Jase hutch

Yes the Oil warning is engine oil. I agree with the problem sounding like fuel but if the engine died and stopped with a fuel problem then 'Alt' would be shown on the display. However i would suggest changing the main fuel filter and in-line filter if there's one fitted and also blow through the fuel line back to the tank. It would be worth carefully checking the fuse box for a bad connection and the multi earth connection that's under an engine mounting bolt. Out of interest, when was the engine oil and filter last changed ? Regarding the fixed feed roller , i would crawl underneath the chipper and check that the hydraulic motor and it's mounting plate haven't come loose allowing the drive gears to come out of mesh . The flow control for the feed rollers should be able to completely stop the rollers when fully closed. Jase.

Are the fuses ok ? There are two inline fuses in the loom behind the battery , one 40 amp is the power to the box and a 20 amp that powers the fuel circuit. Are all the plugs in the loom clean and dry ? Do the pins in the plugs look level and free from corrosion ? Are all the plugs connected ? If Alt comes up on the display it's either an alternator or fuel fault. To discount the alternator, simply unplug it and test , if the problem then disappears it would suggest it's at fault. If there's a fuel blockage then Alt will also appear as a fault code. However if you now have a dead system then you need to check the 40 amp fuse and then carefully bypass the ignition switch by joining the two wires at the switch together using a blade fuse (i say carefully because if either of these wires goes to earth you can blow the circuit board in the junction box). If the display is still dead after bypassing the ignition switch then you need to check in the junction box (square white box by the battery) using a multimeter or circuit tester for power at the heavy red wire marked +v using the small black wire in the centre of the board marked 0v as the earth. Let me know and I'll give you the next steps. Jase.

Soeren, from memory the springs are a fiddle to fit and sorry but I don't recall an easy method. Jase.

Hi Soeren, You need to turn the rollers to find the closest gap , ie, get two blades together. If you're still not happy with the gap , to get them closer you have to remove the moving roller carriage and carefully grind out the slot in the fabrication to allow the moving roller to travel closer to the fixed roller. You can safely get them to within 4 to 5 mm of each other. Jase. P.S. Good job getting it all back together ?

They are a good bunch at Riversa though..? Jase.

Hi Hesslemount , Did Balmers sort the problem ? Jase.

Soeren, Yes the roller shaft has sheared, a rare failure fortunately. Regarding the bearings it's up to you , see how they feel if you rotate them by hand but they normally last and we very rarely change them. The guide bracket , I will check tomorrow but I believe the current version may have two extra bolt holes which would mean bolting back in place and simply drilling two new additional holes through the carriage. I would suggest that when you order the parts , simply ask for the relevant nuts and bolts to be added to your order.. Jase.

Hi Soeren, This failure has occurred due to the guide mounting plate deforming. It's this plate that is the limit stop for the moving roller and not the spring anchor mounting. Please can you post a better picture of the guide plate so I can determine whether the replacement will need modifying to fit your chipper ? The feedroller obviously needs replacing as it's shaft has indeed sheared. The question regarding the motor shaft , yes it's made from much harder steel than the roller spline hence it has survived and still looks good.. So you will need to order a new moving roller and guide plate. Jase.

If the fuel solenoid clicks then try cracking off the union on the injection pump and pump the priming pump to see if fuel flows freely from the union. Jase.

Morning Soeren, If it's only grease then that's good.. I can see the dirt seal has popped out slightly, see if you can push that back into the motor body ? Jase....

Hi Soeren, Easy check is to reassemble and try to turn the feedroller by hand , it shouldn't turn. If it turns then there's a chance the feedroller shaft has sheared in the support bearings ? To dismantle this you need to remove the carriage, remove the circlip from the top of the roller shaft and carefully using a suitable drift , drive the roller down through the bearings . It will become apparent if there is an issue with the shaft. Is there evidence of oil on that motor shaft ? If so , the shaft seals have failed. Jase.

Hi Soeren, Firstly the blade issue , this sounds like the blades have been fitted without brushing grease on the base of the blade. They will come out , well I've not yet had one that won't but it may need a smack with a hammer and punch through the flywheel on the angled edge of the blade. When refitting the blades make sure the pockets are thoroughly cleaned up using wire wool or emery tape and brush grease onto the base of the blade before fitting. Regarding the feedrollers, do you mean the left roller looking in the infeed chute ? If so then I would suggest removing the springs and then using a 10mm Allen key socket , undo and remove the two cap head bolts holding the hydraulic roller motor in place , lift out the motor and inspect the shaft splines for damage and the female splines in the roller. It's possible the roller motor shaft has sheared but rare. I hope this helps. Jase.

"Disc Blade Sharpener - GreenMech" Disc Blade Sharpener - GreenMech GREENMECH.CO.UK Reference price , I would ask your local GM dealer..

Excellent news Ash..?

Hi Bill , I have emailed a picture..?

The hinge is part of the chute on the new design ?

I'll ask the question , i saw the prototype last week..

This morning..? Picture to follow..

5 Shires with the infeed chute now fitted..

"Eco 150 TMP - GreenMech" https://greenmech.co.uk/products/eco-150-tmp/

The bonnet switch is on the engine cover, near the hinge that's in front of your left foot when standing on the platform , the cam should release the plunger on the switch when the bonnet is shut.. Jase..

Hello Soeren , I would post the instructions for programming the RDS on here but there's a lot to it and I would rather talk you through it first and then email the booklet out to you should you need to refer to it in the future. Can you give me a call tomorrow morning on : 01789400044 and then select the option for service ?? Hopefully it will be a quick and easy fix ? Jase..

I'll chase them up.. Jase.

Did you manage to sort this ? Jase.

Hello , When you say there’s no power going to the control box , do you mean that you’ve actually tested for power in the junction box or do you mean ‘the display doesn’t light up’ ? Jase.