Jase hutch

I'd say it started about a week ago..

Funny that, I've got exactly the same problem...?

Good advice above and I would also spend a little time and get that blade to shearbar gap set up correctly. Jase.

Ok mitchel, firstly , there's an override tap under the infeed chute for the no-stress, it should be open , ie the handle on the tap should be in line with the fittings on the tap. If you run the machine do the rollers stop on tick over with a red light and start at maximum engine revs and a green light ? If they lack power you could try turning the override tap lever to see if thus improves the power but be prepared to push the red safety bar into stop if the engine gets close to stalling. Let me know how you get on.. Jase.

Ha ha.....

Hi Dan , yep I'll be there on the stand on Thursday and just browsing on Saturday with Mac the Legend....

The ticket says, 9am-6pm each day..

You could try Bryco , I'm just sat eating lunch and my Bryco mug shows them as a Yanmar dealer.. 01327876166 and ask for Paddy , he's a top bloke and if the gaskets aren't available then I'd ask him for his opinion..

If you're after a genuine gasket you could try 'Engines Plus', they're based in Gloucestershire and are the importer for Isuzu and Yanmar and a great company to deal with..

You are missing the 'extension piece ' which is basically a twisted piece of heavy gauge wire , it pushes over the fuel tap which is buried under the fuel tank and comes out through the rubber grommet in your picture allowing easy operation of the tap. The part will be readily available from any 'Briggs' dealer..

GreenMech had this problem years ago and resolved it by welding in a thicker piece of steel onto all square section discharge chutes..

Ace stuff...?

Wot..are you coming over ..?

GreenMech sell them and Toro are GreenMechs dealer in Australia so maybe give them a try ..?

The torque has been increased to 200Nm with the introduction of the Nordlock washers...

No need to replace the bolts unless something has been through the chipper and caused damage, then it's advisable .. It's recommended to replace the nylocs each time but personally I just go on feel with nylocs.. If your chipper has the 'Nordlock' washers fitted under the nylocs (two part serrated washer) then make sure they go back correctly with the course serrations together and torque the nuts up to 200Nm... Jase..

If you think you'll use the turntable then I'd go with the Quadchip otherwise I would choose the Arb 150..

Out of interest, what make is the chipper ..?

Same for me..

Any news on this chipper yet..?

You're up early Pete..?

Which roller is at fault on your 'bag of shit'...? I guess it's the fixed feed roller which is on the left when looking up the infeed chute ? If you crawl under the chipper , have a look at the hydraulic roller motor as there's a possibility the two cap head bolts have come loose allowing the motor to drop down and the drive gear to come out of engagement with the mating gear on the roller.. If not then you'll need a 10mm Allen socket to undo the two cap head bolts to drop the motor down, slip a thin piece of steel under the feed roller by crawling up the infeed chute (to support the feed roller). Now undo the motor mounting plate underneath by removing the four nuts and one 12mm bolt on the infeed chute mounting flange. Remove the plate and the piece of steel holding the roller up (Which you previously put there). Lower the feed roller and inspect the female drive gear and it's securing bolts..it should be obvious by now where the fault is.. If it's the moving roller then simply remove the two cap head bolts , again using a 10mm Allen key socket and lift the motor clear and inspect the spines on the motor and roller. These rarely fail though.. I hope this helps.....

It sounds like you need a 'control valve end cap'..? From memory they're about £27.. Jase.

That's great , thanks for letting me know Carl..

How did you get on..?