Rob D
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Everything posted by Rob D
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This year I've called BT Broadband technical 19 times with issues with poor service or no service. In each instance it's been their fault either on the the line or exchange etc etc etc etc ... But it's wearing thin now. I've filled in their complaints forms and then get a call saying 'sorry about this' ... but the only thing they suggest is calling the technical helpdesk again. What do you do? They seem powerless to act other than their prescribed script and I can't face the same battery of tests they keep asking me to do. It gets fixed, lasts a week or two then something happens. Did a speed test just now and it amounts to 0.18 Megs Is there a way of speaking to someone with the power to actually fix things?
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I do feel sorry for anyone having their gear nicked but shouldn't have said 100% sure and then not be right! Prob because they said they were 100% is why the riot van was there.... But nice to hear the police are following up leads like this.
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Best thing would be to cut the root plate off and take a pic immediately before the outside dries so the size of the sapwood ring can be seen and more importantly how dark the heartwood is. Roughly where is it?
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To sell a root is rare and there is very little demand for it despite the massive amount of myth surrounding them being worth a fortune. Good pics by the way..... this walnut is not worth a lot as it is not that large and also it has a large sap ring. Colourwise (of the heartwood) looks average to good though. Would be good for rustic furniture and is def worth planking.
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I usually go by the motto if it ain't broke.... But if there is any problem at all engine wise i.e. not idling, difficult to start, then first thing to do is replace the spark plug.
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What do interlink say about it being delivered to the incorrect address and also have you knocked on the door of the address it was delivered to and asked them if they signed for a parcel? I don't think the delivery drivers are allowed to leave at another address unless asked to do so.
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What a great vid - I liked some of the camera angles i.e. camera getting the sawdust in it's face - not seen that before - very effective
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I'm going to re saw it and see how it goes.... but what I've sawn so far half has shake but half comes out beautifully.... no knots knots or anything. Apparently it planes up easily despite it's density. Will post some pics up as I go.... thanks for the replies.
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Alright John. Keep your eye on ebay as well as sometimes saws come up.... The older saws are Stihl 070,075,076,084,088,090 and also slightly smaller 050,051 will have plenty torque. Not sure about big old huskys but also Dolmar 166 is a big un. cc size can be found here Bill's Saw Shop - Stihl chain saw specifications But of course you take your chances secondhand.....
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It's £48-00 + vat and £4-00 per pack of 3 grinding stones. Just go here Chainsawbars ? bars, chains and chainsaw accessories and register and I'll set the discount. They do give as good an edge as a round file and as good a shape without bluing the tooth. But like everything the more you use it the better the results.
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Thanks - I read that but it doesn't say anything about burning it. I know all smoke goes up the chimney but these days being what they are just wondering how toxic if at all the smoke is.
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So fine to sell as firewood you think? I'm going to be milling a lot of it but I reckon there'll be a fair bit of firewood as well. It burns almost like coal
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I've recently got hold of some greenheart from some old pier pilings. What I've found so far is, it stinks, it's almost as heavy as steel!, it's blunting to a chainsaw, the Peterson mill does well with it, it burns like coal. I've looked over the internet and I can readily find info on it's strength, weight etc but is it a 'safe' wood to sell to people to burn or to burn myself? The splinters can go septic easily and the wood seems to be classed as toxic..... One interesting fact is "75-80 pounds per cubic foot, and about 64 pounds per cubic foot (1030 kg/m3) when air-dry"
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The 12 volt grinders I find great but not everyone gets on with them.... I have done a couple more vids here [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aT5shPjj-i8&list=UU9K0KfLNH84tuWi2VjlSlCg&index=5&feature=plcp]Chainsawbars presents Granberg 12volt precision ginder - G1012XT - YouTube[/ame] this is the precision one. It's fiddly to start with but great for big bars still in the mill as you can sharpen accurately from one side. Or this free hand version [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K11rAKksX98&feature=BFa&list=UU9K0KfLNH84tuWi2VjlSlCg&lf=plcp]Chainsawbars presents Granberg 12volt ginder - Grind and Joint G721 - YouTube[/ame] is the fastest way you can sharpen a chain on the bar but doesn't have the same accuracy.
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Excellent fun!
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https://government-grants.co.uk/air-source.shtml
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Just noticed on the right hand side there is an advert saying 'grants for heat pumps'.... May be you could get a grant towards a more efficient system?
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All sounds fine to me.... it may be just the wood then as I have the same with a lot of the stuff I cut i.e. unless it's very straight and clean no matter how you dry it something will happen - if it stays flat there's be cracks if no cracks then it'll cup....
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Could be too harsh in the first couple of weeks.... If any drying defects occur early on then that's it - there's no reversing it. Also it could be the wood you're cutting - my timber tends to be bendy and through sawn which is a recipe for cupping - this year am going to do much more quarter sawing.
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I can see how these could be useful J - let me know which model you research seems to be the best..... Wouldn't mind giving one a try.
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Autotrek would be the way to go but you'd still have to break the log down to lift it onto the bed and it's assuming that you can get it next to the log..... These fellows have a 66" double ended MS880 mill set up - may be worth asking them Fox Earth
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I've gone away from kilning in batches.... Now I tend to mill a couple of logs and have them in a stack in the kiln on one side. The other side is mainly free but I put in bits and pieces I'm working on in order to get them dry enough to sand and treat i.e. get them down to around 25%. I still think the cheapest method is the polytunnel but it's limited in that to avoid drying defects you have to get everything cut and stacked winter time in order for the wood to be able to take hot summer temperatures.... But if you put 2" timber in there Jan by late August it will be 14% (this is with fans blowing air around the stacks). But you can only do one cycle a year.
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It's for Stihl chain - did you go to the site - all the prices are there? Custom chain loops Also I don't re check every thread I post on so if you need to ask something please send a PM. Thanks.
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Sounds ideal for you John! I've been doing yoga on and off for 5 years now.... In a stage of 'not doing it' at the moment... feel too tired to get out to the classes in the evening I'd say it's one of the most beneficial things you can do in your life but watch out as there are a lot of very bad teachers out there... when they start lighting candles and chanting I tend to get a bit spooked! The benefits are good for body and mind but it's having the motivation to practice regularly as results are not instant.
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Rapid Super chain causing kickback in bore cut? Advice needed!
Rob D replied to Big T's topic in General chat
It would definitely be easier with semi chiesel... You can bore cut with full chisel but there's more likely to be kickback and if it happens more severe.... Did you check the depth gauges? Too low depth gauges could also be the problem.
