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About dervishcarving

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    Senior Member, Raffle Sponsor 2012, 2013

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    Research Scientist, molecular biology
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  1. Steve always knows his wood types and whats best for what protect, top man
  2. Can you brush them away with the chain? holding the bar at an angle to the wood so you are only touching with the outside edge/corner of the chain. moving upwards i find gives a cleaner finish
  3. liking yer bass relief stuff mate. U ready for the open?
  4. I use an ms181 for detail work. Have done for about 5 years now. hands down my Favorite detail saw with a 12 inch Sugi hara dime tip. The balance is great and at slow speeds (rarely using more than half power) the tip is very stable. you need a 1/4 pitch sprocket. Contact RobD on here or use his website https://www.sugiharabarsuk.co.uk/product-category/group-1-stihl-chainsaws/ he sells all kinds of carving stuff (good service too) If you dont want to spend money on a new set then the advert above from Bill is not a bad price to start off. I find the Stihl bars are made of pot-metal and burn out very quickly but fine for a try-buy remember to run the chain v slack (hanging below the bar with whole of drive-link showing) and grind the heel of the teeth off the chain or they will rub against the wood as the chain goes round the tight nose radius and overheat... burning your bar out in minuets Loads of advice over on the carving section, just read back through the old threads
  5. as an easy example... The face on my fireman (which i think is the cover photo for this chainsaw carving forum now?) was all chainsaw. I then used a blowtorch and then sand-o-flex to take off the harshness. but no hand tools or grinders or proper sanding
  6. Hi.. when i first started (some 6 years or so ago) i would switch to sanders etc pretty early on. As i got more confident and competent with a saw i did more and more with the saw. Now i am 95% saw. Push yourself to learn to get finer and finer details with teh saw and you will see improvement quickly
  7. Firefighter memorial bench i carved at Ridgeway this year. 343 firefighter died that day https://www.facebook.com/DervishCarving/
  8. you mean i shouldnt stand underneath it and just pull on the branches? dam.. i had a feelign it wasnt the best idea.....
  9. A tree that has fallen over but caught up on another tree, or one that was felled and ended caught up in another tree. Potentially dangerous situation which requires careful handling to get it down to the ground safely
  10. hate to be pedantic and get all scientific (although that is my background and training) but Boric Acid toxicity is well studied and well known. check out the CDC page if you want a pretty unbiased opinion. i copied part of it below. Its toxic, hence its not recommended. its got F all to do with patents or anything, its just not 100% safe. in humans, it is believed that adverse reactions associated with low doses of boric acid per day are unlikely to occur. However, exposure to large amounts of boric acid over a short period of time can affect the stomach, bowels, liver, kidney, and brain, and may even lead to death. Centre for Food Safety - Food Safety Focus - Boric Acid and Borax in Food nobody that i can find (and trust) would recommend boric acid for surfaces used to prepare food. If you want to consider that to be because ' it can't be patented' thats fine, but its bollix. its just not safe. end of story. you MIGHT be safe to use boric acid and then many layers of varnish.. but thats not gonna be great if its next to the sink (would need regular re-varnishing). all in all its a bit of a buggr. Try blasting the wood with a strong chloride solution ... bleach (thats not patented either...amazingly... with added stabilizing agents maybe, but not just a chloride solution) or maybe a milton's-fluid type solution? but it will probably bleach teh wood as well good luck mate
  11. days? to put it up took 8 or so hours i think. every section had been put together and checked first so it all slotted together easily. but to cut all the timber and joints took months


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