Sawchip

As you will know Husqvarna require a "Dealer portal "(Husqvarna's main frame connection ) to do many operations when installing components and firmware upgrades so in reality its not so easy now without a willing Manufacture Dealer . Stihl on the M tron have those real special leads and software for there plug in Diagnosis so I can not see this getting any more accessible if one is not a Dealer . I just hope that the EFI system is so trouble free that it wont need much intervention in "its self" Can live in hope i suppose

Its been mentioned many times that the similarity between automotive progression and the outdoor power market seems to be following the same pattern. Carbs ...to electronic carbs (m tron/Auto tune) and on to fuel injection. The middle development ground that was not agro free in the automotive world could be thought of as M tron/auto tune . EFI is now a very well sorted system in most cases in our cars so im hopeful that the injection system on the Sthil saw should be a marked increase in agro free performance . Lets hope any early niggles have been addressed with the stone saw and the lessons learned pass seamlessly into this interesting new saw. Now that will of corse mean that the reliance on the Manufacturer Dealer network for diagnostics will go the same way as the Garage trade has gone. It seems that Stihl and Husqvarna "Mainly " are choosing to go down the electronic control path for the future while others "at the moment" have found that is not the only option.

Marketing phycology plays a part to i would say Peat ,along with the saw culture in general over there . They probably think we are odd using (in there mind) "short bars" of 15-18 inch on 50 and 60 cc saws . You see the bar rating published on the saw sticker with the USA saws ....Iv seen the 550 xp Domarl 5105 and the 346 ne (to name a few) with the normal length of 20" bar . I personally disagree with that choice ..but then again im not a American.

28" is the USA spec on the 562 ...make of that what you will . Regardless , putting a 28" bar of any sort on the that group of saw seems counter productive to me. A slim and a fairly light saw spoilt in balance and performance by a bar size normally put on a far bigger dedicated felling saw.

If you remember where the 562 is mostly sold (and has been for a long time)..... the 28 inch (supposed ! ) rating may make sense.

Spud has more or less taken you through the things to start with in a saw that is NOT in front of anyone who is giving advice. This is always the iffy part as things often dont get mentioned in recounting the problems. So further to that..lets take it that you have a spark that is ok and its looking that NO fuel is something to get sorted before anything else. The choke flap ...IS it being activated when the filter IS in place? You changed the carb ? is it new? or 2nd hand ? Have you set it up to basic settings on the L and H ? if so What? You changed the fuel line and impulse line ..was it a genuine fuel line ? is it bent tight on its way to the carb ? SOMETIMES...the non genuine ones close up if in a tight bend. Is the impulse line on the nipple from the cylinder after you put the saw back together? Thats a list for you to go through and see where your at before you open up other things.

That could be a risk if you went down the Ebay rout of corse...as with all things there are risks and ways to minimise those risks, but speaking from personal experience I have not had a issue . Of corse, doing what your happy with is what its all about.

Sell it...folks like the 250 so you should get a half decent price . You then get the 420 ..simples

Sorry no I was comparing the 450 and the 545. Slight difference in power, noise and chain speed but otherwise don't know. The 545 is the same platform as the 550xp but with less rpm ..no rev boost ..no full circle crank stuffers ..all orange body ..BUT.. still a auto tune saw. Think of it as a De Tuned 550 xp. The 450e is a different platform and grade of saw altogether (lower) and is not auto tune.

A few points in context of your choice..... 1) ..As you say you are not going to give this saw "commercial use" then your choice to discount any given make of saw "perhaps" should not be made based on results "purely" from Pro users who can put more hard Hrs on a saw in a month than you might in a Yr. A broad feedback of results may be useful. 2)..For you maybe theres good logic in going for the more simple designs of saw and the most you can possibly stretch to ...and then a little more ...if you want a longer life span. 3)..Simple = the chance for "YOU" to do running maintenance for this ...expected "out of a shed and start up first pull" as well as less main dealer Tech needed to plug in and diagnose. 4)..Sharp chains are your and the saws friend !!!!!!!!!! 5)..Get your fuel mix and time of storage right...no keeping fuel raw or mixed for months on end ! 6)..Think about a good secondhand saw...more for less if you can be sure of its condition. One other thing...Makita are Dolmar's ..parent company.. since 1991...Dolmar are "Still" very much a saw designer / maker in there own right in Hamburg Germany. "Some" lower spec saws in the range "Could be assembled " in a Makita/Dolmar owned plant other than Hamburg...these are not low quality saws ether!. Makita have more recently started to come up with designs themselves in Japan. Hope you find something you are happy with.

