Jase hutch

Ok, I’ve looked into it and I will p.m you.............. Or, you could source some suitable rubber and make your own up..? Jase..

GreenMech offer a sharpening service.. I don't know the cost though.. Jase.

I'll look into it and let you know.... Jase..

If the bolts are tightened correctly to the new torque of 28Nm , they should come out ok, we don't lubricate the threads but what we tend to do before removing the bolts is to give them a good smack with a broad punch and then using a ratchet fitted with the T40 torx bit we use a piece of steel about 600mm long ( something about 30mm × 10mm should suffice ) with a 10mm clearance hole drilled through one end and using a long 10mm bolt dropped through this hole and then through one of the bolt holes in the 'cassette' used for monting it back into the chassis. We can then apply pressure onto the ratchet and bit by pressing the length of steel across the top of the ratchet , if you can keep the bit engaged firmly in the bolt head then it will always come out.... I hop you can follow this ......... Jase..

I found that just drilling the heads off with a decent drill bit and some cutting fluid was actually quicker than trying to weld nuts to the knackered bolt heads.. Just drill the heads off with a drill bit larger than 9mm and lift off the blade and wind the remaining thread out by hand. Don't forget that when tightening the new bolts , the torque is just 28Nm..

Those blades definitely need sharpening or turning if the other side hasn’t been used........ For those that don’t know, the torque setting for the bolts has now been reduced to 28Nm.

Just wondering if you managed to sort it ? jase.

Why not give Alan or Shaun at Beaverplant a ring..?

This looks like it... just slip it back onto the male spade.. jase.

Has it been used....?

Hi, it will be the throttle solenoid adjustment.....it should rev to 1560 rpm max. without the engine running, locate the throttle solenoid and push the solenoid piston into its body by hand, when the throttle linkage hits its stop screw on the side of the injection pump, there should be a small gap between a nylon nut and the forward most part of the linkage (radiator end). There is a small spring located here (not visible as it's inside a sleeve). If this gap is more than a couple of mm then the solenoid can't hold in and hence it will rev but drop back to tick over.. You will need an 8mm and 10mm spanner to simply lengthen the threaded rod attached to the throttle solenoid.. jase.. ps, tickover should be set to 670rpm..

It is indeed the same engine as in the Mk1 19-28 Trackchip and still used in the 19-28 roadtow, it changed designation during its life to the 4LE2 and then a few years later reverted back to being known as the 4LE1 again. Only real issues have been 'head gasket' failures which once replaced will seldom give any more trouble due to an improved gasket design..

Hi, from what I've seen in the pictures the fan was certainly the wrong way round....

Any news...?

Does the engine still stop if you press the red palm switch on top of the infeed chute ? If not then this is the wire that connects to an earth on the back of the engine..

GreenMech have done 'one off' specials to suit certain truck requirements.

Ok, generally there is enough tension exerted on the belts without having to alter the position of the nuts, if they have been adjusted then firstly you'll need to back them off to release any additional tension. Then remove the 'R-clip' from the bottom mount for the tensioner (this will be used later to keep the tensioner in its compressed state ). Now place a small block of wood on top of the aluminium pulley and using a lever carefully positioned under the exhaust manifold, lever down on the block of wood to compress the spring. With the spring fully compressed , if you look carefully there is a small hole in the outer tube of the tensioner assembly, this should align with a hole on the inner rod, allowing the 'R -clip' to be inserted and the assembly will then be locked in its compressed position. If difficulty is encountered compressing the tensioner then it may be that the tensioner has seized due to lack of grease, in this case a liberal spraying of WD40 will hopefully free it off. With the tensioner locked it's now safe to remove it or change the belts. I hope this helps......

After studying the pictures again I'm sort of fairly sure, almost, but it's hard to tell, is the fan on the right way round...? If you look at the first picture, if the fan was turned the other way around then it would be more aggressive . A clearer picture would show it for sure.. Ok, after looking at a new fan today I can confirm that the 'fan' is definitely fitted the wrong way round.....

After studying the pictures again I'm sort of fairly sure, almost, but it's hard to tell, is the fan on the right way round...? If you look at the first picture, if the fan was turned the other way around then it would be more aggressive . A clearer picture would show it for sure..

Good advice from Pete, I would pay particular attention to the sealing of the cold compartment because if there is foam or edging strip missing then instead of the radiator drawing in cold air it can instead recirculate hot air from the engine compartment. Are you losing coolant ? If you run the engine with the rad cap off are you getting air bubbles in the top of the radiator ? Also there is a damper built into the crankshaft pulley and these have been known to fail on your engine.. To test this try turning the engine over on the cooling fan , you'll probably need to push the fan belt in along its run between the pulleys to keep it tight , what you're trying to see if is you can turn the pulley at the back of the engine that drives the chipper flywheel ? If the bonding on the crankshaft pulley fails the pulley can virtually " freewheel" so you don't get the positive drive to the cooling fan but this can be hard to detect. It's easy to diagnose on a chipper with a digital read out of revs as the revs would be seen to fluctuate but on your chipper it would only show up as poor cooling and maybe "No stress" issues.

The GreenMech chippers are all designed and manufactured in Alcester, Warwickshire, UK..

I can assure you that the CS100 is only sold by GreenMech.........

I would recommend using an Ash can or similar though to avoid the risk of filling your 'Dyson' with hydraulic oil.........