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Rob D

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Everything posted by Rob D

  1. Yes I'll put up a thread on quarter sawing soon... am using chainsaw mills to cut into quarters then the Peterson to resaw.... but there is a another way to do it using only chainsaw mills.
  2. Like to do it but wouldn't have much of a clue how to go about it.... couldn't see the pics by the way!
  3. £20 for a chain on a 4ft bar sounds about right.... sounds a lot but it is a fair amount of work.... on a 16" bar there will be around 30 teeth, on a 4ft bar 70 teeth...
  4. That's good going! I like a foot of bar poking out the other side to make sure I don't cut through the hinge!
  5. Most likely down to poor chain sharpening and or worn bar.
  6. If you're doing some milling with it I'd hang onto it.... As long as it's reliable and you're not having to tinker with it I'd keep it and get a 660 as well. After a month or 2 if you then think 'really not going to use the 070 anymore' sell it then - they are hard to find in good nick. Personally I'd keep it and leave it on the mill and have it expressly as a milling saw.
  7. Sent an e-mail to TRADA the experts on timber ref selling as firewood - they said 'odd choice for firewood but yes it's fine to use' Which is handy as the pile I have a good third of it will be firewood in the end. Not had much more time to mill any but am going to do a load for a floor for my brother in his cellar....
  8. As above about a £100 to £120
  9. Hefty looking set up
  10. Rob D

    346 xp chain

    See if you can ID the chain using info on the bar. You want the pitch (prob .325) guage (prob 1.3mm/.050 or 1.5mm/.058) and the number of drive links to get a new chain. Examples here Chain | bar | sprocket identification 2
  11. About right I reckon - I think the Peterson takes around the same time to get set up.... can be fiddly getting it out the trailer as I tend to leave the blade on to save time - this leaves only a cm or so clearance but has worked fine so far....
  12. Looks good - how long would you say it takes to set up the Lucas in a place like that?
  13. One of the best vids I've seen thanks for posting.... Amazing how they did it then.... looked like it was a case of clear felling then moving onto the next area which is a shame..... but still incredible to see.
  14. Precision work like that scares me some! Good job
  15. The only saw I find runs roughly on it is an MS211.... everything else seems fine. I think the higher cost is down to production - as a greener fuel it should be subsidised to get the cost down.
  16. Great pics especially the ones of the second piece of yew - lovely colours and pips in that
  17. What saw do you have Chris? I have the 60" Stihl bars for 880/090 mount etc? You'd get a 54" cut with that.
  18. You get what you pay for. If it doesn't last then even at a cheap price to throw it away and buy another - do this 3 times and suddenly they're not looking so cheap. I've had a couple of cheap saws for rough work but only lasted 6 months.....
  19. Ho ho very good!
  20. Nice to hear some feedback on multi cut... Personally I still can't decide whether it does keep an edge better or not. It's def slower cutting IMO but I have not tried a direct comparison but have a load of greenheart piles that I may try a multi cut vs semi on.
  21. Superb! Thanks for the update and additional pics How did you make the shingles - with a froe?
  22. Yep she's def a handy little workhorse I still think you want a tow hitch/eye or similar on the front for pulling a small barrow trailer - that would save time on long trips.
  23. Narrow kerf chains work very well IMO on the small/midsize saws. The only system really for general cutting is Oregon 95VPX but will only go up to 18" (sort of...!). This works very well and takes only 4.2mm kerf compared to normal .325 chain which takes 6.2mm. No loss of strength as is still mounted on a normal .325 chassis. The only problem is trying to match Oregons ridiculously named bars to the chain (and bear in mind they've just swapped it all around....) The semi chisel (or micro chisel) chains are good fast chains and are def more tolerant to dulling + easier to sharpen than full chisel. Carbide chains - forget em! I spent £600 experimenting with them. They cut like a dull chain even when sharpened (carbide does not take an edge like conventional steel chain). And you hit something like metal or a stone you'll break cutters and effectively write the chain off. Although to be fair have not tried the new Stihl carbide tipped chains.... - the principles must still apply to these though. Multi-cut chain. Oregon's chain with 3 times the chrome layer. Supposed to stay sharp for longer.... but no one can decide if it works! And that tells you it prob doesn't work that well!
  24. It seems to be the same for everything - use big juicy bits of bait to lure people in then gradually start to shaft them the longer time goes on.... .... there is no such thing as customer loyalty with these large corporations.
  25. Thanks for posting - isn't it always when you least expect it?!

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