Rob D
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Everything posted by Rob D
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I hear what you're saying but ditto above - the working corner on micro and semi chisel chain is more tolerant to dulling than the fine point of a full chisel. But full chisel is great particularly in clean softwood.
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Good work - they look very accurate
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Ha ha - I can't remember now - I think the JGX - the full chisel version as I think that'll be the most popular. I have an Oregon account and it's oregon chain but if you ask for it here... it's not available!
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I have some on order in full skip chisel 3/8 .063, 3/8 .058 and .404 .063 - will be available in a months time on the website but only in the 'custom chain area'.
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The BPX is more what is called micro chisel which is inbetween chisel and semi chisel. A lot of the chains these days are micro chisel rather than semi chisel the idea to get the benefits of both styles. It works very well. As for info you can find it here with close up pics as well http://www.chainsawbars.co.uk/media/documents/chain-info.pdf If you're not sure try a chain of each and see how you get on as it's very much a personal thing i.e. there is no 'best' chain out there.
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I find this one of the best tools for sanding for big stuff. DeWalt D28117 4 1/2in/115mm Variable Speed Autobalancer Small Angle It has variable speed so easier to control it rather than the raw flat out rpm of a normal grinder. A 2mm velcro backed disc and you're away!
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Yep still working on the site.... just finished the Husky database so that should be added in a couple of weeks. Have not added Husky chains as Oregon make all husky chain and other than a name change there is no difference. Oregon also make all Husky bars 24" and over (powermatch). Even if your saw is not Stihl or Husky there is a custom chain selector here Custom chain loops that when the Husky fitting .058 chains are added this will then be comprehensive. Have also got all Stihl chain in .058
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Alright TrollS - no I don't sell it. I've tried it but I don't know - I thought it seemed to cause a drop in power myself as the saw seemed to have to work harder to pull the air through... I've gone back to the original (a while ago now) and just clean it out more often and try not to cut that last plank straight off the deck... but it's not ideal I know that fine dust gets through..
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Some great info there wyk - makes a lot of sense although the proportion of people working as pro fallers on mountainsides compared to people working more on a farm/back yard must be a small one.... Despite being (over here anyway) the market leaders Stihl are I'd say a strange company in some of their decision making - for instance why stop supplying the successful 192C-E carving saw in the UK? Why supply an MS880 with a 47" Duromatic bar with no sprocket nose option?
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Lovely piece of work there - routing must have taken a fair bit of time.... lovely neat resining.
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Ha ha! Not a prison story is it Only kidding of course and welcome to the forum.
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I particularly like the tear drop cut outs at the back Si - I think they make all the difference - in fact may have a go at making one
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Mini mill +3 - just bear in mind best with a 20" to 25" bar. It's harder than the Alaskan and don't work with it downwind!
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Ditto the above. All about chain sharpness is milling - if it's steady and progressive you've got it right. If you're thinking 'it's taking a looooong' time then the chain is dull. Try not to mill everything that moves to start with - be selective. Take time to sticker and neatly stack your timber to dry. Have some fun making things green with not so good pieces - good practice and sellable. Rest the saw down the log and let it idle for 2 mins after finishing a plank. Register on Chainsawbars ? bars, chains and chainsaw accessories - e-mail me at [email protected] to say you've done this and I can do the discount.
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It's quite hard to keep it a natural colour without massive upkeep - none of the clear treatments seem to last that long - the ones with stains in do better....
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I really can't believe some of these vids and posts that have cropped up recently - it's like we're living in the matrix
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Def very original - not sure it quite works on the pillar but nice work and use of paint.
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Nice fell - really liked the secure strapping
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Ha ha! Thanks god he realised his mistake and took all the nasty 2 stroke out of it!
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Another cracking bench. I think Trollspiel is not meaning to be offensive but maybe coming in from a different perspective.... I think this design is a good formula in terms of time to build, wood it uses and what you can sell it for. You could try variations on the legs but is this going to change the price you sell it for? Or be less work? Make it more sellable? Prob not and considering these last 2 have sold quick enough why change it.
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Really - whereabouts?
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I've seen at first hand the impact of straight lager on your system Mark - are you sure the above would be wise?
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This will be the new norm - and twisting the knife - the new norm if we're lucky. Where is wealth being generated in this country now? Our deficit is still growing and our hold on the skills sector and being the financial capital of the world is slipping.... As said other countries, particularly China, will take over as world powers. We need to start producing things here again - Germany manages to have an incredibly strong manufacturing base without sweat shops.....
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Some interesting facts about 3/8" lo pro chain and milling....
Rob D replied to Rob D's topic in Milling Forum
Sorry out and about a lot at the mo but I'd say for pure speed you'd be looking at playing with setups that use a large powerhead, .404 chain and then a shorter bar.... So perhaps an MS880 with 20" or 21" bar running .404.... then try varying the chains (i.e. try a granberg vs oregon vs stihl) and/or also try lowering the depth guages a fraction more (but not too much or you'll just get huge vibration and a faster dulling chain). -
Some interesting facts about 3/8" lo pro chain and milling....
Rob D replied to Rob D's topic in Milling Forum
I know you can't get the stihl picco ripping chain here - but this is what I was trying to illustrate - your chain takes just over 1/4" (which makes sense as what I think this other guy measured around 7.2mm). But .404 chain was measured at 8.6mm... So for every cut you save 1.6mm So if on a large diameter tree you did 15 cuts = a saving of 1". I wouldn't describe this as a big saving at all.... So what I'm getting at is there is a myth that lo pro picco chain means you save a lot of kerf - this post seems to indicate that this is not true - savings are very small.
