Jase hutch

Are you getting power to the fuel solenoid ? You could check this by removing the ignition feed to the starter then go to the crank position for the engine and you should hear the fuel solenoid 'click' in ? You could try removing the fuel solenoid , put a rag in the hole to stop any dirt ingress/ oil coming out , do the same as above and when you go to crank you should see the pin on the solenoid pull in ? If this works it could be that the internal fuel rack has stuck ? If you put your finger in the hole where the fuel solenoid was fitted , you should be able to feel the end of the fuel rack , if you push it gently by hand it should return under spring pressure..? I have also heard of injectors sticking when stood for a prolonged period of time ? Jase.

Try [Name] Matt Pearson [Mobile] 07517 473661 He's ace on Kohler..

Shaun , Did it work ? Jase.

Done..?

On it now..

Hi Shaun , No I've never heard of this before. I'm furloughed at the moment but if you email : [email protected] You should get a reply from Spencer as he is picking up emails and he handles warranty. Jase.

Stuart , this was simply a reference to the same failure that you experienced with your high pressure fuel pump , a Briggs engine fault..

News to me. I spoke with Stuart not so long ago and offered to send him the tool we've made to sort the issues he's having , simple enough job and takes probably an hour or so with minimal strip down but he elected to wait until he brings the chipper back to the UK. The chipper was certainly still being used then... Jase.

No it needs to be there , it keeps the shearbar pushed back firmly against the fabrication. Early 220 machines didn't have it and this could result in debris building up behind the shearbar overtime resulting in the blades touching the shearbar ! This was when it was introduced . Funnily enough it was on a Good Friday many years ago that this was first discovered when I had to go out to a 220 working on the M50 that had started making a tapping noise and that was the reason. Jase.

You may need to but its fiddly and you'd likely need three new gaskets. When they build the Arb 19-28 , one of the first parts to be fitted to the bare chassis is the exhaust as its the easiest time to get in there... the tricky part is where the exhaust flexi and silencer join and sandwich the chassis mounting bracket... Jase.

Cheers Wayne..? Just waiting for Ty's response after experiencing the same issue in France ??

Yes , I did make a point of that in my original post but to be fair , the bolt was most likely seized anyway. Do you think you can get a welder to it , or get someone to get the sheared stud out with a welder ? Jase.

Oh no..... Yes the plain nut is to lock the bolt tight. You are referring to the 12mm bolt in the tapped block that's welded to the flywheel wrap ? (19 mm spanner size). That's why I suggested soaking it in penetrating oil or heating it up.. Unfortunately if it is this then there's no easy solution, you could try welding a nut to the sheared bolt if you can get in with a welder ? The heat alone from welding may be enough to free it off , otherwise the only real option is to cut off the block either with a gas torch or a grinder and weld a new block back on.. Jase.

Terjef, how did you get on ? Jase.

Sorry , I wouldn't have a clue.

Just a bit of a pisser with a 14 as it's a tight fit..

Sounds sweet..?

Terjef, If you remove the main drive belts by winding in the long 16mm bolt that protrudes from the side of the chipper you should be able to move the tension arm ro allow you to gain access to the bolts using a socket and extension. If the shock absorber needs removing it's a simple enough task, you'll need two 9/16 AF spanners to slacken the nuts on either end , it's only a shock absorber so there's no pressure involved.. Jase.

It's just easier to get the shearbars out , clean up all the mating surfaces and check for any 'lips' when they are turned/replaced.. With a crane/hoist it's a quick and easy job to remove and replace the flywheel. Jase. BTW, the blade to shearbar gap should be 2mm.

Oh yeah , we use a home made Allen key . If you have a standard 10mm allen key , cut the long leg off with a grinder keeping it as long as possible then cut this in half and lay one piece on top of the other and overlap it by 15-10mm then weld the two pieces together , this will give you a 'stepped ' Allen key. Then fit it into a 10mm socket, you can then use a power bar and several long extensions and undo the bolts from behind the fuel tank.. I hope this makes sense ? Jase.

