Rob D
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Everything posted by Rob D
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No prob Chris they will be £165-00 I'll be retailing them for but as an introductory arbtalk offer am going to do for £130-00..... will post a thread up when this happens. I'll also have mine for sale prob for £80-00 - works fine but small bit of plastic missing from where the head hinges.... I need a shiny one for the vids!
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Ha Ha! I wish - almost the opposite as soon as I have filmed I force myself to edit the video that night or it goes to the back of the hard drive to be forgotten for ever! Hence the spurt of vids recently - am also loving speeding up the vids so you don't miss anything but is quicker and easier to watch.
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It depends on how you want to go....my tool of choice is an impact driver and 4" self tapping bolts.... joints I'm not so good on! Will do more proper jointing when I have more time. The impact driver is quick, strong and can pull things together if you haven't quite got it right! I'll stick a vid up on it soon.
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I've had a metal detector for the past 4 years and over that time I've found it to be invaluable. It can detect down to 8" and is pretty accurate at showing where the metal in a tree is (although it won't pinpoint depth). As well as good for milling it's also handy for larger trees on fence lines as you can also ring up the wood with a smaller chance of hitting something. Had a tree to mill Sat and this had some metal in it. Have found a good way to go about this as usually I would just chop into the tree with an old chain until finding the metal then messily try and prise it out.... this way you mill up to the metal from both sides.... wedge the plank off.... test then repeat. This way you still get a plank, it's quick and you don't hit whatevers in there. I'll be selling these soon - not sure on price yet but around the £150+vat mark.... [ame] [/ame]
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Get all the good boards neatly stickered and stacked.... the odd pieces leave in a warm place and you can start playing around making things with these.... ok they'll move etc but it's a good way to practice and see what you enjoy making.
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I was going to say chain but if the same set up produces a smooth board with an Alaskan..... Maybe it's the revs of the 880 - it has the power to drive the chain through smaller logs at speed... in this case maybe going with a 3/8 chain or even a .325 chain which will give more teeth per second = smoother cut.
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Great vid to watch thanks for posting
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Depends how big your timber is..... if it'll fit within the alaskan then don't worry, if some are a lot larger then mini mill is great for dropping one or both of the sides off.
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Excellent Stevie what a great set up!
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Really sorry to hear that John - I hope the treatment is effective and she makes a full recovery. The milling idea is a great one but I'm not going to be able to do anything this year.... But certainly something to think about for the future. Would be good to see all the various types of mill in action i.e. swingmill, bandsaw and chainsaw as well as a static as well as looking at how to stick and dry timber etc.
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It's a good point this - I've only ever changed a nose sprocket to change the pitch of a bar..... usually the chain is sloppy in a bar when the nose needs replacing so it's a new bar.... I wouldn't say Oregon bars are soft - I've found the powermatch bars they do are very good quality and a good price.
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Not familiar with this saw - but if it's one of the older models then the torque they produce will drive a big bar..
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Well done for doing it - but as said in other posts you have to look after yourself first before looking after others.... And also hopefully the people you have helped will now in their own way look to help you.
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Vid showing stickering walnut boards sawn the other day. The strapping tools are available from fortis load secure Cord Straps-Woven Polyester Strapping-Polyester - fortris load secure and are ideal for strapping stacks because when the wood shrinks you can go round and re tension I just use B&Q PVA glue to end seal.
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Chairs look very good - how long would you say they take to make each?
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Liking the square blocks of oak - I did some beech ones for bedside tables but not quite as perfectly square as yours.... they weighed a fair bit and I bet these do...
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Yep - all the Stihl bars are on the website Chainsawbars ? bars, chains and chainsaw accessories
All the Husky bars I have but have yet to add them to website...
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Prob... but it all depends on where you sell em and if they're cheap people will buy..... Looking at his feedback I'm not sure if he's sold one of these yet (on ebay anyway). I get tired of moving furniture from one place to the next.. this year will be much more about knocking it out. May have some more oak coming in soon and will be doing a couple more.
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The first 30 bags i dropped and asked people to drop back you can guess how many I got..... yep 0%! Now it works out at 85% which is not bad and I expect a few of these will get changed over next year.
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That's superb what would make it even better IMO is more sanding but that's just my opinion.
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I have some greenheart - most durable timber there is for under water. What dimensions do you need?
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If you're doing the fully vented log bags then take a £5-00 deposit. I've done this for 2 years - but I do know a shop the customer can then drop the bag off 9-5 to get their deposits back....
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Stihl only go up to a 5.2mm but I do have some Pferd ones (I'm pretty sure they make the Stihl ones for Stihl) that have 5.5mm set up for .404 chain..... I'm not marketing them as they cost £2-00 less wholesale than the Stihl EZ file does retail! PM me if you want one - would be £30-00+vat. They're not bad.... but personally I wouldn't say they were 'night and day' compared to other filing techniques and equipment - just another useful option. The main disadvantage is that you have to have one for each size chain. Here's a vid:
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Is it cause your grandma didn't buy you Christmas pressies!! I've kept the original one and that was Katy Perry.... but youtube no like it!
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Hmmm... dunno... about 4 to 5 minutes maybe..... would not have liked it to have been 20 ft!
