Jase hutch

Shane , if it rubs the chassis can you not space the filter head out from it enabling you to fit that filter ? From memory the filter head simply bolted to the chassis with two 8mm bolts ? And I have a feeling the genuine Briggs filter was stupidly expensive. Jase.

Its a Briggs Daihatsu so a Briggs dealer should be able to help.. Jase.

Give GreenMech a call on Monday , they are in the middle of stock taking but may be able to help.. Jase.

All GreenMech pto chippers are designed to operate at 540rpm.

Hi Soeren, Yes the single belt driven pump is suppling oil to the feedrollers. If you slacken off the pinch bolt and look underneath you should see a 10mm tensioner bolt requiring a 17mm spanner to adjust. Early AT200's had the same set up with the twin tracking pumps mounted underneath whereas later AT200'S had a belt driven twin pump mounted alongside the engine which was a big improvement. Jase.

Hi Soeren , You need to move the tracking pump drive shaft , to do this , look at the two 16mm bolts that bolt the pump/clutch assembly to it's bracket (24mm spanner size) , they pass vertically through the aluminium housing of the clutch assembly. Mark with a marker pen (we use a white marker) where it's sat currently so the clutch assembly can be refitted in the correct position and then undo the two 16mm bolts and slide the clutch/tracking pump assembly backwards away from the engine. Now the shaft can be removed at either end allowing the new belt to be fitted.. then carefully refit the shaft , slide the assembly back to the marker pen marks and tighten the 16mm bolts. I hope this makes sense ? Jase.

Well we have looked amongst old stocks and so far haven't managed to find one I'm afraid. I would suggest giving Bryco a call , speak to Paddy.. Jase.

Sorry it's an LPW4 , if you can post a picture there's a chance there might be one in stock ?? Jase.

4 cylinder water cooled Lister ? I very much doubt GreenMech would have one but a Lister Petter agent should be able to help. I think the engine is a 4LBW but I can confirm this tomorrow. Jase.

Hi Soeren , If you're happy to pm me your address or email it to: [email protected] Then we can post the manuals to you. Regards. Jase.

Another check that the system is working correctly is to remove the yellow wire from the starter motor, go through the countdown and press and hold the start button, you should then hear the fuel solenoid click in and some seconds later the solenoid should drop out and the oil warning should come up on the display because the system thinks the engine should be running and its looking for oil pressure. Jase.

Yes the Oil warning is engine oil. I agree with the problem sounding like fuel but if the engine died and stopped with a fuel problem then 'Alt' would be shown on the display. However i would suggest changing the main fuel filter and in-line filter if there's one fitted and also blow through the fuel line back to the tank. It would be worth carefully checking the fuse box for a bad connection and the multi earth connection that's under an engine mounting bolt. Out of interest, when was the engine oil and filter last changed ? Regarding the fixed feed roller , i would crawl underneath the chipper and check that the hydraulic motor and it's mounting plate haven't come loose allowing the drive gears to come out of mesh . The flow control for the feed rollers should be able to completely stop the rollers when fully closed. Jase.

Are the fuses ok ? There are two inline fuses in the loom behind the battery , one 40 amp is the power to the box and a 20 amp that powers the fuel circuit. Are all the plugs in the loom clean and dry ? Do the pins in the plugs look level and free from corrosion ? Are all the plugs connected ? If Alt comes up on the display it's either an alternator or fuel fault. To discount the alternator, simply unplug it and test , if the problem then disappears it would suggest it's at fault. If there's a fuel blockage then Alt will also appear as a fault code. However if you now have a dead system then you need to check the 40 amp fuse and then carefully bypass the ignition switch by joining the two wires at the switch together using a blade fuse (i say carefully because if either of these wires goes to earth you can blow the circuit board in the junction box). If the display is still dead after bypassing the ignition switch then you need to check in the junction box (square white box by the battery) using a multimeter or circuit tester for power at the heavy red wire marked +v using the small black wire in the centre of the board marked 0v as the earth. Let me know and I'll give you the next steps. Jase.

Soeren, from memory the springs are a fiddle to fit and sorry but I don't recall an easy method. Jase.

Hi Soeren, You need to turn the rollers to find the closest gap , ie, get two blades together. If you're still not happy with the gap , to get them closer you have to remove the moving roller carriage and carefully grind out the slot in the fabrication to allow the moving roller to travel closer to the fixed roller. You can safely get them to within 4 to 5 mm of each other. Jase. P.S. Good job getting it all back together ?

They are a good bunch at Riversa though..? Jase.

Hi Hesslemount , Did Balmers sort the problem ? Jase.

Soeren, Yes the roller shaft has sheared, a rare failure fortunately. Regarding the bearings it's up to you , see how they feel if you rotate them by hand but they normally last and we very rarely change them. The guide bracket , I will check tomorrow but I believe the current version may have two extra bolt holes which would mean bolting back in place and simply drilling two new additional holes through the carriage. I would suggest that when you order the parts , simply ask for the relevant nuts and bolts to be added to your order.. Jase.

Hi Soeren, This failure has occurred due to the guide mounting plate deforming. It's this plate that is the limit stop for the moving roller and not the spring anchor mounting. Please can you post a better picture of the guide plate so I can determine whether the replacement will need modifying to fit your chipper ? The feedroller obviously needs replacing as it's shaft has indeed sheared. The question regarding the motor shaft , yes it's made from much harder steel than the roller spline hence it has survived and still looks good.. So you will need to order a new moving roller and guide plate. Jase.

If the fuel solenoid clicks then try cracking off the union on the injection pump and pump the priming pump to see if fuel flows freely from the union. Jase.

Morning Soeren, If it's only grease then that's good.. I can see the dirt seal has popped out slightly, see if you can push that back into the motor body ? Jase....

Hi Soeren, Easy check is to reassemble and try to turn the feedroller by hand , it shouldn't turn. If it turns then there's a chance the feedroller shaft has sheared in the support bearings ? To dismantle this you need to remove the carriage, remove the circlip from the top of the roller shaft and carefully using a suitable drift , drive the roller down through the bearings . It will become apparent if there is an issue with the shaft. Is there evidence of oil on that motor shaft ? If so , the shaft seals have failed. Jase.

Hi Soeren, Firstly the blade issue , this sounds like the blades have been fitted without brushing grease on the base of the blade. They will come out , well I've not yet had one that won't but it may need a smack with a hammer and punch through the flywheel on the angled edge of the blade. When refitting the blades make sure the pockets are thoroughly cleaned up using wire wool or emery tape and brush grease onto the base of the blade before fitting. Regarding the feedrollers, do you mean the left roller looking in the infeed chute ? If so then I would suggest removing the springs and then using a 10mm Allen key socket , undo and remove the two cap head bolts holding the hydraulic roller motor in place , lift out the motor and inspect the shaft splines for damage and the female splines in the roller. It's possible the roller motor shaft has sheared but rare. I hope this helps. Jase.

"Disc Blade Sharpener - GreenMech" Disc Blade Sharpener - GreenMech GREENMECH.CO.UK Reference price , I would ask your local GM dealer..

Excellent news Ash..?