Sawchip

I suppose..... If you had a run up to the log to be split then I can see how the moving mass of the D7 would come into play rather than just the drawbar pull / traction from a static start... You would have a D7 hammer of sorts if you started before the log and you would get much more force to start with until that force reduces to what the D7 can then maintain carrying on pushing. Your vid shows you edging forward under control to start the splitting so I guess the D7's pull/pushing traction force of near 12 ton is enough to do the job. I think you would have to be down hill to add to the force using some of the D7's weight .

Its normal to rate the splitter power on the rams capacity and the pump used max pressure allowable. Yes..this can be a moveable feast as im sure you know hence how the power of some splitters seem to be higher than another of the same rating. Not a bad rule of thumb though should be.... "Rams rated tonnage generated " .."at rated Psi "..will give the potential ,as long as you supply the ram with the Psi and flow it needs. Your D7 will have a "Draw Bar " rating ...not a bad place to start with a estimate do you think?

Best sounding splitter I'v ever heard !!

It shouldn't ...BUT... the quality and ..CARE.. of the PDI can have much to do with the person carrying it out. Garden kit summed up why they are needed and "Most" machinery makers "require" there suppliers to undertake one to keep the warranty in order. Sympathetic treatment of a new saw to ...at least! ..allow some heat and lubrication to build for the crank bearings /piston bearing and bore by pulsing the throttle for a short while before then going to a short full throttle and taking a TAC reading is my own preference. I also favour and carry out some test cuts to be sure of the running condition of the saw as well as help to bed in the ring/rings. Starting and then straight to a "prolonged" ...Full.. throttle is something I would not do myself!

That MS-150 of yours spend a bit if time idling with the brake on ?

Always appreciate my Rayburn for the constant background heat it gives out and means the house is not chilly first thing....plus it keeps my coffee pot and cup warm. I also like the ritual of upkeep of this 50 plus yr old simple bit of tech.

As ever with things like this it very likely will come down to ...want and cost. If you want one and have the money then you will buy one . I can remember the grumble about the Discovery when it was launched and how some said it "Isn't a proper sort of Landy " ...Well that can be discounted now surly !! I have had a range rover and a 90 in the past and would like one of ether now , however there isn't the money to buy the older sorts or the newer sorts. Want and cost...that mostly what it takes .

@celi .Im with AWD and Spud overall on this one due to the nature of the saw you are trying to learn on/fix. A "good 346 XP -OE" (that you should have if it has no purge bulb) is a valued saw and has a few things that can cause issues on the intake side if not addressed. Taking a carb apart due to poor running and or storage for cleaning is all well and good but it is best practice to put a rebuild kit in the carb (in case you didn't) at reassembly . Vac and pressure test equipment is in my opinion "a must" while sorting out this saw , plus it allows you to check carb metering "Pop off pressure" for the new needle that you would fit as part of a full carb refurb. By all means have a go at sorting out the saw yourself ...BUT.. take into account the need for the saw not to have a air leak from the intake (a common problem with the plastic intake clamp on some of the 346 xp saws) or anywhere else for that matter. It may pay you this time to heed advice and have it professionally diagnosed and repaired.

They are the same machine apart from the colour. Both of these are with very happy customers (1 gardening service )and in there 2nd/3rd season without any issues.

Stihl 4 mix engines have a auto decompression system on the cam. You need to look at the valve end of the motor as you may find issues with the valve collet/collets or the drive off the cam. The bottom end should be further looked over to double check on any broken parts . You have a major clean up /check over to do anyhow before you put it back together if it turns out to ..actually..! be worth it.

I can throw some light on both Makita MM4 engines and using aspen 4 in them. I personally have a MM4 powered blower that I run on Aspen 4 that is used anything between ..1 and 3hrs a week depending on the time of yr as well as using it as a workshop /yard blower. The MM4 engines are by no means a heavy or underpowered alternative to a 2 stroke version and there fuel economy is better. This has a cost benefit when using aspen 4 due to using less fuel overall. I have several other customers who use the Makita /Dolmar MM4 motors on blowers and brush cutters. They say that they are more than happy with the weight, power and torque from these motors along with the lack of exhaust fumes plus the fuel economy obtained.

How about some sort of conical friction drive in your cordless that you push into the exposed pull start hub (bigger than the hub hole at the widest part of the taper ) . No chance of things snatching at you as could happen with a socket.

Will it fit the space I have...what is going to be the fuel , wood or multi...output needed...build quality...price.

Both Makita/Dolmar and Honda are ..True 4 stroke .. engines , in as much as they have a sump and only use straight petrol in the tank . All Stihl 4 mix engines are not like that. They use the 4 stroke cycle but do not have a engine oil filled sump and you need 2 stroke mix as fuel. Have no fear as to the power to weight ratio with Makita /Dolmar or Honda 4 stroke motors ...they are more or less the same weight as the similar 2 stroke class . Best thing is the torque you get all the way through the rev range so offten full throttle is not required. The Honda range can be a bit more money than the Mak/Dol range . Vibes are down to the design of the machine and the AV used . I look after a few Honda GX 4 strokes new and older and looked after run sweet... This is a Dolmar that was supplied for moderate duty.

McCulloch Cart saw engines... Legendary in the USA and used for racing..if its your sort of thing ! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RXeccIqca3k

My 3 stoves ...2 multi fuel ( Arrow and a Hamlet ) and 1 early Villager C wood only stove (no longer used and replaced by the Hamlet). The older designs like the villager C having primary air only and in some cases a flue butterfly unlike the current designs of stoves having secondary air as well would be the most significant change be it a multi fuel or wood only stove. Control of burn along with gasification style of combustion is why the Villager (still in good order after 20 +yrs i must say) was removed and the Hamlet solution 7 installed in its place. Sure ... a dedicated wood only current style stove will have a bigger capacity firebox pro rata of the case size. I was in a different position to some in as much as the choice of wood only vs Multifuel never came up due to the reclaimed nature of the Hamlet ..namely ..Free ?. You still need to remove some ash now and again burning on the base of a wood only stove , maybe a little more straight forward if it has a grate, be it Multifuel or wood only. I allow a bit more ash build up when on wood, just not the amount of riddling needed to keep a anthracite fire burning sweet with the air underneath. My Rayburn is on anthracite so its useful to be able to swap 1 stove (other end of the house) over in the very coldest conditions for a constant 24 hr heat output with no night slumbering on wood . As with most things that are not a dedicated item they maybe a bit of a compromise ...just not to much of one in my situation.

This information comes from a German living in Germany. There should be at least ...some accuracy ... involved with this information posted in Feb 2018.

If you didn't watch or missed ..Jeff Goldblum and the Mildred Snitzer Orchestra ... and.. Mavis Staples.. you missed (in my opinion) a real treat.

A common tool ......Under £20.00 and will act as a stress tester too. Well worth getting if you work on small engines.

IPL for 288xp.. coil shows as 02 but the blue second part is the same part number as 42/242. If iv got it right , its the second blue part that is being looked for ??

Part number seems to be the same on the 42-42 specials blue unit and the 288 blue unit ...501-81-28-01 . Might be possible to track one down instead of a 288.

Your first looks like the non Mtron saw...second is the right one for the Mtron

Better one.....

Try this pic of a ms362c M tron ...best definition i could get.