Sawchip

1.5 is where it stayed in the end after i loosened up the carb and set the jet then slid the ally restricter back on. Tuning on a IZY while running is not practical due to not being able to get to the top of the screw with all the obstructions. First carb iv needed to get that factory set and caped jet out to bring a IZY mower back to A1 running...hope its the blooming last.

Im not far off then....i stupidly !! forgot to do it up and count the turns after cracking off the cap.

Barie.... have you got the Pilot jet setting from seated ? Honda IZY GCV 135 ...think its 1.5 turns back out but not 100% . I dont have access to Hondas data sheets. Had to take out the jet and re-install to clean .Thanks for any help. Simon Number 1 on the pic...

Another 6 cylinder that floats my boat ... [ame] [/ame]

Spent a HR or two on one of these ... [ame] [/ame]

Nether are as high HP in standard form as your 044 but the 357 (4.4 hp) is a good 18" bar saw and the 262 (4.8 Hp) is fine on a 20" as well. If your putting Hrs on a saw the spare parts situation becomes more of a consideration I guess.

Depending on what you want the saw for and how much use you will give it. "The older choice" .......A 1992 onwards 262 xp has all spring AV instead of rear rubber mounts and spring front. The non de comp saws ..are often ..KS.. cylinders rather than ..Mahle. Some find the KS a little more zippy with its smaller combustion chamber . Spare parts for the 200 group saws are a bit more of a challenge than for my more modern suggestion. "The newer option"....357xp. Near as dam 60 cc , plenty of go, full spring AV (top one off the cylinder), not to heavy and spare parts are better to locate. A later one (2007 onwards ) should get you a saw with the steel intake band clamp from factory rather than plastic one( upgrade is no big deal) and you dont want to leave a ..Auto De Comp if fitted (they have been known to leak) ..on a saw if your doing a intake upgrade. Might as well plug the feed from the cylinder and put a manual de comp in the cylinder. Both will do you proud ...down to what you want the saw for, what you can find and how much you want to spend.

It is true that the 5105 runs very strong with out a "Kitty Kill" . As has been said above ...plus i will add that the none cat muffler = "Much" less heat held in front of the cylinder.

There you go Mick ...that should be the SQ grind chain.

Mick..I think i can see "Stihl" on 1 chain . Are they both a Stihl chain ..3/8 pico ? 1/4 ......? dont know what you like on your saws .

Take a look at the bottom right of the main pic..you can see the back view of the semi chisel chain...hard to tell from the centre views of the chain isn't it . If you sharpen your chains with a grinder rather than a file then the bottom chain is just closer to the profile you end up getting from most normal chains you buy. Sq ground off the peg chain is not something i have seen offered .

If you use a round profile file on the bottom one you will end up with the top ones profile...use a square file method or a grinder (a flat disc will give a square grind and a rounded gullet bottom ) and you more or less keep what it is now.

Your choice ...if you put that chain on a grinder (other than a real fancy one) then you will keep that grind shape... if not then you will turn it into the top one. in my umble opinion sir

That bottom one looks as though it has more of a "Square " grind to me. Top one has the rounded grind like you get with a file sharpen.

Thanks for the info

Sure...i to figure the roller mower will spend its time on a lawn that someone likes stripes on and the 4 wheeler can do some rough cutting as well as the lawn grass. I just wonder if the roller has a "in between" speed of the wheeled version. 1st on the 4 wheeler is slow and 2nd is fairly brisk.

I wonder why the roller Kaaz pro version only has a single speed ....are they a bit higher geared do you suppose ?

Eeeear ..my Kaaz Pro has 2 speeds ...I want me money back

A better close up of the clutch side cover with that label on it ?? I see a CE mark and there must be clues on it. Shindaiwa..Redmax comes to mind as along shots.

On top of what Stubby said (nail on head) ..the filter is supposed to keep the fuel line under the fuel ...regardless of the position of the saw.

Cant give 1st hand on the forester as the 2 scoobi's iv had were different. I do know several folks with the forester though ..1 with a XT. Mere mortals quick and sure footed...thirsty on petrol as you would expect, tyres choice is important if you want good all round performance. They.. MUST ..be properly serviced..(oil change critical) . On the better side of average for reliability.Drive train is pretty tough (there are a few sorts ) On top of this info My local garage (friends for 35 yrs and used by myself) look after 5 at least with out major drama so you wont need to do the main dealer thing. Service record is King !

Running on Choke "Can" mean that you have a fuel starvation issue . Old metering diaphragms and impulse pump diaphragms "dont always" give away there "true' condition so I to (along with others) suggest you put a full carb kit in to eliminate what "could be " a week action of the fuel pump diaphragm.Once that is in and you make sure the metering needle is ok and the forked/tab top arm is set at the correct hight .....you can then set the carb up to the "basic settings" for the L and H needles (if fitted) .

Yup..I can see 3 hrs is a dead loss ! The shop proved it ran to you ? "die on throttle" sounds as though impulse and or the carb is not back together right after they took it apart to put bitz in it ?

Hummm...Very odd. I take it you have packed it in for the night...Tomorrow after leaving the saw somewhere warm see what you get. Take it that the saw will run but just not proper the last time you tried it? Logic says without a liquid cooling system there really is 2 posable places moisture can come from so a warm dryer place to test in the morning should show /not show something. Spotted it could be Echo option while you posted...Remembered you had Echo.

New fuel or not.. it sounds from your description that moisture is involved some where. "Running a bit Funny"..."starts poorly"...points to some moisture in the mix . I would be looking to eliminate the fuel that is in /was in the saw and pop some fresh mix in the saw. Establish a datum by getting different fuel that you see working in another saw. Its not imposable to get wet from the air causing a emulsion ...but to have a long term affect ...more likely to having a fuel issue of some sort I feel. Cant be much though or hydraulic lock would be posable. My 2 penny worth anyhow . Edit: Stihl saw? Echo?...they spit some fuel back towards the air filter so you could get the gunge showing there .