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Rob D

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Everything posted by Rob D

  1. All day from 9am to 9pm labeling chains, the storage area and tidying.... a never ending job but got one area now finally sorted... But it was a quiet job!
  2. Nicely done Jon and hope you get plenty of work for your new mill
  3. If it is occasional use then both those saws would prob be fine. With all the hobby/home user type saws there doesn't seem to be one that stands out head and shoulders above the rest. On another note and without being patronising make sure you have chainsaw boots and trousers. These should be bought before buying the chainsaw! Also a short course will save you time and money in the long run. FR Jones organise something here if you live nearby Things you didn't know you needed | F R Jones and Son
  4. I know what you mean Stevie but sometimes if you've had a bad day it's nice to know you're not alone and that there are others that have had worse and are dealing with it!
  5. Your other points I thought were valid and fair enough but this last one just sounds like you have a rather large chip on your shoulder.
  6. I find the e-mail reading on smart phones very handy and also being able to take pics and videos as you always have your phone with you. Their marketing strategies are irritating but just don't join the queue when they bring something new out.... a few months later and it's easy to buy. But it can get a bit much when out socially and all everyone is doing is fiddling with their phones if they make so much as a murmur
  7. I don't think you can get the ES bar in 15"... the shortest they do is 16"
  8. Have to be a bit careful on this one as most grants I've heard of you're not allowed to spend any money until the grant has been officially awarded.... i.e. you've started your training already... But again depends on grant...
  9. What you have there is absolutely fine and it'll be perfectly dry for next winter.
  10. Had a customer for some mill bits today and they have a conifer job (reduction I think...) to carry out - to be honest I didn't ask many details. Sounds like a fairly biggish job so if anyone interested PM me and I'll give you the phone number for the customer. First 4 digits of postcode are TN12
  11. You'll almost want some of those boards they stick in the tree in the log type competitions - I've always wanted to know how they work.... must be more comfortable wielding a big saw from spikes.
  12. The other thing you could do is try and quarter it then transport it... As Jon says if you have a decent butt like this that is this diameter and that tall then it should be worth some cash....
  13. Just thought I'd do a quick resume on Oregons multi cut chain. All the range of oregon multi cut are based on their existing chains the only difference there is a thicker layer of industrial chrome on the top plate. The chain doesn't look much different from 'normal chain' but it is a little more expensive (40% to 50% more give or take). At some stage every chainsaw user asks 'surely with all the modern technology around there must be chains that don't dull so easily'? Oregons multi cut seeks to address this but what's it like and why isn't everyone using it? One of the members 'Rover' on here summed it up well: "Just wanted to say thanks for the multicut chain you sent me for the 346. I don't like it very much, but my "brash monkey" (I get invoiced for brash monkeying, it's his term) does. It seems to never get as sharp as a normal chain, not even close to a normal semi-chisel, but.... It does cut at that slower speed for so much longer, I reckon I sharpen the semi-chisel on my 550xp (also on 15") twice before the multicut starts to slow down considerably. I prefer to take that time, sharpen up and go at it again, but he likes the fact that it will just keep cutting. It's no different when hitting metal or stones etc (hedgelaying, close to the ground cuts, rubble, rubbish and ingrown barb wire in abundance)." So it performs pretty much as designed - it'll cut longer in dirty conditions but it does not cut nearly so well as the steel equivalent and it is more expensive. Pic below as M22BPX - .325 .063 oregon semi chisel multicut chain.
  14. Many thanks... Will continue to do free postage on all orders I think and soon all of husky equipment should be live on the site.
  15. Very professional looking work indeed!
  16. Had a look at your website by the way - very well set out and particularly liked the inclusion of videos showing you carving
  17. Always check with the LA even if people cross themselves and hope to die... I almost came unstuck a couple of times taking others word for it and each time felt stupid that I'd left it so late to check for myself.
  18. Great work - how long do you think one of those takes you?
  19. Thanks for that although I will admit that I am not the best in the world of sharpening but hopefully it gives the general idea. I'd ditto the aboves in that sounds like to large a file being used freehand. Although sometimes with those smaller chains in can be tricky to maintain the curve of the tooth with the file plate on...
  20. Nicely done Rob and the word count I think is a bonus as makes it a good short read.... sometimes when you're faced with pages of stuff it puts you off starting!
  21. Rob D

    Topping Fail

    Ditto above which is what dadio was asking - and it's prob more relevant to working in the woods where you're felling several trees and avoids having to get a pull line set up.
  22. I've had this before on some sycamore I was milling.... got halfway down the log and the mill just stuck fast.... I'd already cut 3 or 4 planks fine.... couldn't understand it..... My theory (and to ditto agg) is worn bar where the groove has widened and the chain is sloppy. This chain slop causes the bar to pull one way which causes more wear on that side of the bar which in turn makes the bar pull up (or down) causing even more wear on that side which causes even more pressure until.... it sticks! So why does it suddenly stick fast and not gradually? I dunno.... You can get over it temporarily by taking the bar and chain off, dressing the bar and then spending some time getting the chain perfect but personally I'd say a new bar and chain is on the cards (and new drive rim while you're at it!). When you get a new bar and chain after milling with an old set up it's like those first kisses from your wife all that time ago and the magic of milling is back You'll tell me it's a brand new saw you had on there now!
  23. Rob D

    any old oil

    Exactly why bother looking to use a cheaper alternative when it's cheap anyway?
  24. Great vid and very refreshing

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