3500kg
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I was comparing the flatbeds, nugents 14'x6'.6" tri axle is 1100kg compared to ifors 845kg.
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Does the ifor ramps include the ramp fitting kit that you need for the tipper in that price ? The Nugent flat beds look nice but are very heavy.
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The deutz will power that a treat I stuck one of those for a while on a vermeer 630a when the lomardini on it gave up the ghost, it just chugged it's way through stuff so easily, but was way to heavy for it. I will watch this thread with interest.
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After recently having my fourth theft in under a year the only real solution to stop them is a shotgun.
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Not sure which titebond you used but we used titebond 3 on the front bent section of my camper and it's still holding strong after over 3 years.
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I have to agree with the above, we are just considering buying a new trailer with crane on it and that is mounted on a new ifor tri axle which doesn't look too bad quality wise, but there has been a lot of corners cut in the newer designed tippers, and in trying to reduce the weight they made them very flimsy and not man enough like the older tippers were. I was speaking to the dealer about some issues on mine the other day and he admitted that they have had complaints about the new floor. Buy mine if you like, i'll be happy to see the back of it tbh I wonder how many people rating the ifors actually own a new style one, and if they have a new style is it there first ifor tipper or have they owned previous ifor tippers.
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For the fear of sounding like a broken record I will link to this on my latest ifor tipper The raised floor joints are also now bending from pallet bearers sitting on them, and a new one this week is the dropside posts have cracked the welds and are starting to get cracks in the plate where they bolt in place. I would be buying a brian james next time if it was a tipper, they look a much nicer built trailer.
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I know someone who used to use a husky, the serated lip on the rear flap is a hazard, he slipped whist reversing it off the truck and it sliced straight into his leg, that said they do a really nice job, but don't look very professional imo.
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A camon (BCS) C8 would be ideal, the bigger one's are nice but they make a fair jump in price once you go above the C8 if buying new. We have had the bigger ones but found them a bit of a pain to get them into tight places.
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There is/was something available to spray the docs with but I can't remember what it is, have used it once on a freshly seeded area quite a few years ago mind. Any good agronomist who deals with turf should be able to suggest something.