Hi Terjef, The top shearbar is held on with two 12 mm fine threaded bolts so you’ll need a 19mm socket . These bolts pass through the back bearing housing and have spring washers and ‘Loctite’ and are torqued up to 100Nm. It’s normal for these to feel tight coming out due to the ‘Locktite’ The shearbars are always far easier to replace/turn with the flywheel removed ! Also , when turning or replacing shearbars , before clamping/bolting in place , convince yourself first that you don’t need to chamfer an edge off that could cause a problem with introducing a step and thus a restriction for material being fed in. This can happen over time due to the actual steel fabrication becoming worn. The vertical shearbar has a single 12mm ‘pusher’ bolt passing through a tapped steel block welded to the flywheel housing wrap , slacken off the plain locking nut and back off the bolt several turns. If the bolt is reluctant to move I would give it a soaking in penetrating oil or get some heat on the block , ‘don’t shear it off as it’s difficult to replace’ ! Now look at the bottom of the vertical shearbar and you’ll see a clamping arrangement. Slacken off the locking nut on the vertical 10mm bolt and release the bolt a few turns. Now , using a 13mm spanner , remove the threaded block that this 10mm bolt passes through. Next you need to remove the chamfered clamping plate that pushes on the base of the shearbar , it’s held on with two 12mm bolts and these can be other hex head or cap head. That’s it , the vertical shearbar is now ready to come out but it will likely be tight . If you look at the top end of the shearbar you will see a hole , about 11mm in diameter, if you weld a stud at ninety degrees to a piece of steel bar and locate the stud in the hole (you’ll need to clean the hole out) and give it a good smack with a sizeable hammer you’ll be able to knock the shearbar down and out. The bottom shearbar is held in with two 12mm bolts , once they are removed this can be knocked up and out of the machine , you can just get a long punch on either end to knock it upwards. This again can be tight and a little awkward. With all the shearbars out , it’s imperative to clean all the mounting faces. Clean the shearbars , we do this using a scraper first and then a soft pad on an angle grinder. With the bottom shearbar , torque the 12mm bolts to 100 Nm. Make sure the shearbar is pushed up tight to the vertical shearbar before doing so , I leave this one loose until the vertical shearbar is tight ! With the top shearbar , Loctite the threads and torque to 100 Nm. With the vertical shearbar , bolt up all the clamping parts at the bottom of the shearbar , tighten the two 12mm clamping bolts to 100 Nm and then tighten the 10mm pusher bolt and then using a hammer and punch , tap the part that you’re pushing with the 10mm bolt , tighten the bolt again and then tap again. Keep doing this until you’re confident the shearbar chamfered clamping plate is as tight up against the shearbar as possible. Now tighten the 12mm pusher bolt in the threaded block on the wrap so it pushes firmly against the shearbar and then tighten its locking nut. Thats it , job done..

Well , he has got it working temporarily by bypassing the No-Stress , at least it can work in a fashion during the current lock down crisis... well done Bricker.. Jase.

I could be wrong but it doesn't sound like the splines to me as he has said the problem got worse as the machine warmed up.. Jase.

An update, this is still ongoing , it's a little difficult with diagnosis as the machine is in NZ. so I will suggest something and then have to wait possibly twelve hours for Bricker to get back to me. It is a petrol engine 15-23 so the system works a little differently and this has the old No-stress system fitted. But we'll get there eventually I'm sure ?

Theres a lot of good info already been given ? . If the revs are around 2450 on the display then it would suggest that the programme is still correct. By the sound of it the hydraulic oil may be contaminated and if it's water then the pump may be on the way out but if reverse is working I would try removing the herschmann plug from the No-Stress solenoid valve to see if you then get infeed as it's energised to stop the rollers.. Sometimes in this situation it pays to bypass the solenoid from the circuit so making sure all of the pumps output goes directly to the feed rollers, you can then get an idea as to the condition of the pump without the need for a flow meter or gauges.. Jase.