trigger_andy
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Everything posted by trigger_andy
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I still send all my bands off to be sharpened and set. I’ve got a sharpener too, I just need to get it set up. 🤣
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Always get the biggest you can afford. If you don’t you’ll only regret it later. My mill can take a 30” log but that’s pushing it to its limits and is not fun. If I knew the B751 would have paid for itself within 24 months I’d have pushed the budget and bought the B1001. And that’s mostly personal use and some customer jobs. A larger mill will comfortably handle a log that a smaller mill will take but struggle with. Generally bigger mills can take more attachments should you need them later, I’m not that clued up with Woodlands though. I think the few Bob saved up front is a false economy.
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Yip, if someone wants it. Or I can make good money ripping it into Mantles I might. We’ll see. I do need a coffee table though.
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I’m yet to buy a Delorean. [emoji16]
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Certainly is Pippy Oak. 1.7m long by 1m wide and 5.5” thick. Open to offers. 😁
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Ah ok. Actually, it would make a very nice Roubo Bench top now you mention it. Its the right thickness anyway.
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Qualification Info on Chainsaw mill
trigger_andy replied to Gadgetman24's topic in Chainsaw Carving Forum
A line you must be well aquatinted with Leslie. [emoji16] -
Makita twin 18v chainsaw vs Milwaukee M18 Fuel?
trigger_andy replied to doobin's topic in General chat
My bro has the Makita. Still going strong 2-3 years since he bought it. Paid for itself in the first year in fuel saved. -
Ive just been offered a small space in a local Stove Shop where I'll be able to sell Mantles. He sells at least 4 mantles a week and his cost price for 1200mm x 150mm x 100mm untreated and rather mass produced are £170 each. Id kill for more standing dead Oak like this to pump out a bunch. This lump was gonna be a coffee table, it might now be a bunch of Mantles. Id get 8-9 outta it. Thats at least £1200 for a wee lump of 20 year dried oak.
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Mill it. We just milled a similar Oak and it was stunning,
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Good points but it would be good to know from the Op if we’re actually just talking about the last inch or two or an issue starting further back than that.
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This is how I normally end a sizeable log.
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I don’t think anyone is suggesting the Saw is at fault but potentially how to improve saw safety to better protect the user from him/herself. We have PPE and the brake for the very reason of protecting the user from himself so why not look into improving on the designs if it’s at all possible?
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I’ve not really looked into how it’s activated but green timber can hold an awful amount of moisture, you’d think that would set it off if that was the case. Keeping in mind the tests I seen did not even break the skin on a hotdog.
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Ok cool. A fresh pair of eyes can sometimes see things from outside the box. But I fear that if the big guns in the industry has not found a solution yet there might not be one and we’ll continue to have Darwin Award contenders for some years yet. One bit of tech to look into is the Table Saw Attachment that can be retrofitted to just about any table saw and as soon as it senses contact with flesh is jambs the blade instantly without even breaking the skin. The blade and system is goosed and both need replaced but you get to keep your fingers. I suspect it’s activated by electrical current so might never cross over to ChainSaws but could be worth looking into.
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What’s your interest in this? Academic or financial?
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I had to do the very same with my brother yesterday, over keen with the sledge hammer. But I cant help thinking that you'd get a similar effect with a ladder on the top and still banging the wedges in as you go. Of course the rigidity of the ladder will stop it being as severe, but I think you'd still see it.
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That’s what I do as well.
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Might be uneven chain sharpening. The straight edge when used to remedy this is preventing it happening again. Have you tried a fresh out of the box chain?
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Qualification Info on Chainsaw mill
trigger_andy replied to Gadgetman24's topic in Chainsaw Carving Forum
Very rarely do I just sit an Alaskan on a log and mill away without first using a Chainsaw in a conventional way. Even if you don’t need to use a chainsaw prior to Milling you really should have a good grasp of how to use a Chainsaw before you throw what will most likely be 90cc plus Saw on a log. -
Not if it’s Chinesium. Opps. Should have read more than just the first few and last post. 🤣
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These seem to be woodworm free and I hope they stay that way! My brother will get his cut to size later this week. I’m at least a year away from that.
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I got excited over them all. Kinda christened them. 😁
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Finally got around to milling/re-sawing the Ash I bought over a year ago. Half for me, half for my Brother. We both plan on using the slabs as kitchen worktops. Slabs where all around 90cm-110cm wide x 3.3m long. Was worried they would be rock hard and the mill/084 would not manage. Well, I’m glad to say it was a piece of cake. I also comfortably managed to mill all four slabs without a re-sharpen. This was with the STIHL 46RCX ripping chain.