Dolmar Ps 420 sc should cover what you need.

Have you used TFR much ? ...only pics of the underside , what is the top like? I have had a.. VERY FEW.. items of work galvanised that turned out poor due to the initial stages of prep to de grease and remove mill scale. The Zinc must "bond" to the material properly so it must be free of contamination. If you paint on Zinc you need to use a "mordent" to give paint a chance to adhere to the zinc....TFR is highly alkaline and could act similar to a a Mordent and .."may".. cause "some" damage if high in concentration or washed from the top only leaving it to sit /hang underneath. Pure conjecture on my part. Are you on the coast ? been in salt water/carry things that have been in salt water much ? Just asking to eliminate.

What have you found with Champion plugs ..some get confused with the heat ratings between the 2 brands but is there another thing you find ?

The real world thing is already under way.....

Have been following this launch for a while now plus information from contacts in Norway and the US. There is a lot to take in regards to the design and changes from the 550 560 . I know of some positive results from actual working conditions through dealer trials in the US ..Marketing is all in the game Rob..you know that being in business ..bigger the business ..bigger the noise i guess . Be interesting to pick one up in the future .

http://hqendurance.azurewebsites.net Take a look here....

So they don't worry about the play in the bar slot anymore ? Setting the bar to snug up on the studs in one direction (doing down cuts seems the common choice ) takes away some need to go stupidly tight on the bar nuts . Do you know what there being told is "The right way" these days then Steve

I cant say for sure if your change to Aspen has caused a loosened carbon ingestion giving you ...all.. or ..some.. of the damage...But, i do know of information in Norway with some older saws doing this when changed across...3 and 5 group Husq so not old old only. Im saying its a possibility ..NOT..a certainty . I tend to mention this to customers when asked . Ps..that pot should clean up as far as i can make out from the pic. Vac and Press test it all first though to be sure what your up against.

Outdoor Power Equipment ......

[ATTACH]222128[/ATTACH] One is never enough Steve ..twice the pleasure ...

Nice one Barrie ....that first bit of info on fuel is what British Petroleum say in the link i was trying to sort. The aspen story is better put by those more in the know (you) than me.

Fact...2 stroke engines dont run for long on a mix that will not provide the lubrication they need.. Tried three times to copy in a link to BP page ..nothing doing. Google ...shelf life of petrol .. and you should find the PDF i tried to link.

Regardless of the right or wrong of stale fuel ...(I happen to be in the "dont use it after 60 days Max camp") ,why bother leaving usable fuel in a machine when you are not using it ? put it in another one you are using and use it when its needed. Dont see the point of storing fuel in machines you said you come to using after a lay up. Solves any issues on the stale fuel debate one way or another if you tip it out and make use of it. Cant make use of it...Mix less so you dont have much left.

And maybe a cooked saw without the cooling needed ...lol

I sniped the down tag without busting the Pilot screw (stupidly i went on to pull the ally bit of..needn't have bothered) ....If you do what Honda say then you brake the head off !!! and extract the stub with a rubber tube as a driver !! Yea ok...if you have another jet screw maybe. I did try the long screw driver but admittedly after dislodging the breather tube and finding that lifting off the tank worked quicker than messing with the air box/carb to put it back ..i decided to do any movement to the screw from there if i needed . Il have a go on another some time but now i know 1.5 turns seems to be about spot with luck it will just be the idle screw needing movement ..that.. i could get at easy.