lurkalot
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Everything posted by lurkalot
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One of these valved engine Stihl strimmers
lurkalot replied to Baldbloke's topic in Maintenance help
Yep, make sure tappets are set correctly, very important on the 4Mix engines. You'll need a special feeler gauge with a narrow end on it to set these properly. You can obtain these from your Stihl dealer. As for compression, it shouldn't have much at all if the tappets are set correctly, and the decompressor is working properly. Though they do have a habit of destroying the decompressors. They part company from the plastic camshaft. Not one of my favourite engines if I'm honest. -
One of the welch plugs missing perhaps?
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I had to work on one of Stihl's new Pruner heads this week, I think that must be made by Fisher Price.
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I agree, it's an insult to Lego.
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Worth checking that breather as a first step, had one the other day which had a crack in the top of it. Kept piddling out fuel, and I never spotted it when I was servicing the saw.
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I wasn't aware of the swing at JD, was kind of basing it on what I've seen in for service over the years, I don't touch many John Deere's to be honest. I remember the rider they sold which was the same as the Honda.
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Ditto. Only seems to do it in Chrome, seems fine with Firefox, IE11 and Edge.
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No good for me either, too far away. My location info is in my profile already, although Essex is a big place thinking about it.
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Would have thought this was a safety issue to be honest. Probably would get away with in any other country but here.
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As are some John Deere and Honda, on there low end stuff.
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Bit of a job to check without hearing it. Personally I'd take it to your local dealer, or someone who knows, and let them have a quick listen to it. I doubt they would charge you anything for that.
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Must admit I was referring to the click and collect part in my last reply, and not the direct sales. (I missed the point completely). Direct sales isn't a good idea, but the prices direct from manufacturer are usually much higher than the local dealer from what I've seen in the past. Wonder what will happen when someone make a purchase, then walks into the dealer to find they could of saved another hundred quid buying from there instead. Perhaps some sort of ploy to stop heavy discounting from the box shifters. Isn't it strange how things have turned around nowadays. Years ago the manufacturer would send out reps to beg dealers to take them on and sell their products. Now they want you to beg, and charge you huge amounts of money for display equipment etc for the privilege.
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I dare say, depending on the customers post code, the dealer in that area will get paid the commission from the manufacturer. As if they'd gone into the shop. They have to get something out of it, I mean if a click and collect from local dealer would involve unbox, fuel oil and run up to make sure all is well.
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Commercial Pole hedgetrimmer - Recommendations please
lurkalot replied to arboriculturist's topic in General chat
I haven't used the heavy duty one either, I was told a few months ago that they were bringing out a new heavy duty gearbox. If I understand the HD has the sharpened blade tips like the old HCA-2400 had. -
Commercial Pole hedgetrimmer - Recommendations please
lurkalot replied to arboriculturist's topic in General chat
Is that the new HD "Heavy Duty" gearbox? Thing I like about the Echo is having the sharp blade tips, it'll saw through stuff that won't fit between the blades. They always seem to cut better than the Stihl's imo. -
MS 181. Any of these symptoms sound familiar. 1: Knock the handle and the throttle and choke linkage all jumps out. 2: E-clip disappears off the end of the choke shaft on carb, causing all sort of problems. 3: Oil hoses leak where they fit in the tank, making a mess. New hose will cure that for a while. 4: Bar clamp stud comes out with the bar and cover attached to it, if someone does it up slightly too tight. 5: Bar clamp stud sometimes strips out of the plastic housing that it's screwed into. There's a oversized stud available for this. 6: Had a few main bearing s where the cages have disintegrated and gone up the bore. (Not just limited to the 181).
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Did some ejit try to fill a hole with solder?
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Sad news indeed. R.I.P Malcolm Young.
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Check the pulse pipe hasn't come disconnected from under the handle, make sure it is pushed on properly.
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Complacency. Unfortunately many big names suffer from this, when they should really start listening to the end user.
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It doesn't work though, as you've discovered. Same effect as using a nut gun. Which is why you should use the locking strip and just undo the clutch, no hitting involved.
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When I first changed a 181 top av spring I felt the same, but it only takes me a couple of minutes now, dead easy once you know how. I'm talking about the early ones with the cable tether down the middle of course. The later ones don't have the tether and are easy anyway.
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How? If you were changing the clutch properly it won't affect the flywheel whatsoever. On the other hand, if you jam something in the flywheel to lock the engine, or use a nut gun to remove and re-tighten the clutch then it's not really something you can blame the saw for. Did you use the locking strip?
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Yep, for the Toro Timemaster there's a high lift blade set available from your local Hayter/Toro dealer. If they haven't got any then get them to order them for you.
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Amongst other things, This. A top handle assy, which has been smashed as usual on a 201T I cheated this time and rather than rebuild it, I fitted a whole assembly. A Top anti vibe spring on a MS 181 And a service and sharpen on a HS45
