lurkalot
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Everything posted by lurkalot
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And in my reply above.
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They probably figured the customer would fit it that way around anyway. Chain will stay sharp at least.
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pdi check or just random sampling. was it worth it
lurkalot replied to wakefield tree surgeons's topic in General chat
I was more referring to the "doing more harm letting them tick over" part to be honest. I mean it won't do any harm to warm them up at slow speed, and you should let them idle for a bit before turning them off as well. Actually, I wonder how many Stihl owners actually read the manual that come with it, and if they do read it, actually take any notice of what it says. -
Steve. Firstly thank you for allowing this discussion to take place. The software will be the next generation of SMF, so yes I could be classed as a update, although it's still at RC2 stage atm. And will still have the same TinyPortal addon which is our own open source project.
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Barrie, thanks for the shout out regarding TGMF, it's much appreciated. I actually put the forum up quite a while ago, but never really promoted or pushed it. At the moment it's pretty quiet and I've not added many features or addons. If it ever gets going I'll put some time into improving it, I know there's new software on the horizon, and that should be a vast improvement straight away.. Drop by and say hello, Ideas and suggestions always welcome .
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pdi check or just random sampling. was it worth it
lurkalot replied to wakefield tree surgeons's topic in General chat
Where did this theory come from. What about the break-in period? -
That's the trouble with this Chinese stuff. If I had a £ for every Stihl coil I've changed, eh. Barrie, good to see you posting again, thought we'd scared you away.
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There is actually a known issue with the wiring harness on these machines, but usually they won't turn off. I'm not saying it's not possible for the harness to cause this, just I've never seen it in all the ones that had broken harnesses, and I've had to change quite a lot of them for the very same issue.
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Reason we leaped on the Carburettor thing was your original description, it "sounding like it was being choked" There's a big difference between a ignition problem and a fuel problem, and you can usually hear it to be honest. From your description I would have said carburettor, or blocked exhaust. If it was stuttering, or misfiring and stopping I'd have said plug, or coil.
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Welch plug fallen out perhaps. You really shouldn't have to bend the metering arm on something which was running ok previously, that hasn't suddenly changed. Is the machine sometimes difficult to pull over when it's been standing a while, and does it chuck fuel out of the exhaust when you first try to start it?
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What's the (what looks like red and black tape) for on the blade end of the housing? Looks pretty dirty in the motor compartment, are the covers damaged? It concerns me that there's no error code showing on the battery, normally they don't need much of an excuse to start flashing at you.
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Yes I guess it would if you go a bit mad with the spray, it only needs a sniff. Does work though, on some things, like crank seals, base gasket leaks etc, and on the manifold if used sparingly. Alternately use something like duck oil, or oil from a squirty oil can.
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That was my thinking too Spud. Another handy tip (for those that didn't know) is to have a can of maintenance spray at hand, and spray down on those parts while running on idle, you'll hear it change or even stop running. It's a quick and dirty way to find air leaks.
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Make sure the rubber manifold hasn't perished or split, between the cylinder and carb. That can cause issues like this when moving the saw about, because the cylinder and carb move independently to each other via the anti vibe mounts.
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I often feel like returning the favour to be honest.
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That reminds me. I do love customers (so called pro's) who send their saws in for repair, and they've been using it with about six inches of starter cord. Pays to pull the thing over slowly the first time. Wouldn't be so bad if they'd actually brought it in for a starter repair, at least you'd be aware there is something wrong with it.
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Only a week old or so. Wouldn't sod about with it, unless you want to void the warranty. Take it back to the Stihl dealer and get it checked out properly.
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Trouble is, like most Stihl screws, they're self threading, which means unless they've been in and out a few times they're likely to be pretty stuck in there. What caused them to shear off in the first place, that worries me a bit.
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Age: To give you a rough idea, unless it's had a replacement engine. You should see a set of numbers Model, Type, Code, stamped into the engine cowling, either down the front face, or across the top. The first two digits of the code (the last long number) is the date of the engine. As for your clutch cable problem, I'm not seeing any pictures of the part you mentioned for some reason.
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Yep, I guess it depends whether you want a dedicated long reach hedge trimmer, such as one of the Stihl HL range, or a Combi system such as a Stihl KM The KM56 combi is a domestic machine, so expect some problems if used professionally. Drive cables instead of solid shafts in the engine unit, fixed harness point, etc. (This doesn't apply to the bigger KM versions). But bang for buck I'd probably go with one of the ECHO machines, either Combi or dedicated.
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Take the camshaft out, they are prone to falling apart. The metal parts of the decompressor break up and come way from the plastic cam. Worth checking as I've seen it many times.
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Think you have a bit of GAS going on. Congrats on the new guitar though.
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Yes and good luck getting it out of drive on a slope, those things have a mind of their own. They'll sort the small trees too. lol..
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Assuming you're thinking about the self propelled versions. EGO has a motor for blades, and a motor for drive, so you can drive it along without the blades running, and variable speed. = Simples. STIHL (Formally Viking) Has a motor for blades, a drive belt, a gearbox and clutch cable same as the smaller petrol models, so blade has to be running to make it drive. + Fixed speed + Really uncomfortable control levers. EGO is a no brainer in comparison, not cheap but you get a great cordless mower, plus imo they look really cool, unlike the STIHL.
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USA based "Chainsaw" type brush cutter disc - anyone seen one in the UK
lurkalot replied to cjdg's topic in General chat
The ones I saw about 30 years ago were just saw chain joined together same as you would for a chainsaw.. The disc had a bar groove around its edge, and a few drive tangs in side to stop the chain slipping. Cut the correct length of chain, and wrap it around and join it. Plus they used to go out of balance when warn. I was always uncomfortable with the idea to be honest.
