Jase hutch
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Everything posted by Jase hutch
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GREENMECH CHIPPER (ISUZU ENGINE) OVER HEATING
Jase hutch replied to AKERS TREE SERVICES's topic in Maintenance help
Just wondering if you managed to sort this..? Jase. -
As said earlier, that inner race still needs to be removed from the shaft... Jase..
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I'm guessing it's an EC150/25D, Lister engine looking at the spacer tack welded to the shaft..? If I'm right then you'll need an SF40DEC bearing , make sure it's an 'eccentric locking collar type bearing.. Jase.. If I'm wrong on the model then what is it..?
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Regarding the part number for the bearing , what model of chipper is it..? Jase..
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GreenMech fit check valves on the 19-28 Safetrack for this very reason...
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Yep as it's only a lynch pin holding the wheel on.....
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Is it a simple 'pressure relief valve ? If so couldn't you refit the valve and put a gauge in the system to check it's operating at the correct pressure ? It looks adjustable to me....
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Sorry ive only just seen this, give GreenMech a call on : 01789400044 and I can talk you through it .. Jase..
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Chipper/grinder hour clocks, can we believe what we see?
Jase hutch replied to Mick Dempsey's topic in Large equipment
I would say , don’t trust the hour meter. The old standalone hour meters used to fail and if the hour meter is built into the ignition box / computer then the chances are if this gets changed the old hours won’t get programmed into the new box, even though most have the facility to do this.. -
It would have had the ‘no stress’ fitted from new, some just live without it if it fails.... Jase..
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Do you know an auto electrician ? I can email you the wiring diagram.. Jase....
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Glenn, If it's an EC150/25D, ie, Lister engine 6" then it should only have one light on the dash panel which is the 'charge light ' and the 'no stress' LED on the 'no stress' box, which appears on the dash panel.... Jase..
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Hi Glenn, did you see my reply in the 'Maintenance help ' section.. ..? You need to do the basic checks first as a new 'no stress box for your chipper is in the region of £500....... Jase..
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Ty, have you enquired whether a folding chute could be made available....? Jase..
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Do the feed rollers pull in on tick over ? If so then have a look under the infeed chute by the no-stress solenoid valve, there is an override tap there with a lever , the lever should be in line with the hose fittings , if it's turned 90 degrees then the rollers will infeed on tick over..... You might find that if the lever has been turned to the incorrect position , when you put it to the correct position they won't feed in as there is a fault the previous owner was trying to cover up.. If this is the case , try the above to see what happens to the no-stress light.. If you get a green light , you should then have magnetism at the no-stress solenoid valve (under the infeed chute) , checked on the nut that holds the coil in place.. Jase..
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Pete's probably still in bed.... Glenn , which engine do you have fitted ..? What happens to your 'no-stress' light..? It should flash red with the ignition turned on and the override button pressed. It should then be a solid red/orange when the engine is running. Finally it should turn green when the engine is running at maximum revs.. Jase..
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The CS100 will lock onto its trailer, only a padlock is required..
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How often does hydraulic oil need changing
Jase hutch replied to Woodworks's topic in Maintenance help
GreenMech recommend changing the hydraulic oil every 1000 hours.. -
I would do the same for the first start on a cold day........
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Ok, I’ve looked into it and I will p.m you.............. Or, you could source some suitable rubber and make your own up..? Jase..
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GreenMech offer a sharpening service.. I don't know the cost though.. Jase.
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I'll look into it and let you know.... Jase..
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If the bolts are tightened correctly to the new torque of 28Nm , they should come out ok, we don't lubricate the threads but what we tend to do before removing the bolts is to give them a good smack with a broad punch and then using a ratchet fitted with the T40 torx bit we use a piece of steel about 600mm long ( something about 30mm × 10mm should suffice ) with a 10mm clearance hole drilled through one end and using a long 10mm bolt dropped through this hole and then through one of the bolt holes in the 'cassette' used for monting it back into the chassis. We can then apply pressure onto the ratchet and bit by pressing the length of steel across the top of the ratchet , if you can keep the bit engaged firmly in the bolt head then it will always come out.... I hop you can follow this ......... Jase..
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I found that just drilling the heads off with a decent drill bit and some cutting fluid was actually quicker than trying to weld nuts to the knackered bolt heads.. Just drill the heads off with a drill bit larger than 9mm and lift off the blade and wind the remaining thread out by hand. Don't forget that when tightening the new bolts , the torque is just 28Nm..
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Those blades definitely need sharpening or turning if the other side hasn’t been used........ For those that don’t know, the torque setting for the bolts has now been reduced to 28Nm.
