trigger_andy

There’s been an endless stream of positives. This is just the correct icing on the cake.

I appreciate the input. Its good to get a reality check on how to go about this. I guess I'll have to scrap the full length board idea then. I'll speak with Logosol and see what they say as regards to what the machine can handle. Ive a whole house to do, so need floorings, skirting and other mouldings. Ive a bunch of 6" x 1" oak boards that have been drying for two years now. They are still straight, but a bit cupped as can be expected. If I do shorter lengths then Id have to figure out how to do the T&G on the ends.

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I can see this becoming more of a reality. CH3 Multi-Head Planer | LOGOSOL WWW.LOGOSOL.CO.UK <p>The Logosol CH3 Multi-Head Planer is the next-generation planer/moulder, developed and manufactured in Härnösand...

I was planning on running them 90 degrees to the white wood, which is obviously 90 degrees to the joists below that. But if 5.5m lengths are gonna move to much then I might be better off going parallel to the white wood and then they’re 4-4.5m long instead. Decisions decisions.

That might be another option Mike. I was hoping to have them air dried within a year. Hmmm. A mate has a make-shift kiln built in an insulated shipping container with heaters and dehumidifiers running. Might get them in there if it speeds up the drying process.

I installed 28mm white wood T&G flooring earlier this year. So the Oak will be going on top of that. I could bond the oak to the 28mm I guess? Id need to clean the wax off though. I think Id be about £3000 per room for the solid oak flooring. At that kinda prices buying a 4 sided planer is not that bad of a deal. Id get the skirtings down as well.

These guys mill their own Oak and make their flooring from solid oak boards and have boards up to 230mm wide. So it must be possible. Prime Grade European Solid Oak Flooring | Buy Prime Grade Solid Oak Flooring Online from the Experts at UK Timber WWW.UK-TIMBER.CO.UK Prime Grade Unfinished European Solid Oak Flooring is stocked by UK Timber, one of the leading suppliers of...

Regarding drying I was thinking a year in the barn then a few months in the house before machining. Not sure how Id put one dead straight edge on a board other than passing it over the planner then through the thicknesser. Not 8 foot lengths, I was planning on 18-19 foot lengths. I could go the other way on the flooring and bring it down to 14 foot I guess? But if this is going to be next to impossible then I'll have to re-think everything. Do you not rate the Scheppach HF-33 Spindle Moulder I have then? It has a power feed. Not keen on the router option.

A favn is an old Norwegian measurement used in the firewood industry. Since so many of my collogues have small farms and forests some process and sell firewood on the side. So I often hear the term. I think its related to the word fathom as its also a word used to measure sea depth (so I hear) I think a Favn (in he firewood world) is 6 feet x 3 feet x 6 feet.

Looks like one favn to me. edit, maybe half a favn.

I was thinking of milling some 5.5m lengths of oak for floating floor boards. They'll be long enough that I'll not need to tongue and grove the ends, just the sides. I was thinking 8" wide boards would look nice. It should be nice Pippy Brown Oak as well. Ive never made Flooring before so its all a bit new to me. So if I go for the 8" does anyone have any recommendations on how thick to mill them for a floating floor? I was thinking 35mm and planning them down after drying to 28-30mm. At 35mm how long should I leave them to air dry? Whats the best route to go down for adding the tongue and grove? I really like the look of Logosols new 4 sided planner and they've designed it with the Miller in mind, but at £7k plus vat I cant see me getting one. So with that kinda outta the question at least in the short to medium term whats the other options? I have a Scheppach HF-33 Spindle Moulder with a power feed that Ive never used, would this be suitable for the dimensions of oak I plan on moulding? Or would I be best seeing if a Joinery outfit would do the job for me? I expect the Oak to look like the other trees I've milled from the same Estate.

Obs a roux. Life’s to short to take shortcuts.

Had a couple of kilos of fat scallops so made creamy garlic sauce with half a bottle of wine on top of some pasta. Was bloody good

I was quite annoyed when my supplier went from £35 a ton to £45 when I asked for 6m lengths. 🤣

I really like my wee 181. Constantly amazes me what I can get it to do. Due to its lightness I’ll sooner pick it it up over my 034. Saying that I had my 034 with an 18” bar burried to the balls in oak and it just keeps spitting out the chip.

Cheers Les. Very nice of you to say. Back on the 5.9m Norway today.

Temporally fitted and extension to my mill on Thursday as I needed some longer lengths of Timber for my outbuilding. I’ve a bunch of Norway Spruce sitting in 5.9m lengths so I milled up some 10”x2” Joists. Very nice timber, clean and almost knot free. Perfect for a shed. [emoji16] Justme would get his panties in a bunch seeing me crawl home with this load. 🤣

Just do what I do then. 🤣

Maybe not todays milling, but will get milled very soon. 24’ and 23’ oak logs. Should be some nice pipping in at least one of them.

Mind if I ask how much you made per slab?

Ask for Tegid.

Well you’d not go wrong with getting the guy Stephen sold his business to. He does as good a job as Stephen.

I used to send to Stephen as well. I now send them to the guy he sold that side of the business too and trained up on his old machines. First class service so far.

There’s gas axes on Rigs, just in very controlled environments. Welding takes place all over and where needed. We sometimes Solder connections on the Drill Floor. Which is fun on critical connections on a string thats moving up and down a meter in relation to the rig. The strings not actually moving, the rig is. But it sure looks like the string is going up and down.