Jase hutch
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Everything posted by Jase hutch
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They leave the factory with 32 grade but 46 is fine. Where's the oil leaked from ?
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Anyone help with hydraulic valve name and where I can get one please?
Jase hutch replied to swinny's topic in Large equipment
bib is the manufacturer and it's cast into the block. The size of thread and the length from the shoulder above the 'o' ring to the point with it wound fully in should be enough Chris and then I'll compare it to one at work tomorrow.. -
Anyone help with hydraulic valve name and where I can get one please?
Jase hutch replied to swinny's topic in Large equipment
It looks like a simple flow control valve. Can you add dimensions to a photo ? Is the control valve a 'bib' valve ? I think we have the same in stock at GreenMech... -
Mick , is the spring on the moving roller tight enough ? Does it snap back if you try to pull the carriage across by hand or does it feel elastic ?
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That's the display Mick , you need to take the lid off the 'junction box 'which is next to the battery..
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No the RDS junction box is mounted above the battery on top of the infeed chute. Unscrew the four screws and remove the lid and if you look at the circuit board there's a small blue potentiometer in the centre of the board that's adjustable using a small screwdriver. Turn it clockwise to increase the kickback and anti clockwise yo decrease it , it's very sensitive. Also it's best done when the hyd oil is warm..
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Alternator ppr...? Anyone heard of it or know anything about it?
Jase hutch replied to swinny's topic in Large equipment
I would say that if you have a rev counter and can check the actual rpm of the shaft in question, be it engine or flywheel shaft speed , then guess at a pulses figure to input and try it to see what speed is displayed ? For example an alternator on a Greenmech 19-28 mk1 has a pulses per rev of 20.9 if I remember rightly. By doing this if you know the actual speed using a rev counter then just keep trying inputting different pulse settings until the display shows the correct speed. -
Any joy with this ?
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If the No-Stress light works as stated , do the feedrollers infeed even at tick over ? If so then the first thing to check is the position of the override tap ? This is mounted on the back of the chipper chamber next to the No-Stress solenoid valve , the lever on the tap should be in line with the fittings on the valve. If the tap is turned by ninety degrees the feedrollers will infeed regardless on engine rpm. If the tap is in the correct position then check at the nut that holds the coil onto the solenoid valve , there should be magnetism there only when the NS light is green. If this checks out correctly but you still have infeed on tick over then I would suspect a sticking solenoid valve. Jase
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Hello , it should flash red with the ignition turned on and the override button pressed, then go solid red with the engine running and finally solid green when close to maximum revs. Jase.
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The serial plate appears to be where it should on the side of the chassis in the photo. The other photo appears to be of the Vin number , they leave the factory covered with a length of clear tape as in the picture.
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Could be fuel starvation or a fuse box fault.. The fuse box should have two spare unused fuse locations , try swapping the fuses and wiring to those and see if it cures it ?? Jase.
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I'm not offering to do the respray btw..😉
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How do you need help ?
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Redditch had one if i remember and Warwick had three ?? It was a long time ago..
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I remember being involved with the build of that and then routine servicing.
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Am I missing something , doesn't the Brian James have a hydraulic ram for tipping the bed ?
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+1 for LED Lenser.. Quality torches.
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Nice one 👍
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Heard nothing so assume this is sorted ??
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OK, the next thing i would try is to undo the five 6mm bolts that hold the display and remove it complete with the panel it sits on. Follow the cable down and unplug it from its plug by the radiator. Now open the battery door and find the square white junction box and follow the cables from it to find the same plug as the one you disconnected to remove the display and then plug the display in there , this will bypass the extension loom. Try to start the engine ? If it starts then it's likely to be that the extension loom has water ingress in the plugs , you may be able to blow them dry with an airline ? If it still doesn't start then feel free to call me tomorrow on : 01789 400044 , and press the option for service. If you need to call it would help if you have a multimeter to hand. Jase.
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Which ignition box , EHB or RDS ? Mk1 (Isuzu) or Mk2 (Kubota) ? Try disconnecting the yellow (Kubota) or red/white (Isuzu) from the starter motor and then go through the start procedure and see if you get a single click as the fuel solenoid pulls in ? This is easier to hear if you are in chip mode. If the solenoid clicks in then it's likely a fuel starvation issue. If the solenoid makes a fluttering noise then it could be the 20amp fuse or that circuit or a faulty solenoid ?
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GreenMech CM220TMP ?
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Hi , Which engine do you have? Does the maximum rpm read 2450 ? At tickover you should get magnetism at the nut (19mm Spanner size) that holds the coil onto the solenoid valve. If not then remove the Herschmann plug (single screw) from the solenoid valve and check across the opposite two small terminals on the plug for battery voltage ? Do this again on tickover. Alternatively give me a call tomorrow on : 01789 400044, option for service and we can check the program in the RDS ? Jase.
