lurkalot
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Everything posted by lurkalot
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Apologies in advance, I'm a bit of a Lizzy fan. ;) Gary Moore - Whiskey in the Jar (Tribute to Phil Lynott)
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Gary Moore & Friends - Don't Believe A Word [Thin Lizzy]
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Prince, Tom Petty, Steve Winwood, Jeff Lynne and others -- "While My Guitar Gently Weeps"
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Todays Posts > My Activity Streams > Content I posted in.
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Richard, I completely forgot about the M-Tronic stuff, I blame my age. Does make sense though, and worth checking out.
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Depends how far you stripped it to change the housing. If you haven't touched anything other than the top cover and the front housing then, perhaps you have nipped a pipe somewhere on reassembly. Also make sure the fuel pipe in the tank hasn't folded over on itself and kinked.
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I guess only you can decide that. The 56 is aimed at the domestic user, the 94 is aimed at domestic to pro users.. We have loads of "Pro" users with 56's and we fit quite a few flexi shafts and drive ends, and throttle cables.. Both machines use those crappy bows in the coupling to twist the shafts into line, they both break, sometimes resulting in a new shaft or drive end.
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Apart from the obvious, here's some more differences, KM56 Slightly shorter, slightly heavier, fixed position harness mount, and drive cable instead of steel shaft, no anti vibe. KM94 Slightly lighter, slightly longer, adjustable harness mount, solid steel driveshaft instead of cable, anti vibe.
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Would have thought it was a manual transaxle rather than hydrostatic, but either way the linkage is probably worn pretty badly by now, and probably in need of some lube. If it's gone stiff in the box itself then that's another story. Always a tad awkward without seeing it first hand.
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Yep it is regarded as a bodge job, but unless you want to take the engine on a trip to a engine preconditioner and have a new seat made and fitted then this is a workaround that does work quite well in the past. Just don't over do the peening. Try to shift some of the aluminium over the edge of the seat if possible, I find a small(ish) pin punch better for this job tbh.
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No don't use any sealant or anything, just run around the aluminium block just outside the valve seat with a center punch or a small pin punch, and gently peen it back in. This should secure it sufficiently. It's a pretty common problem with the sidevalve Briggs. When done look for a build up of grass and debris under the Cowling. If this clogs up then it'll over heat often causing the seats to come out. done Hopefully it'll keep running for you.
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Unfortunately it's a head and carb off job to do the valves on this side valve engine. The valve springs and retainers are behind the breather assy which is behind the carb. That said, if the compression is there you probably don't need to go down that route, although it probably wouldn't hurt to check that it has tappet clearance on such an old engine.
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Turn it backwards by hand and see if there's any compression, otherwise you won't feel the compression properly because of the decompressor. They also have a habit of one the valve seats coming out, so something else you could check.
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Dunno haven't seen any lately. Have they been replaced by the new RR200 or RR400 or were these around at the same time? https://www.worldofwolf.co.uk/categories/multi-change-tools/tree-care/product/wolf-garten-bypass-tree-lopper-2m/RR200~RR200 https://www.worldofwolf.co.uk/categories/multi-change-tools/product/wolf-garten-bypass-tree-lopper-4m/RR400T~RR400T
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Don't think you have anything to worry about, these things do get hot in use. The fact that you haven't run it hard could be a contributing factor though, as these need revs to make the clutch bite properly.
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Ok, working now Steve.
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Oops, you have a typo in the address you have http// instead of http://
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Hmm, Steve, unless my browser is hanging on to the old link (I did clear the cache), it still has a double http in it, and gives me this error when clicked on,
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You have a dead link in your signature, It has a double http in it. Just thought I'd point that out in case you weren't aware. Site looks nice though.
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If symptoms are like choke being suck on, puffing black smoke etc. Stick a new diaphragm and gasket in it and it'll be fine. At least until it sucks it in again. They have a habit of doing this. Part number 795083
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Some very nice guitars in here. Can't show mine, haven't got any pics as yet. But I currently have, Epiphone Prophecy Custom Plus GX Epiphone Plustop Pro Harley Benton L450 Plus Cheapie Yamaha Acoustic, can't remember the model. And a cheaper Strat copy which I was going to use as a testbed. And my website, Guitarist Guild
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Check the fuel filter in the tank, they do block up on these machines, also check the pipes haven't gone like putty, or perished. If the pipes have gone soft they will collapse with any restriction from the filter, normally resulting in cutting out. These pipes also rot and fall off in the tank quite nicely. The fuel / oil residue might actually be grease from the gearbox which has worked its way up the tube, also quite common especially if someone's a bit keen with the grease gun. Although it had £140 spent on the service, did they change the diaphragms? I know they should have at that price, but you never know.
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Looks to me like it been getting chain jammed, or not cutting at full power. Clutch slipping causing the actual clutch to heat up and toast the cover. There's no swelling around the brake band at all so it's nothing to do with the brake.
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Me neither, I can only offer what I have observed over the last 41 years of repairing garden machinery. The amount of machines, mainly Countax that have flat tyres after being stored for the winter, customer then requests that we repair punctures. Then we find they're full of that stuff already. Tyres are flat or soft but can't be pumped up, because the valve is blocked, Sometimes the valves won't come out, you then have to rip the valve out and get a face full of gunk. So I guess my response is from a fitters perspective rather than a end users.
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It does kind of work, but really only good if you keep moving. If you park with the punctures at the top of the wheel it will lose pressure when the fibres in the holes dry out. Plus it rusts the wheel rims to hell, and can knacker your tyre valve, as you'll find out when you want to pump them up. As you can probably tell I hate this stuff with a passion, lol.. Thorn Guards are the best method if you can find some, not cheap though.
