Sawchip

Il put in my 2 penny worth .... High performance engines with tight operating needs will put the most pressure on oil and the mix used so there is where the top oils come into there own i feel. If i told you that i have done tests on the 1 ltr mix bottles and found many to be out ..and some up to 16% in favour of the petrol amount before oil you might want to see what you are getting if you mix that way. You dont get a choice with Aspen 2 st mix (50.1) unless you add more oil..and i wager most dont...Im no expert on Aspen and im not about to suggest any problems with using it. I personally mix and recommend 40.1 with a quality pump fuel plus high grade oil of your choice for all the machines i have and service for others. The 550..560 along with other stratified charge saws regardless of Auto tune as Spud said have a small fuel charge to pass through the crank case (smaller volume than in the past to) so i see that it is likely to be useful to have a little more oil to help out in the bottom end pro rata of the charge volume. The bottom end and any lube issues are reported and have /is being addressed by Husq so i believe. For me there is no issue running 40.1 regards the tune as i set the saw to the correct max free rpm with a Tac and make sure there is a slight 4 stroke. I like 40.1 on brush cutters particularly due to the amount of time they spend flat out ....same as a saw set up for milling.

We posted together...figured there was a way Paul

The spec on the 362 365 372 shows a option of .325.. so i would think there will be a rim sprocket clutch that takes the (small) 19mm rim sprocket. If you can only get the clutch drum for 22mm then i would say that 3/8 is the only option.

Have a try with full chisel .325 chain with 7 pin sprocket plus a 18 in bar. Nothing odd there ..? ..Well if you go from a non lo pro 3/8 set up of any sort you will find the 3/8 7pin and the .325 7pin are different diameters(.325 is smaller) .You get a gear down going to .325 from 3/8 that will allow the saw to hold a higher rpm in the cut allowing chain speed to stay up plus you wont pull the saw down into its 9000-9800 Torque zone as easy. A subtle and cheep change that you may like ...give it a go.

I assume there ..Way..more than you would think hence the guessing game. I bought a genuine INT 574 oil filter at 28 +vat last year so im saying much more. £125 inc vat as a stab.

Spray transfer on a mig (with someone who knows what there doing) can give that finish. Neat int it

That pic was in July....this one is in Sept after the timber you see was all cross cut into 8ft lengths as i winched it out (with the ps 420). I keep my kit clean and up together hence the saw still looks in good order. It was bought as a general duty saw for small timber and hedge work but i gave it a go on the extraction job to see what it was like...it was up to the job.

Just thought you may want to know.... 8 months on and the Ps 420 is proving to be a real useful saw for general work about the place. Not been any problems .

A very happy camper...thanks Andrew

That muffler is a bit stronger than standard I hope !

Shhhhhh....im saving on timber

Nothing seems to stay in its normal place now..Xmas ,easter,halloween ....and of corse the movable feast that is "Nov the 5th" . Or is that the week before or after , who can tell. I guess its all about maximising profit and footfall ...Not a fan myself.

Hears another idea for you ....Ps 420 sc as a saw by the chipper is a nice option..plus Iv had a few Climbers remark that they would be a "nice option for some limb work up top". They run a 15" .325 full chisel combo real well.

I figure the pressure/vac pump is controllable as you can ramp up to where you want to stop plus i would be putting a fresh carb kit in there anyhow.

Another thing you could try after soaking in WD-40 or carb cleaner is to assemble the carb on the pump side...take off the needle arm and connect a pressure pump to the fuel line nipple. You are doing what you would do to test the pop off pressure of the needle and it may move the needle out with about the same pressure you would use in the test. 20-25 psi is safe pressure to try i think.

Unfortunately as the 346xp OE or NE are still worth good money !! there are a few "Bitza" saws about and some are being portrayed as "Genuine". The other one that is also ripe for "Bitzaration " is the 357 xp. I know by getting it wrong and ending up with a saw that was described as "Genuine" and had been cobbled together with about the worst "none" OEM top end iv ever seen !! I learnt a valuable lesson . Im very glad you got to give the saw the once over and were able to ascertain all was Perhaps ..."Not as it should be" .

Just a little edit: I missed out the word ..Early ..before OE 45cc. That should have gone......"decomp where the early OE 45cc did not." My error.

Further to the advise on looking over a 346 xp NE 50cc....the NE should have grey top case clips if right. The cylinder should have a decomp where the OE 45cc did not. This is the main thing that you HAVE to be clued up about as there are nasty low grade top ends with a decomp fitted that give the impression all COULD be well. As Spud points out there is more to it than that so look for the Mahle detail but also be advised there is a good after market replacement top end made by Meteor. Although not OEM it is a good alternative but should have a downward haggling opportunity for you. In my opinion as the NE was introduced 2007 onwards it should have its OEM top end on it really or its done a LOT of work ,not been well kept , had a top end fail ..etc . It is not easy to find cheep ( North of £300 is very common) good domestic user saws that will mostly be a good bet regards to life left in the saw. Hope that adds to the pot of info for you.

I very much doubt you will have any big problems ...Long term is a relative thing mind you. And lets face it..if you really want to keep a saw going once its no longer produced then you get a parts saw or pick up parts from ebay. I run 200 series Husqvarna's amongst other makes and still find parts. None of us have a crystal ball so i would get what you fancy IMO.

If you want a new saw and will consider the usual bar nut system then I recommend a Dolmar PS 420 sc. This saw is a big leap forward in power, anti vibe,and build quality than the Stihl 230 ..IMO .Mine pictured is now run in and was easily capable of dealing with the timber you see it sitting on. AJS chainsaws...Shavey will sort you out and is a good chap to buy from.

Personally I dont see the problem in taking off the muffler as this would give you a better look at the piston, rings and the port edges themselves. If you have a concern then this is where i would be going. PS.. if under warranty then dealer first showing them the view down the plug hole.

What hole is the pic taken through ?

Barrie , your P message in box is full...cant reply to you. May phone you instead. Simon

Have used one of these a bit...there mostly 2 ton lift and hydro drive. Low mast hight ( triple) for buildings and over all they get around well. Pis is not me but a example i found. They come in 2 wd as well as 4x4 , gas and diesel.Manitou 4RM20HP.

In case you have not got the manual ..