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Bunzena

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  1. I don't grow from seed. Japanese Maples hybridise very easily so rarely come true from seed. Pretty much anything you see will be vegetatively propagated - generally by grafting on to an Acer palmatum 'stock'. So most of mine have been bought as plants. I'm sure you know this - but most plant nurseries will carry a reasonable stock of the 'bread and butter' varieties. If you google 'acer specialists' you will find those nurseries that carry the more interesting ones. If you really want to be adventurous - the Dutch have the most unusual and widest stocks. But I don't know if Brexit has affected what they can and will supply. Hope this helps.
  2. Box spanner. Bought this a few years ago. Cheap as chips and decent quality. Silverline 589709 Box Spanner Metric Set 8-19 mm - 6 Pieces : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools
  3. We have one - and agree with Conor. There is a safety switch under the seat that stops the engine if the blades are engaged and there's no-one sitting on the mower. If that switch is damaged or the connection is lost - it will 'fail safe'. Look there first.
  4. There may be two things happening here. The cold, dry spring with very late frosts have caused trouble with many of my Acers. Most were quite late for their first flush of leaves and then many got frost-burnt. In normal years, there's a second flush of leaves after the first are damaged. But the very dry weather meant that this wasn't very strong - and the plants have become very 'stressed'. This has meant one or two have succumbed to Verticillium and others have had branch-tip-die-back. Quite a lot like the last 2 pictures above. With any luck your Acer will battle through and find it's feet and recover. Two other things to consider longer term. With my Acers in pots [have 15-20] - I always add grit to the compost. In my experience Japanese Acers need moist but free-draining soil. If their roots are constantly wet - there's often trouble. Some varieties are very sensitive to waterlogging. There's a beautiful variety called Corallinum and the only way I can get that to grow is a 50:50 mix of soil and grit. Personally I wouldn't feed it right now - and I'd let that soil dry out a bit - then water again. More controversially, I never use Ericaceous compost. That applies to Japanese Acers in pots - but also those I've planted in the ground. This is something I was told they needed - but I have experimented over the past 20+ years and it's not true, in my experience. What I have found is that if you use Ericaceous compost - and over water - it will go 'sour' very quickly.
  5. My gut feel is that some kind of pathogen has got in and shut down the vascular system - starving the tree of any moisture. The twigs are already pretty dry and there's very little 'green' under the bark when scratched with a fingernail. Whatever has happened has only affected a few of the many willows on the land. We have other Goat Willows, Common Willows, some Willow Hybrids, Weeping Willows and some Red Willows - and these seem to be unaffected so far.
  6. It's a good thought - but the pond isn't lined - so this one is not short of water. And another - a Common Willow that has died is right on the edge of another pond.
  7. Fantastic result - especially given the way that education has been interrupted this year. You might find yourself with a more than vested interest in The Boat Race, a couple of years from now if she carries on this way!
  8. Two pictures of the Goat Willow. There's no die-back - they just die. Sudden and completely. The only thing I have seen that's in any way comparable is Phytopthera - but then there's often some peripheral die back before the tree succumbs. You can see that this particular tree is one the edge of water. No other plants or trees nearby have been affected. As we all know - the weather this season has been weird. We had quite heavy frosts up to the third week of May and a very, very dry spring. But we've had colder weather and drier spells before. All the trees affected were healthy last year and showed no signs of distress.
  9. Understand that Willows are often not the most longest lived trees - but we've had a number die-off unexpectedly this spring. Common Willow and Goat Willow. All mature'ish trees [25+ years old]. None are close to each other. Planted in a variety of habitats [close to water, sheltered, exposed, private land, none adjoining any neighbouring properties]. The pattern seems to be the same. Just as they reach the point of leaf break - they just stop and die. No obvious mechanical damage, no obvious signs of fungus or insect damage. Slightly disconcerting. Have I missed any reports of a disease afflicting Willows? Anyone else noticing this? [We're based in Kent].
  10. From memory - from top to bottom: Acer Palmatum Corallinum Acer Palmatum Mikawa Yatsubusa Acer Palmatum Summer Gold Acer Shirasawanum Autumn Moon Acer Palmatum Tsuma gaki Acer Shirasawanum Palmatifolium Acer Dissectum Crimson Queen Acer Palmatum Katsura [Spellings can be a bit variable....apologies in advance!]
  11. Acer Shirasawanum palmatifolium. Sadly lost it this winter.
  12. Nepia - that's a real beauty! I find this variety grows quite strongly and has some lovely autumn colour - especially if there's a dry spell. Oranges and yellows. If you plant one of the really dark red varieties nearby - it will really pop. Maybe a Dissectum like Crimson Queen?
  13. That looks like the kind of damage I get on my Acers when they are short of water. Is there any link between leaf damage and dry spells?
  14. Bought the Hikoki battery nailer last year [gasless]. Absolutely brilliant. Tons of power, no jams [fired 10,000+ nails] and well balanced.
  15. Overview of Making Tax Digital - GOV.UK WWW.GOV.UK

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