lurkalot
-
Posts
298 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Classifieds
Tip Site Directory
Blogs
Articles
News
Arborist Reviews
Arbtalk Knot Guide
Gallery
Store
Calendar
Freelancers directory
Everything posted by lurkalot
-
https://www.diyspareparts.com/parts/stihl/diagrams/ms180-c-b-d/1cf94bdf-13df-4df4-8b57/
-
Apparently they can. If I've got the right website, Read the bottom line. https://www.ukfisa.com/membership/what-will-fisa-membership-provide.html "The opportunity to display the Safety Accord logo and branding on your vehicles, website and company paperwork."
-
Reason said it might be bent, is I've seen a few of these with broken terminals, all of them had a slight bend in the motor shaft, causing the motor to wobble slightly. Trouble with this design, the output end of the shaft has a bearing either side of the gear which supports that bit nicely. But the motor itself just sits in housing and it has one main lug on one side to stop it turning. When you have a major blade jam it tends to kick the motor over to one side. It only has a really tiny shaft on the actual motor. It's a piss poor design IMO. You will get the same battery error, with flashing lights if the blades get stuck, and the motor controller tells it to shut down instantly. This brushless stuff is damn good, in a model car or plane though.
-
Pretty common problem with those unfortunately. Normally associated with a slightly bent motor shaft, which happens when the operator has had something jam up the blades. Did you notice the motor wobbling at all when you turned it in situ?
-
It basically gives the same drive system as the "Pro" version. Give you a fixed double pulley instead of a variator, and that goes on to a new two piece arm and a spring which swings the double pully out to keep both belts tensioned. Regarding the fitting of the belts, seriously it's not that bad, I do hundreds of them, and the 56 is the easiest of them all. Usually takes about ten minutes on a bad day. Remove the air filter, and tip machine on its right hand side (standing behind it), and you should be able to get to it ok. Anyway, hope you manage to sort it.
-
https://www.lsengineers.co.uk/chain-brake-assembly-for-stihl-ms026-petrol-chainsaws.html
-
Or just accidently nock the rear handle against something, it'll all fly apart. Judging from the amount of 181's 171's that I've had to put back together for people. Seriously though. I wish they'd go back to using a screw instead of clicking stuff together like a Kinder toy. Also, who the hell designs their throttle linkages.
-
Getting the fooking batteries to take a charge when they're cold would be a place to start.
-
Just thought after I posted, you have removed the five screws and removed the cover part of the underdeck haven't you? Left hand side as you stand behind the machine. (Obviously underneath).
-
Obviously you'll need to remove the engine to variator belt again. Then, make sure the control is set to fast, then roll the belt off the variator as you turn it by hand. Then slip it off the gearbox pulley, You might have to twist the belt sideways to allow the belt to slip past the spring anchor. Belt is thinner inner to outer than it is wide, hence the twist to get it through the gap. Spring anchor = A bent piece of metal just above the gearbox pulley, to which the other end or the variator arm spring is attached. Hope this helps.
-
I'd say yes in certain circumstances. Over all, no.
-
Stihl strimmer flexi shaft jerkyness help
lurkalot replied to deanopolini's topic in Maintenance help
Just something you could try. Take the flexi shaft out grease it and fit it in the other way around. See if that helps the bounce you're experiencing. -
Indeed there should. I'll be honest and say I thought Choposaurus had removed the plate to show us the tensioner etc. But yes if that's missing it's definitely not going to help the situation.
-
The aluminium collar number 6 will need to be removed to fit the plastic sleeve. It's just a press fit on to a raised spline on the shaft. Take care removing and refitting the collar, if you ruff it up it'll ware through the sleeve again. If the either or both of the two wire bows are broken then you'd be better off replacing the shaft anyway. On the other hand, if the bows have fallen out fit some new ones, which are available as a spare part. And as the actress said to the bishop, Slap some grease on your shaft before inserting.
-
Obviously the bar is moving when using the saw, otherwise the adjuster wouldn't break. The tensioner only holds the chain to the required tension until you do the bar nuts up, after that it should be doing nothing while your using the saw. Are the studs seated properly, or does the shoulder on one or both the studs protrude too far, thus not letting the side plate clamp the bar? Bottom line is the bar isn't being clamped in place properly. That's my theory.
-
Looking at that photo, it looks almost like the chain has never run on the left hand rail of that sprocket. Does it run inline properly, is the chain wide enough to span both sides of the sprocket? I know nothing about processors, this is just an observation.
-
Anyone know where the oil drain plug would be on this Brigs engine?
lurkalot replied to Woodworks's topic in Maintenance help
If it's got a drain plug I use it, because the sump is usually shaped to make the bung its lowest point. If it hasn't got a drain bung like a lot of modern small engines I'll suck it out with a vacuum pump. Normally I find if you suck it out of a vertical shaft engine with a drain bung, you'll find you can't get as much oil back in as you can if drained properly. That tells you something, or it should. -
Would have thought there would be a few dead 4mix engines about, perhaps there would be a good second hand tank assy lying around somewhere. We unfortunately had a clear out of a lot of our scrap so pretty sure I haven't got one atm.
-
No, I never mentioned 10:1 that would be rather foolish. I said the difference between 50:1 and 32:1 with the same carb setting. A general comment on a forum suggesting that adding extra oil to you mix for protection could result in problems, which is why the manufacturer has recommended ratios. But then we all know better than the people who make actually the stuff.
-
Some pics from inside one of those pruner heads here, https://thegardenmachineryforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=58.0 I wasn't overly impressed.
-
I'd be interested in your findings too. I can't see why a engine with too much oil wouldn't rev, it should have the opposite effect, it should run lean and over rev. Example, a two stroke tuned to run on 50-1 and filled with 32-1 will run leaner. Tuned to 32-1, and filled with 50-1 should run richer. A few years of racing motocross bikes taught me that.
-
And a lot of people use more oil than they should and seize them up due to running leaner and hotter. Use the recommended mix is my advice, combined with the right oil.
-
Obviously it will get flooded if you keep pulling it over without it starting. Just saying the flooding issue needs checking out that's all.
-
So make sure you fix the flooding issue, or it'll do it again.
-
You'd need to let the crank case dry out as well, as it might be full of excess fuel. Pull it over a few times without plug in, and make sure it's switched off while you do it. (Fire risk). Possible that if it was really flooded it could have kicked and sheared the flywheel key, pretty common on the smaller saws, though they normally spin the flywheel loose at the same time. If it's flooding while standing still, then that needs sorting before anything else.
