Rob D

Looks a great way to dry wood and a bit of adaptation i.e. on pallets somehow would make it loadable.

Thanks Si!

I've got a dewalt 18v and makita 18v... although it sounds like the hitachi one is better than these from another post on this thead. But if you're going to crack them off and do final tighten manually these impact drivers will do the rest no prob. I use them all the time on my furniture driving index screws into hardwoods.

I have a system I got of ebay. Definition is good and you can watch over the internet or your iphone BUT it took me a long long time to get it all working.... And there is a major drawback with IP cameras (cameras you can view over the internet) - without going into all the technical detail if your hub switches off and on or refreshes your external IP address changes. And if this changes then when you dial in to look at your cameras the address set up in your phone/computer will be different from the one your hub now has. The only way you can then get the new address is to go to your hub and find it out manually then put the new address into your phone. This is not a problem if you have stable power supply and hub but if your hub starts playing up it knackers the system.... You can get a static IP address which doesn't change but this apparently costs a lot and is not a one off cost but something you rent monthly. You also have to figure out how to 'port forward' i.e. when you want to view remotely your hub needs to forward you to the DV and this is where you pull your hair out understanding the difference between external and internal IP addresses.... All that said my system cost £370-00 inc vat + the cost of monitor for 4 IP cameras with infra red. Now the landlord saw the set up and got some cameras from Maplins but the definition and picture is no where near as good and nor is the playback. I'm going to do an article type thread on my camera system on my chainsawbars sponsered forum and I'll set it up so people can PM me for the IP address and password and see what it's like to remotely access them.

If it's fencing type material i.e. up to 8" then I'd go for a swingmill as they are fully portable, can at a pinch mill up to 6 foot diameter and are fast and accurate. The down side is you cannot do wide boards. But if you only want a few wide boards just use an Alaskan.

If it was in good nick good ol ebay will prob get you £500+ as long as you can ship UK wide and the pics are good. Would be a good milling saw.

My pennys worth Stevie is : Go round looking and using mills with people before you buy anything as milling is not really an 'out of the box' thing. The two main choices are bandsaw or swingmill (circular saw Peterson or Lucas). They're both very different. What are you going to do with all the timber you produce? This is by far and wide the important question as it will determin what machine you want. Producing milled timber is easy compared to selling it (I've found anyways). There is no perfect mill that will do everything so I would say do a good few months of research before you take the plunge! Try and work with people who have them.

Ho ho - thought that as well.... a smudge with a blow torch and that would clinch it!

I've been thinking the same thing about also having builders bulk bags (0.65 cube) as an option. I could then do a mixed bag for £55-00.... But the .065 cube bags are almost the same price as the cube bags... A tricky one as I'd like to stick to my guns with the cubic meter bags but educating the public how volume relates to price is proving a very uphill battle..... Yep... it's a tricky one alright

Bricked myself when I first started spiking - and it doesn't help when they occasionally kick out but you do get used to it the more you do it. Stick at it

I know what you mean.... there's prob so many things that could be used for but if there's no demand for what you saw then it's tricky to justify getting it milled..... looking around at some of the stacks of timber in my yard testifies to that.....

I think you may struggle to find someone who wants the timber.... I expect they could be used for something (as all wood could be used for something).....!

Woken up at 5.30am this morning and it is howling

Love the log arch very good

Ho ho! If you do get stuck and have forgotten your wallet give a friend/family member a call and ask the petrol station to do a transaction with 'cardholder not present'. They're not supposed to..... but it can be a way out.

Excellent - thanks for the tip and good link.

Doh should have read through the later posts...

Ditto above. Reduce all the easy to reach bits of the crown first in small stages then re assess. If you haven't a pole saw then a saw with a longer bar can be handy....

Alright Josh - I think the GB bars prob have the least sag. There does seem to be much more floppiness after 50" i.e. 50" wilts a bit but the 60"+ wilt a lot! At some point I'll do a stiffness test (which I'll look forward to ) and line the bars up supported at one end.

Just seen this! Nasty Stevie hope it heals quickly and you're back working again. Thankfully no bone and tendon damage it shouldn't take too long.

Stihl do a 47" solid nose bar and yet as everyone says the nose gets hot and saps power.... yet they have a 59" Rollamatic bar with a sprocket nose (it is available but harder to get). This is more or less the same price as the 47"... So why not make a 48" sprocket nose bar? Oregon do make longer bars but currently the longest available in the UK is 36".... The reason they don't import longer bars into the UK? - because apparently there is no market for them :confused1: Cannon make a full range up to 60" and are good if pricey. They seem a little thinner than GB. GB make bars up to 87" based on their harvester bars. They are heavier than the cannon equivalent. Trouble is you need to buy in around 30 a time in each bar length and the exchange rate at the mo makes them expensive....

I think there's prob more chance of it happening if you're climbing o9n your own rather than with others about.... I don't climb much at all now but a lot of it comes down to thinking positive. You need to counter any negative thoughts quickly as although they do help to keep you safe too much of them can have the opposite effect.

Cheers for the offer but have ordered 5 litres of Toms stuff.... also going to get some syringes for injecting it into the wood.

An easy way to do it is every load you drop off to a customer say that you do the same amount for a third off in the summer... I did about 20 green loads this summer....

Good luck with it Dave - amazing how the body gets so habituated to things like this.... Would it be worth rather than going cold turkey to ease down gradually? Would probably be better for you if you can do it like that. Give yourself a schedule. I expect you'd have less withdrawal symptoms.