Rob D

Ditto the above - keep calling people and keep showing your face. Meeting people is the best way as phone or e-mail employers will still perhaps not get a good first impression. Persistence always pays off in the end.

Let's see some pics! You'll get a lot more interest.

Cheers for the tip - I've had enough of them!!!!!!!

Yep I used to think the same - it's not the look of it but as you say if the paint is no good it tends to make you question how good the bar is.... But I'm not sure the paint job is that relevant... I had some GB bars that seemed to lose paint quickly as do cannons black finish. Both were great bars. P.S lost both exhaust bolts out of 390 and bolts out of Husky dogs.... never had one work loose on a Stihl!

I know - I'm sort of glad I planked most of it though... there's enough to do here at the moment!

I'll PM this as well if you don't check the thread but as Spud says an 18" oregon lo pro set up would work well as it makes the best use of a lower powered saw. Price wise would be £24-00+vat and chain would be £14-40+vat. Then you get 4% off this. I have started putting Husky on and slowly but surely it's being done... Painful thing with Husky is it is hard to pin down what 'standard' bar and chain the older saws come with....

I've started to wear one a lot more milling. Also when treating timber. Sometimes like today in the rain it's not practical though.....

It's an idea - I've been asking Steve if we could try a wood style selling sub forum on here as it's easy to list pictures and it features well in Google searches. I think if you started a site like Lanarkshire hardwoods you need one person dedicated to keeping the website fully updated so you have a really big choice and some good pics as well.

I was going to go the other way and suggest beech! I find it dries harder than elm but of course is harder to dry without warping. Do you find it scratches easier?

Time for a new bar and chain - maybe use this chain up as you don't really want to put this chain on a new bar.

2.25" thick I think from memory.....

I had quite a bit of large black poplar a couple of years ago.... had to firewood most of it as it was getting in the way but sanded and treated this one getting it as smooth as possible. Before/After pics. The rippling looks fantastic - will be using this board for product pics for updating website. Wish I'd cut a few more planks now

Some of them are oiled with a wipe of walnut oil but a lot of them I'm now sanding down to 400 grit and this seems to seal the pores of the wood.... I've had a cedar board in the kitchen and been using it to cut meat, spill things on, put it in the dishwasher and in short abused it - still looks fine other than a few knife scratches.

If you're not sure what to make and you have a small log mill start producing chopping boards.... I say chopping boards but just boards for chopping, displaying, etc. Lots of people say 'should be end grain etc etc.... ' don't worry about that as if people want to buy that they can buy all the imported stuff. Oak, beech, cedar, apple, cherry, sycamore are all food safe. Mill to 1 1/4" and get them planed to 1" or 3/4" when dry. They are easy to take to retailers and mark up for you and them is good. Offer them sale or return. Any that don't sell in one outlet re package and take to another. Even offcuts look good sanded smooth on the front. The backs now I just run quickly over and leave the saw marks in. I'm churning them out and they're selling like hot cakes - I get between £5 to £30 dependent on size but out of one small branch of cherry you can get 20 boards! I get them engraved for £1-00 each but this isn't really necessary. The main thing is to get the facing surface as smooth as silk. Sand them as a long plank first then cut them to size afterwards cutting out the knots and holes. They are easy to produce and easy to sell. Taking another 200 to Exbury Gardens tom morning - here's a few examples.

Alright John - sorely tempted but can't do at the mo...... I do love elm - so much easier to dry than most woods. To everyone else I've had around 5-6 shipments of elm from big J and it's been cracking timber!

Ditto above - very handy

I think really it comes down to using a) standard chain with 30 degree angle and also b) chisel chain rather than semi or micro and c) pushing quite hard on the mill. Ripping chain tends to give you the smoothness shown in between the washboard effect here.

I got some great pics today for you Chris! I think the washboarding could be down to perhaps too much pressure on the mill as I think you'd already worked out. I use my Husky 390 in a small log mill type set up with 28" bar and ripping chain if I just want to rip a few boards without fiddling. The pics are of some oak - but interestingly the washboard effect is not all the way down - which means it can't just be the chain and nothing else.

Don't agree here Andy! They may have done a crane job 2 weeks in but I bet there were other more experienced climbers giving them back up and advice. And did they climb before doing their tickets? If so they already had some experience. I'd ask to step back from being lead climber and your reasons why. If they keep pushing you I'd start to look around for another job.

That's superb!

That's pretty shocking really - but I'm sure the kind inmates of where ever he ends up won't take the mickey tooooo much

Spaulted holly one looks great - rare as well...

I think that's a fair rate after climbing for 12 months and in todays climate. If you start to find you're getting too busy then I'd put your day rate up.

As said - stay of the mobile! Have a great first day

This does crop up a bit - to be blunt your tree is not worth anything. Put some pics up and if you're lucky you may be able to get someone to come in and clear it for free but forget about being paid for the timber.