Rob D
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Everything posted by Rob D
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New to the world of chainsaw carving but..
Rob D replied to EddieJ's topic in Chainsaw Carving Forum
Love the log arch very good -
Ho ho! If you do get stuck and have forgotten your wallet give a friend/family member a call and ask the petrol station to do a transaction with 'cardholder not present'. They're not supposed to..... but it can be a way out.
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Excellent - thanks for the tip and good link.
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Doh should have read through the later posts...
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Ditto above. Reduce all the easy to reach bits of the crown first in small stages then re assess. If you haven't a pole saw then a saw with a longer bar can be handy....
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Alright Josh - I think the GB bars prob have the least sag. There does seem to be much more floppiness after 50" i.e. 50" wilts a bit but the 60"+ wilt a lot! At some point I'll do a stiffness test (which I'll look forward to ) and line the bars up supported at one end.
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Just seen this! Nasty Stevie hope it heals quickly and you're back working again. Thankfully no bone and tendon damage it shouldn't take too long.
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Stihl do a 47" solid nose bar and yet as everyone says the nose gets hot and saps power.... yet they have a 59" Rollamatic bar with a sprocket nose (it is available but harder to get). This is more or less the same price as the 47"... So why not make a 48" sprocket nose bar? Oregon do make longer bars but currently the longest available in the UK is 36".... The reason they don't import longer bars into the UK? - because apparently there is no market for them :confused1: Cannon make a full range up to 60" and are good if pricey. They seem a little thinner than GB. GB make bars up to 87" based on their harvester bars. They are heavier than the cannon equivalent. Trouble is you need to buy in around 30 a time in each bar length and the exchange rate at the mo makes them expensive....
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I think there's prob more chance of it happening if you're climbing o9n your own rather than with others about.... I don't climb much at all now but a lot of it comes down to thinking positive. You need to counter any negative thoughts quickly as although they do help to keep you safe too much of them can have the opposite effect.
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Cheers for the offer but have ordered 5 litres of Toms stuff.... also going to get some syringes for injecting it into the wood.
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An easy way to do it is every load you drop off to a customer say that you do the same amount for a third off in the summer... I did about 20 green loads this summer....
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Good luck with it Dave - amazing how the body gets so habituated to things like this.... Would it be worth rather than going cold turkey to ease down gradually? Would probably be better for you if you can do it like that. Give yourself a schedule. I expect you'd have less withdrawal symptoms.
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Nice - will the lighter fluid permeate the wood and give any long lasting effect? I could almost enjoy applying that! Cromar - cheers Tom have ordered some!
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Something from a tree stake maybe? Having the back cut a little above the hinge is fine and what I aim for on most fells from the ground... why would you want it to jump from a cut made from the ground anyways?
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Thanks for that
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The bar I made here http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/alaskan-mill/36856-bar-top.html has suddenly (over the course of a week) sprouted approx 200 exit holes. It was a well seasoned piece of oak 2.5 years old. I went in this morning and caught a couple of beetles and thankfully they seem to be Lyctus Brunneus. I say thankfully as from reading they only live in the sapwood of hardwoods. As the starch runs out in the sapwood they then can't feed anymore. They don't invade softwood or old hardwood. But as pointed out to me it's a little unsightly to have them walking about on the bar and I think some of the larvae have also made an appearance. Can anyone give any advice on how to treat and types of treatment. I was thinking of going round and injecting the exit holes then retreating the top. But what do I use?
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Well done mate all the fun starts now!
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I found it really good when I was climbing and wouldn't change back.
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It's a very good thread in that I've been thinking this.... No matter what you tell the public they compare prices of a .65 bag to a full 1 cube.... It's only when they see it they then realise... I'm committed to the cubic meter bags now as have 400 but part of me thinks it may have been a good idea to have .65 bags as well.... too late for me though
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Looks very handy good work What weight will she take?
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Never tried it maybe one day... Vids looked good though... it must be hairy looking down from the top o them mountains!
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May be worth getting one of the techie people on here to do a carb overhaul for you Chris.
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Some more info on the Stihl EZ file system. Really the system will only accept Stihl files. But bear in mind it comes in 4mm, 4.8mm and 5.2mm only. I do have some pferd EZ files in 5.5mm for .404 chain but normal files do not fit in this one (perhaps why Stihl do not do a 5.5mm one as I'm pretty sure pferd make these for Stihl). It also says below only for .325 and 3/8 chain but there is another 4.0mm EZ file for 3/8 lo pro or picco chain. Product sheet on EZ file :
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Yes seems to be loads selling this year and the mild winter to date has made it very quiet for me so far down here....
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The standard set up for that is prob .325 pitch chain. What you are running is 3/8 chain and due to the slightly larger pitch there are less drive links. I have it all here with comparisons if you're unclear Chain | bar | sprocket identification
