Rob D

Yep I'd agree on that - they last a few sharpens and then... they still work just not the same as 'out the box'.

Most of it is tongue in cheek banter..... .... but there are a few as you say 'smart answers' - always going to be really just rise above 'em.

Yep I know I know but - considering it's our weapon of choice should we not know a bit more about the workings of it all... ... for instance there's been threads about - is skip link chain better and for what? Is square ground chain any use? If I knew a bit more about the theory of how it works then you can start tweaking things a bit more...

Cheers - would appreciate it if you could - not found anything on the net at all.....

Got to have something to while away these cold, lonely wet evenings

Cheers!

I've spent a long time looking at the various chains out there ie. different sorts of cutters etc etc but it seems very hard to actually find much on the actual physical process of how a chainsaw chain cuts through wood. I've heard that as the chain travels through the wood it's every other cutter pivots upwards to take it's chip out. Is this right? And if it is why is it!? The chips cut by the top plate get carried out but again not sure the exact process i.e. does the chip get carried beneath that cutter? Does that same cutter take another chip which gets carried along with the previous chip? It's easy to say 'the top plate chisels out a chip which is then carried in the gullet to be ejected near the saw' ....but I'd like to know more details on this! Is there any vids in slow mo? i,e. cutting right at the end of a log and then the footage slowed down that actually shows the process of how the chain cuts a chip out of the wood and then how that chip travels with the chain to be ejected. It would be nice to have concrete info backed up by proven facts! Ta!

Thanks for the feedback - if you could get some pics as well that would loverly! Glad all the equipment is working well.

Pleasure Mike - yep get them boards nice and neatly stickered asap (although some say that sycamore is a good one to end rear - i.e. stack upright with even spacing between somewhere off the ground and under cover - this is because it's more prone to sticker staining - ahh the joys of drying wood). I never used to pay as much attention as I should have to drying timber - but yes to to it properly takes as long as the cutting.

What chainsaw do you have? If an MS660 then I think this should be 104 d/l of .404 - and as well as the drive sprocket you'll also have to change the nose sprocket over to .404

Sorry only just seen this thread again.... 1) I don't have any skip link chain in 3/8" - I don't think anyone has in the UK. I think I'll try and get some in (won't be for 6 weeks) in 3/8 both .063 and .058. I have .404 oregon skip link ripping chain Why don't we have it available here? I suspect it's down to H&S. Kickback with a skip link chain will be more severe. If your sharpening is 'not great' then skip link is far more unforgiving - there'll be more vibration, more strain on the chainsaw, less control... 2)Why do skip link chains cut faster - tricky one and I don't know why for definite... I suspect it has something to do with better chip clearance in wider logs (2ft and up)... but if you search the net there is little to no real information on how the chain on a chainsaw cuts anyway.... so it's hard then to say why skip link is faster... 3) Stick with the 7T sprocket - you need the additional torque with skip chain. Why? Again I'm not knowledgeable enough to back up this with fact - but it's more aggressive chain so you want the additional power behind each tooth or it's more likely yo bog down. You could change up the rim for say a 30" or 28" bar though.... I do have Oregon .404 full skip square ground chain - not figured how to sharpen it properly yet though .... and also full skip oregon .404 ripping chain which is micro chisel so you could adapt the angle on this to use for cross cutting.

0.23 the best for me....

May have some yew in that length although is more 'rustic looking'. Would be good to give an idea of what the table will look like when finished i.e. a picture of an example table would be handy. Also where are you in the country?

Yep it's expensive but on average I lose or damage contacts all the time.... dailys work well for me. It makes me look at lazer surgery again but the way I see it () is I can cope with my life wearing daily lenses... I couldn't if my eyes stopped working and as said I reckon my contacts actually protect my eyes. There's such conflicting info from sites like this LASIK Complications, Risks - Top 10 Reasons Not to Have LASIK which is clearly run by people who have a business interest in stopping surgery and then on the other hand all the hard sell from the people offering surgery and how wonderful your life will be now you've had it! I reckon most who have it do well but as time goes on it'll only get better....

Worn contact lenses (Daily disposables) for the last 17 years... Takes a while to get used to them but they are pretty amazing if expensive (£40 a month). Will get my eyes lazered at some point (one at a time) but in the meantime I actually think these lenses help protect my eyes from all the crap the gets fired into them!

I think it's a great idea Andy. When you see posts of 'I live near Dorchester any work going?' you may be the best worker in the world but you've just put off about 90% of potential employers. Josh really great vid - one thing I'd add is perhaps a small piece to camera at the beginning or end introducing yourself, age, years of working in the industry, where you'd like to be working etc... Yes I know a bit cringeworthy and not something to broadcast publicly but it's sort of putting a face to the work.

Used to work in the health service (psychi) Dave and through that you come into contact with lots of other different professions. Most H&S is there so that you can't be sued i.e. I have followed what the guidelines have stipulated, I can prove it as it's all written down.... And when someone does get sued all the 'higher ups' run around to invent more red tape so if the same accident/problem occurs their backsides are covered.... that is what H&S has become.... Ironic because in turning into such a multi headed monster it may well cause the opposite - less safe working conditions!

Nice work Si - great to see real 'feeling' in a carving

Cheers for the tip Morten - I've been using a tipex type pen recently which works well ..... until it siezes up! I'll try a few of these especially the brighter colour ones.

H & S has come about mainly through litigation... Someone has an accident=someone is sued... report made.... how can we avoid this happening again.... = further risk assessment, more safety devices, a little more red tape, another hoop to jump through... How about you train someone for a job and then you trust them to do that job unless strong evidence suggests otherwise?

As above PVA works well - it's cheap, non toxic and easy to paint on .. I do think it makes a difference although as Big J says it's further down the importance list than the other things he's mentioned.

Focus on the job and give yourself continuous positive feedback.... It would be ironic to injure yourself because you're worrying about injuring yourself .... I've had a few minor accidents and each time it was because my mind was not on the job.

Ha ha - excellent

That's good for 1 tank and I know fuel is not cheap Jon - but it'll only get more expensive.... it'll just have to be passed onto the customer.

Yes it's strange that solid nose bars are still made in some ways as I can't find anyone who uses them and I've never sold one! I know they are there for use in gritty conditions but I've never had problems with sprocket nose bars no matter where they've been used. But you can change the cannon bar noses over - the oregon ones fit cannon so you can if you want put a 3/8 nose sprocket on a longer bar... I've never tried milling with 3/8 lo pro on big saws - the only people with access to this are logosol for the MS660. They get there bars made by GB in Australia. Also they have the 3/8 lo pro drive rims and picco Stihl ripping chain. I am getting some 32" powermatch bars in. They are unusual as they have a .050" guage with a standard 3/8 nose sprocket. I was thinking of changing the nose sprocket to .325 and putting on some Oregon 95VPX chain (.325 .050) which cuts a slightly narrower kerf than normal .325 chain. I'll re grind this to 10 degrees and see if it's worth all the hassal!! But they won't be here for a few weeks yet.....